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II 



THE SKIN 



Its Care and Treatment 



BY 

EMILY LLOYD 



TEACHING EVERY DETAIL 
OF THIS IMPORTANT WORK 
1\ A SIMPLE, CONCISE AND 

PRACTICAL M \ N N E R 



FIFTH EDITION 



K E-W R ITT EN A N D 
m:\vly [LLUSTR VTED 



Mcintosh Battery & Optical Company 

CHICAGO 






Copyright 1914 
McIntosh Battery & Optical Co, 



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JUL 24 1914 

0CI.A374963 
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DEDICATION 



The urgent demand for a new edition of this work 
giving the latest methods of technique has prompted the 
author to make this revision. 

In view of the fact that many of the older methods 
have become permanently established, it has been unneces- 
sary to alter a number of the chapters. 

New subjects have, however, been added, with several 
chapters devoted entirely to a specific description of the 
latest methods of giving the treatments, thus bringing the 
instructive features up to the minute. 

To make the work of the Cosmeticians uniform 
throughout the country by constantly keeping before their 
vision the necessity of living up to the highest standard is 
the aim of the author, and if this little volume can be of aid 
in this effort, it will add much to her happiness. 



INTRODUCTION 



It has been but a few years since the woman who de- 
sired to improve her personal appearance and had courage 
enough to say so, was placed in one of two classes and 
branded as "brainless or immoral/' 

Women who assisted her in her attempt at improve- 
ment were regarded with a mixture of scorn, amusement 
and possibly a bit of tolerance, because they could dress 
the hair and cleanse it and do manicuring. For, strange 
as it may seem, these last three forms of work have always 
been tolerated and even regarded as necessities. 

As a natural consequence, though, of the prejudice 
against any attempt to improve the face, those who wished 
to improve as well as those who assisted in the work cov- 
ered their movements with the cloak of secrecy in order to 
avoid the storm of criticism sure to be directed against 
them. 

In the meantime, however, interest in all kinds of im- 
provement has been greatly increased. 

Landscape gardens have replaced scraggly lawns. 
Fireless cookers, electric washing machines and patent 
dish washers have revolutionized household duties. 

Automobiles have displaced horses. Wireless teleg- 
raphy gives us news items days before ordinary methods 
could have secured them. 

Dietarians have discovered just what kind and how 
much food we need in order to keep the internal organs in 
good condition. 

vii 



viii INTRODUCTION 

Physical instructors are at hand to see that the circu- 
lation is good and the muscles are developed. 

Mental culturists teach us to make life what we want 
it to be instead of howling at calamities that never happen. 

Small wonder then, that as a necessary adjunct to all 
the other improvements has come this hearty, healthy pub- 
lic demand for the work that will really produce personal 
improvement. 

Intelligent patrons demand intelligent operators. 
Hence, in order to administer judiciously to this demand we 
must have for this purpose women who are willing to give 
sufficient time to obtain the training that will teach them 
how to proceed properly. 

Every poorly trained, ignorant operator who embarks 
in business is an injury to every other woman in business, 
for she aids in producing a bad impression about all of this 
work even though the impression be limited to her own 
particular community. 

By raising the standard, compelling registration as 
well as state examinations, and exacting an educational 
qualification, there will be found everywhere a better class 
of women in this work, and as a consequence a growing 
interest in every community. 

This wave of improvement need not submerge the 
woman already in business who has not been fortunate 
enough to have the requisite instruction. If she is honest 
enough to admit her deficiencies and wise enough to over- 
come them, instead of combating the tide she can swim 
with it until she reaches firm land. 

The work of personal improvement really includes 
everything pertaining to the well being and comfort of the 
outer woman. 

By this we mean that the woman in business should 



INTRODUCTION ix 

have a knowledge of what may be accomplished in all of 
these lines. True she is neither encouraged nor instructed 
* to assume any of the treatments that may more safely be 
left in the hands of the medical profession, and is always 
advised to refer every doubtful case to a Physician. 

On the other hand, just as she should understand the 
anatomy of the skin in order to give intelligent treatments, 
and as she should study the nerve, blood and muscular sup- 
ply of the face and head, that her manipulations may be 
given correctly, so too, every woman should know of the 
things outside of her own province that may be of assist- 
ance to her patrons. 

One person may need nothing more than to have the 
complexion improved or the hair loss stopped. The next 
may desire something more serious, such as treatment for 
obstinate acne or perhaps advice regarding a scalp trouble 
of long standing. 

The same person, however, often wants information 
about remedies for defects that lie beneath the skin, or 
regarding some things strictly in the surgical realm. 

The conscientious operator cannot attempt this work 
herself and neither can she wisely disclaim any knowledge 
of it. If she has been properly informed she will be able 
to explain intelligently just what can be done. 

Keeping up with the newest ideas while maintaining 
all of merit from the old methods should be the thing about 
this work that will keep it of constant interest. 

No profession presents greater possibilities. It re- 
mains for each one who enters this field to take advantage 
of the ever increasing demand for honest, capable, inter- 
ested operators who do conscientious work, give reliable 
advice, and believe in their methods as well as in them- 
selves. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 

PAGE 

The Ideal Woman in Business 15 

Giving characteristics of the successful woman, her methods 
and her personality. 

CHAPTER II 

Sterilization. 22 

How to sterilize and why — What it means and which pro- 
cedure is rhost practical. 

CHAPTER III 

The Skin and Its Divisions 35 

Telling you just how many layers the skin has, and why you 
ought to know something about them. 

CHAPTER IV 

Skin Glands and Their Diseases 38 

Among other things this explains why some skins are oily and 
some are dry, why some hands perspire and others do not. 

CHAPTER V 
Lesions of the Skin 44 

CHAPTER VI 

The Use of Colored Lights 48 

For forcing in creams or ointments and for relieving pain. 

x 



CONTENTS xi 

CHAPTER VII 

PAGE 

Electricity 57 

What it is — Names commonly used to show Electrical Meas- 
urement--. Each term is carefully explained, making the 
subject one of interest. 

CHAPTER VIII 

The Faradic Current 81 

Or commonly known Electric Current — and how to use it. 

CHAPTER IX 

The Galvanic CuRRENt 90 

This is the current that is used for all small operations. 

CHAPTER X 

Use of Electric Needle ix Removal of Superfluous Hair 

and Tattooing the Eyebrows . 07 

CHAPTER XI 

How to Remove Moles, Port Wine Marks, Warts and 

Wens 116 

CHAPTER XII 

Cataphoresis as Used in Instantaneous Bleaching, Allevi- 
ating Pain and in Producing Local Anaesthesia . . . 125 
Forcing solutions into the tissues by electricity for bleaching 
the skin. 

CHAPTER XIII 

Preparation of Face, for Massage. Use of Electrolytic 

Cup 133 



xii CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XIV 

PAGE 

Facial Massage 141 

How to proceed — Method of giving the movements (fully 
illustrated). 

CHAPTER XV 

The Proper Use of Cosmetics 157 

CHAPTER XVI 

Wrinkles — Their Cause and Treatment 163 

How to prevent them as well as how to remove them. 

CHAPTER XVII 

Cosmetic Surgery in Treatment of Deep Wrinkles, Folds, 
Bags and Wrinkles About the Eyes, Hollows and 
Creases and Small Pox Pittings 168 

CHAPTER XVIII 

Remodeling Ears, Excising Scars and Making Dimples 

by Cosmetic Surgery • 175 

CHAPTER XIX 

Reshaping the Nose, Altering the Expression and Appear- 
ance of the Mouth by Cosmetic Surgery 182 

CHAPTER XX 

Treatment of Blackheads and Milia 190 

» 

CHAPTER XXI 
Acne 198 

Or Pimples, kinds, cause and method of treatment, y' 

CHAPTER XXII 

Eczema . 217 

Of face and scalp, suggestions for relief and directions for 
treatment. 



CONTENTS xiii 

CHAPTER XXIII 

PAGE 

Treatment of Chloasma, Sallow or Muddy Skins and 

Freckles 223 

CHAPTER XXIV 

Treatment of Oily and Stippled Skins, Scaly and Dry and 

Flabby Skins, Tan and Sunburn 231 

How to remedy these conditions. 

CHAPTER XXV 
Facial Treatments 239 

CHAPTER XXVI 

The Hair 245 

How it grows, what it needs for health. 

CHAPTER XXVII 

Shampooing the Hair 251 

Hints on shampooing hair with detailed instructions as to 
best methods. 

CHAPTER XXVIII 

Care of the Scalp 262 

CHAPTER XXIX 

Common Diseases of the Hair and Scalp . 270 

Which to treat and which to avoid. 

CHAPTER XXX 

Scalp Treatments .••'.•..■ 291 

How to give them for results. 

CHAPTER XXXI 
How to Furnish the Treatment Rooms 2gg 



FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS 



PAGE 

Table Irrigator and Sterilizer Combined 28 

Showing Use of Therapeutic Lamp in the Treatment of Acne.. 50 
Removal of Superfluous Hair. The Operator is Wearing Glasses 

with Binocular Magnifiers 103 

The Use of the Positive Electrodes after Electrolysis, for the 

Purpose of Reducing Inflammation 107 

Removing Mole by Insertion of Negative Needle 115 

No. I. Forehead Movement. Moving Skin under the Fingers. 140 
No. II. Work about the Eye, Being Careful to Hold Flesh 
Firmly with Fingers of One Hand While Other Two 

Fingers Perform Rotary Motion 142 

No. III. Downward Motion on Nose against Blood Pressure.. 144 

No. IV. Wringing Motion to Shape the Chin 146 

No. V. Stroking Motion on Thin Neck 148 

No. VI. Plucking Motion to Develop Cheeks and Harder- 
Muscles 150 

No. VII. Reducing Fat Chin 152 

No. VIII, Developing a Thin Neck 154 

Acne Vulgaris 200 

Use of High Frequency in Case of Acne 210 

Use of High Frequency in Removing Mole on Chin 212 

Use of Synger 256 

Scalp Movement. Holding Fingers Firmly and Pressing in 

Alternate Directions 265 

Scalp Movement. Using All Fingers in Rotary Motion 267 

Use of High Frequency for Alopecia Areata 271 

Use of Ideal Scalp Electrode with High Frequency for Scalp 

Treatments 277 

A Practical Facial and Shampoo Booth Combined 304 



CHAPTER I 

THE IDEAL WOMAN IN BUSINESS 

She is not only a possibility but she really exists — 
does this ideal woman in business. Some of us have met 
her. All of us have heard of her, and the wisest of us not 
only wish but try to be like her. 

Of course she is a philosopher, because she has learned 
that life is not what you think others should make it, but 
what you make it for yourself. 

She never tells you how happy she could be if 
this, that or the other thing had not happened. She just 
says decidedly, "I am going to be happy any way," and 
she is. 

She may have experienced a great deal of trouble — 
all well-balanced characters have passed through trials. She 
probably has her due amount of sorrow — the average per- 
son needs something of the kind for development. She 
may not have the best of health — but — if she is the right 
kind of woman, she will be a positive inspiration to all 
with whom she comes in contact, because of these verv 
drawbacks that she has overcome. 

Goldsmith tells of the happiest man he ever saw. Just 
to see him made others more content. Yet this source of 
joy to all who beheld him, was but a poor slave — deformed, 
lame and wearing a chain — singing at his work from morn- 
ing until night and never forgetting to thank the Lord that 
"his soul was white even if his body happened to be 
black." Small wonder then, that this humble being became 

15 



16 THE SKIN 

an object lesson to all who saw him and an aid to those 
who read of him. 

Cheerfulness is said to be a natural attribute, but like 
the beautiful flowers in a garden that are crowded out by 
weeds, it, too, can be dwarfed by the development of un- 
desirable qualities until one might feel it had been left out 
of the composition of some people. 

Hence the necessity for cultivation and constant effort 
on the part of those who are inclined to be morbid, dissat- 
isfied, suspicious and cranky. 

The great sympathetic nerves are closely related. When 
they carry a "worry" or a "temper" message to the brain, 
the nerves reaching to the stomach also become affected, 
indigestion walks in and the corners of the mouth pull 
down. 

Day by day these messages may be sent until indiges- 
tion becomes chronic dyspepsia, and the face so doleful that 
after one. look one wants to turn away. 

The successful woman in business must be cheerful. 
If it is easier for her to be sad she should consider that she 
is "mentally" ill. If she can find no bright side to her life, 
then she should "polish up the dark side." The exercise 
will help her. 

Several bright women who had in some way acquired 
the "worry habit" formed a "Smile Club" a short time 
ago. 

Each woman pledged herself to smile at her own vis- 
age before the mirror three times every morning before 
breakfast, to smile at least once during every meal, to smile 
every time before replying to any thing that would ordi- 
narily have angered her and to give one smile to every 
person with whom she came in contact during the day. 

The change in the dispositions of the three charter 

U> 



THE SKIN 17 

members became so evident that now the club numbers 300 
and is constantly growing. Any one may begin. Why not 
try it now? 

As one of the members said, "One feels so ridiculous 
at trying to give an angry or hasty answer after smiling at 
the person that usually there is a laugh instead. Then, too, 
when one smiles at people they smile back, and some way 
the whole day is made easier/' 

Any woman can belong to the Smile Club. Any wo- 
man can accomplish that which she wills, but she must 
will strong enough. Muscle is only developed by exercise, 
not by ease. So instead of complaining at the apparent 
hardships in the path she has chosen, the woman in business 
should rejoice at the opportunity for bringing about devel- 
opment of the mental muscles and the formation of new, 
better brain cells. 

The cheerful woman is always sure to win out, for 
she fails to notice the dark cloud ; she is too busy looking 
for the "silvery lining. ,, She has a number of other quali- 
ties, too, of which I am sure you will wish to learn. 

She is a restful kind of person — quiet in manner, se- 
rene of face, destitute of nerves and so filled with self- 
confidence that if she sweetly suggested the amputation of 
an arm the patient would at least be tempted to consider it. 

She is not talkative ; "restful" women seldom are ; and 
yet some way when you have left her she has managed to 
impress upon you a few very positive facts and you feel 
really inclined to do exactly as she suggested. 

She inspires you with confidence because she has no 
fear. She knows what she can do and you know that she 
knows it, and there your troubles end. 

Another excellent point about the ideal operator is the 
way she discourages you from talking while you are having 



18 THE SKIN 

a treatment. She does not tell you her troubles. Conse- 
quently she won't let you talk about yours and get your 
muscles out of order while your face is being manipulated. 

If you ask too many questions, she will usually stop, 
look at you reproachfully and say: "Unless you relax I 
cannot do a thing for you; just try for a moment, close 
your eyes, and I am sure you won't feel like opening them 
again until the treatment is ended." 

Some way you feel like doing as you are told, and 
when the treatment is over you do both feel and look like a 
different person, thanks to the quiet as well as the work. 
You have not been regaled with the latest gossip, nor have 
you repeated any yourself. You have been having a thor- 
ough treatment, free from hurry, or worry, and if you are 
a wise woman you will appreciate it enough to go back 
again at the first opportunity. 

The very fact that you have not been compelled to 
learn "how hard the work is, and how poor the pay is, how- 
many symptoms of various troubles some one has, or how 
mean the Manager is," counts for a lot. You have secured 
a treatment without having to listen to a list of woes, and it 
is small wonder you like it. 

There are many other good points about this ideal 
operator that may perhaps be enumerated for the benefit 
of those who might wish to copy h?r example. 

She is always scrupulously neat, dressed in plain 
gowns on the street, and invariably enveloped in a clean 
white apron when at work. Not a sign of jewelry, such as 
bracelet or rings, will be in evidence, because anything of 
the kind would be out of place. 

She is low voiced and sympathetic, and is so interested 
in you and your various ailments and in the members of 



T H E S K I N 19 

your family that you just know she is especially interested 
in your case. 

She is considerate, too, helps you off with your wraps 
and just as carefully helps you into them. 

She knows what you ought to do to keep your skin and 
scalp in good condition and tells you all about it, so you 
can accomplish things at home if you have the proper arti- 
cles to work with and know how to use them. As a conse- 
quence you get just exactly what you need, because there 
is such a satisfaction in having the right thing. 

When she places you in the massage chair she sees 
that you are perfectly comfortable before she begins work, 
then notes that the light does not shine in your eyes, has 
the head band arranged carefully and the towels tucked in 
securely so that the gown is protected. 

Everything is in readiness and all the necessary arti- 
cles in the booth before the treatment is commenced, so 
there is no mad rushing about for the electrode that should 
be there and the cotton and gauze that was not cut. Every 
detail has been looked after before your arrival. 

Then in the treatment she remembers you may be a bit 
particular about odors, so she does not eat disagreeable 
things for lunch, nor does she use strong perfume. She 
also avoids leaning over the chair so that you g^t her breath, 
as some operators carelessly do. Instead, whenever she is 
doing work where it is necessary to bend her head over she 
keeps her face slighly averted. 

She is always punctual for your appointment, never 
keeps you waiting even for a moment, unless the appoint- 
ment before was a little late, and in that manner she has 
been unavoidably delayed. 

Even then she does not seem hurried, but some way 



20 THE SKIN 

gets through with the treatment and keeps you good-natured 
even though the time is a little less. 

She never says anything unkind to anybody. Mention 
a competitor. She may smile, but she won't say a word. 
You will notice that she does not discuss her other patrons 
with you, or tell you anything that they have said. 

Occasionally she does tell of a remarkable result ob- 
tained by the use of some treatment, but she never men- 
tions names, and you can't coax her to do so. Consequently 
you feel quite comfortable about your own case. 

She never feels that she knows everything, but is will- 
ing to learn. In fact, she is constantly searching for some- 
thing newer and better, and every time she takes a trip she 
bears you in mind and drops you a card so you will know 
of the new things, too. 

Another agreeable thing about this ideal operator is 
that she won't talk to other patients or go to the telephone 
or be disturbed in any way while she is waiting on you. 

She may have troubles, but you don't know about them, 
for she is a monopolist where sorrow is concerned and does 
not believe in forming a syndicate of patients to whom she 
can unfold each separate grief. In fact, she always seems 
content and happy and you feel it rests you to be near her. 

She never discusses prices with you or tells you how 
cheap some one else is doing the work, but just keeps at her 
own business and gets what she asks. 

The list of her virtues may seem inexhaustible, so 
after recounting those that are most prominent, we won't 
say a word more, but will hope fervently to see more 
people adopt some of her methods. 

A woman of this kind is bound to become known and 
certain to succeed. She is so lovable, so filled with opti- 
mism, so sincere in her feeling toward her own work that 



T H E S K I X 21 

she invariably attracts towards herself the patrons who can 
best help her to make the kind of a reputation she desires. 
She is not to be envied, for none of these virtues are 
at all proprietary. The most sincere compliment you can 
show her will be to at least attempt to resemble her in some 
details. The more operators who are found like her, the 
sooner will all the work in the country be what it should be, 
honest, beneficial, and last, but not least important — decid- 
edly remunerative. 



CHAPTER II 

STERILIZATION 

No subject is of more importance to the operator than 
a knowledge of the proper care and sterilization of her 
instruments. 

Few subjects are less understood. Mention sterilization 
and in nearly every case the operator interviewed will ex- 
claim, " Sterilize, indeed we do; why, we put every comb 
and brush into gasoline every day." Attempt to explain 
that gasoline is not a disinfectant and that every comb and 
brush must be properly cleansed every time after being 
used and immediately a storm is produced. The lady usu- 
ally regards your desire to aid her as a reflection upon her 
personal cleanliness. 

You may perhaps meet another operator who looks 
fairly intelligent and gently commence the subject by re- 
marking that "few places are really sanitary." Before you 
have time to catch your breath she will indignantly retort, 
"You certainly cannot say that of our parlors, every comb 
and brush is washed with soap and water after each patient." 
Again you wearily attempt to explain that still a further 
process is necessary and once more you are assailed until 
finally, tired of trying to make people see things as they 
should be, you refrain from doing anything more in the 
argument line and just pray for an investigation by the 
board of health. 

The germs of diseases that we must constantly fight 
are present everywhere. Though we may not be afflicted 
by any trouble, ourselves, yet on our skins, in our hair, 

22 



THE SKIN 23 

under our finger-nails, everywhere we find germs that 
lodge there harmlessly until there is an abrasion of the skin. 
Then, unless the tiny soldiers in the shape of the white cor- 
puscles are strong enough to throw off the poison and repel 
the invaders, we have an infection, which may be quite a 
serious affair if we happen to be in a rundown or debili- 
tated condition. 

It is for this reason that such care is taken in the use 
of antiseptic measures. The term "antiseptic" means 
against poison or sepsis. 

Any chemic agent that will cause the death or retard 
the growth of a germ is called an antiseptic, a germicide 
or a disinfectant. Articles that have been subjected to treat- 
ment by any of these solutions are called antiseptic. 

When heat has been used to destroy germ life as in 
boiling instruments or in the steaming process for gauze 
and bandages the articles are called "aseptic." 

In many of the parlors throughout the country not 
even the slightest precaution in the way of preventing in- 
fection by the use of antiseptics is even considered. 

Gasoline is used to cleanse brushes and perhaps a bot- 
tle of some mild antiseptic, such as boracic acid, may acci- 
dentally be found, but as to really knowing the principles of 
sterilization or practicing them the average woman will be 
found very lax. 

Fortunately for public safety, state laws are now be- 
coming strict and an investigation of the sanitary condi- 
tion of the various shops will soon be the universal prac- 
tice. 

In giving a list of antiseptics here, care has been taken 
to choose only those that are effective without being objec- 
tionable. Lysol, carbolic acid, and many others that might 
be used, leave an odor that makes a shop smell like a hos- 



24 T H E S K I N 

pital. For this reason, and also because it has been chosen 
by the various Boards of Health in the greater number of 
countries, I have chosen formalin as the most practical 
disinfectant for the average shop. 

ANTISEPTICS THAT MAY BE USED 

Formaldehyde is a gas formed by the partial oxidation 
of wood alcohol. When combined with water in form of 
a liquid, it is called formol, formalin or formal. It is color- 
less, does not injure the finest materials, and may be used 
in a 5 per cent solution for instruments and brushes and 
i per cent for the face. In general this antiseptic will be 
found the most practical for use and should be kept on hand 
in quantities sufficient for every purpose. 

Corrosive sublimate cannot be employed in the sterili- 
zation of instruments because it corrodes and tarnishes 
them. Carbolic acid has too strong an odor and also dis- 
colors clothing and furniture when used in strong solution. 

Potassium permanganate also stains and causes pains 
and burns if used in strong solutions. 

Peroxide of hydrogen is a popular antiseptic, and is an 
excellent agent for the destruction of bacteria or pus, as in 
pimple treatment, but cannot be used successfully on instru- 
ments. When not in use, it should be kept tightly corked in 
a place away from the light. 

Boracic acid is a mild antiseptic and is non-irritating. 
It can be used on the skin in its full strength, but is not 
effective for instruments. 

Absolute alcohol is an antiseptic and disinfectant used 
for cleansing the skin, but not for instruments. 

Whenever practical, heat is always given first place for 
the work of sterilization, and after that the use of formalin 



T H E S K I N 25 

will be found the most useful. In this connection the stu- 
dent should always remember that it is not alone enough to 
sterilize an instrument, but care must also be taken to pre- 
vent contamination with dust or foreign objects afterwards; 
thus the necessity for the sterilizers, in which instruments 
may remain until ready for use. 




The Way Every Conscientious Operator Will Do 

After washing combs and brushes in soap and water 
they should be plunged into a formalin solution and allowed 
to remain for at least twenty minutes. Then all superfluous 
water may be shaken out and they should be placed on one 
of the trays in the cabinet sterilizer where they may be 



26 THE SKIN 

kept safe from dust and constantly exposed to the fumes of 
formalin that comes from the little dish kept in the bottom 
of the cabinet. 

Here they may stay ready for use. The effect is not 
only excellent from a sanitary standpoint, but also from 
the advertising view, for every caller who sees the care with 
which her own safety from infection is considered will lose 
no time in mentioning this fact to some one else. 

Comedone extractors, scissors, carbon electrodes, 
needles, and in fact everything that is used by the operator 
should be sterilized in this strong solution. 

In the cabinet sterilizer pure formalin is used. It is 
poured onto the blotting paper in the small dish fresh each 
morning. 

Each booth should be equipped with at least two steril- 
izers ; one of the cabinet variety and one of the old fish- 
kettle style, while in all facial booths extra porcelain dishes 
are also indicated for the weaker solutions. 

All bottles should be properly labeled and these labels 
renewed at frequent intervals. Jars should also have labels 
renewed frequently. 

Cotton and gauze should be cut in size convenient for 
use, and kept in large mouthed jars. In this way the opera- 
tor can take out only just what is needed for each case. 

Other antiseptics are frequently mentioned, and of 
these the operator should become informed. 

Common water kept at a high temperature is an excel- 
lent aid, but cannot be used on all instruments, because of 
the destructive power of great heat and also because it is 
not always possible to procure arrangements for boiling 
water. 



T H E S K I N 27 

THE MOST PRACTICAL ANTISEPTIC 

As formalin has been adopted so universally not only 
as a powerful germicide but also as a deodorizing agent, 
and as it has the double advantage of not discoloring the 
clothing though really performing the necessary work, it 
will be found one of the most excellent agents for practical 
use. 

Over zealous persons have occasionally tried to use 
this solution at full strength, thinking if a "little was 
good, more would be better." The results are anything 
but pleasing, for formalin is a caustic fluid and used pure 
will certainly cause a decided irritation. 

In any strength it is slightly irritating to the eyes, and 
occasionally even the weak solution will have to be further 
diluted before using on the skin. 

All instruments made antiseptic by dipping in the 
stronger solution should be rinsed in alcohol or a weaker 
solution before using on the face. 

For combs, brushes and instruments the 4 per cent or 
strong solution is used. All these solutions keep indefinitely 
and should be kept on hand ready for use. 

Strong or 4 Per Cent Solution 

W^ter 64 oz. (two quarts) 

Formalin 2]/ 2 oz. 

The next solution of formalin is usually employed for 
washing off the tops of the tables, shampoo boards and 
enameled dishes, and is also excellent for cleaning the 
hands after treating any scalp or skin disease. 

2y 2 Per Cent Solution Formalin 

Water 1 quart 

Formalin iy 2 tablespoonful 




This Table, Irrigator aod Sterilizer Combined is an attractive and practical 

piece of furniture. Basin may be swung under opaque top out of 

way. Railing prevents jars from being brushed off. 

Solid plate glass shelves. 



T H E S K I N 29 

Last of all comes the I per cent solution of formalin. 
This is used for sponging off the face before using the 
comedone extractor. It is also excellent for destroying 
any bodily odor, such as that sometimes caused by undue 
perspiration. 

i Per Cent Formalin Solution 

Water i quart 

Formalin 3 teaspoonsful 

This solution should be poured into the small dishes 
and kept ready for use on manicure tables or near where 
the operator is working. Instruments not in use may then 
be placed back in the small dish for a moment or so until 
the operator is ready to use it again. This prevents placing 
them on the table where they would become freshly exposed 
to more germs. 

This table forms a very necessary part of the furnish- 
ing of the average office, as it affords a most convenient 
and sanitary resting place for bottles, glass jars, etc. 

In addition to the use of antiseptics, however, there are 
many other points to be considered. The operator should 
always be provided with fresh aprons and should endeavor 
to impress the patient with the idea that an effort is made 
to have everything as cleanly as possible. Fresh towels 
and head-bands should be provided for each patient. In- 
struments should be dipped into a sterilizing solution the 
moment after they have been used, and should in addition 
always be freshly cleansed and ready for each new patient. 

Powder should be kept in shakers, dusted on to cotton 
or gauze, and then after the application, the cotton con- 
signed to the metal waste basket. 

Creams should be kept tightly covered when not in use. 
When in use the ivory spatula or spoon should be employed 



30 THE SKIN 

for removing the amount necessary so as to avoid having 
the operator place her fingers in the jar, then on the 
patient's face, and so on, from one to another,. 

Combs and brushes should have hair removed from 
them immediately after use. They should be first rinsed 
with hot water and then placed in sterilizing solution and 
allowed to remain for ten minutes, when they can be 
drained and placed in the cabinet sterilizer. 

It should be borne in mind that one of the most 
important points in regard to the matter of sterilization 
is to establish the habit. That is, one should never use 
the comb, brush or towel that has been used by any other 
person before sterilizing, any more than one would use 
another's tooth-brush. 

In shampooing, the board should be sterilized just as 
conscientiously after working on a friend as when caring 
for a comparative stranger who really has a scalp disease. 

Peculiar diseases of the face and scalp should not be 
treated by the average operator. Among those commonly 
found I mention sycosis, or barber's itch, ringworm, and 
any pustular disease. 

There is a double reason for refusing such cases ; 
first is that all conditions of this skin require the care and 
advice of a physician. 

The second, the danger of infection to the operator 
herself, to say nothing of the possibility of conveying the 
trouble to her other patients through the medium of her 
finger tips. 

In some establishments, where extremely sanitary con- 
ditions prevail, a special sterilizer is set apart for the care 
of hair. 

For instance, when all extra hair must be washed and 
sterilized while the patient is having a shampoo and scalp 



THE SKIN 31 

treatment, the extra hair will be cleansed in gasoline to 
which formalin has been added. It may then be shaken dry, 
aired for a few moments and then placed in the sterilizer 
subjected to the fumes of formalin. 

As hair itself is always filled with germs, much care 
should be taken to see that it does not float about the room, 
but is immediately placed in a covered receptacle. Stray 
hairs should not be allowed to remain on the dressing tables, 
as they always convey the idea of careless habits. 

Manicure instruments, such as scissors, files, etc., 
should also be sterilized before and after the use and a 
small dish filled with a dilute solution of formalin should 
be placed on the table so that the instruments may be dipped 
into it. 

The cup of the electrolytic massage should be cleansed 
immediately after use and cotton saturated in a disinfectant 
solution, such as formalin, kept there until the cup is ready 
for use again. 

CLEANSING OF THE HANDS 

This habit once established will become so natural that 
no thought will be required. It will have a marked effect 
on increasing the confidence of every patient, for in this 
day of universal knowledge people soon become informed 
upon these points. 

The operator must not only cleanse her hands immedi- 
ately after caring for the patient but must also cleanse her 
finger-nails and she must repeat this procedure before she 
takes another one, no matter whether she has been giving 
a treatment in the interval or not. 

It is the care in these little things that are most 
important. 



32 THE SKIN 

So, no matter who the person is, whether friend, 
relative or acquaintance, not for one moment should the 
vigilance be relaxed, but always the same precautions 
maintained and just as much effort made to avoid infection 
as though every person treated was a possible source of 
danger. 

Constant, scrupulous effort will inevitably be rewarded. 
Hence, it behooves every operator to bear in mind always 
that the one great, imperative, crying necessity in every 
branch of her work is the thorough understanding and the 
practical, every day use of the principles of sterilization. 



CHAPTER III 

THE SKIN AND ITS DIVISIONS 

The skin is an elastic and flexible membrane covering 
the entire body. Certain elements are present everywhere 
and are essential portions of this organ. Others are found 
only in special regions and are called appendages. These 
are the hair, sweat and sebaceous glands and the nails. 

The appearance of the skin varies in different individ- 
uals and in different parts of the body. 

The color depends upon the amount of blood contained 
in the surface vessels and on the pigment deposited in the 
malpighian layer. 

The entire surface of the skin with the exception of 
the soles of the feet and the palms is covered with hair, the 
true hair on hairy parts and the soft lanugo or woolly fuzz 
on other sections. 

The perfect skin is soft, smooth and elastic and moist, 
varying greatly from the olive of the Spaniard and Italian 
to the ruddy color of the Scotch, and from the pearl white 
of the Irish to the pinkish tint found among the Germans. 

Although, to the naked eye the skin appears smooth, in 
reality it is transversed by tiniest and finest of lines as well 
as covered with the soft lanugo or wool hair, in some in- 
stances resembling the down on a peach. It is greatly due 
to this peculiarity of structure that the delicacy of appear- 
ance results. 

In health, perspiration is excreted by the sweat glands, 
an oily substance called sebum flows from the sebaceous 

33 



34 THE SKIN 

or oil glands, carbonic acid gas and urea are eliminated and 
oxygen is absorbed. 

In thickness the skin varies from one-tenth to one- 
fourth of an inch, being thicker in the palms and the soles 
than in other portions of the body. 

Owing to its situation, the skin is particularly exposed 
to the injurious effects of the heat and cold, thus directly 
affecting the circulation. Prolonged exposure to the sun 
or electric light has a caustic action, as in "sunburn." Un- 
due friction or pressure from the clothing may cause a 
chafed and sometimes an inflammatory condition. Other 
sources of irritation are furnished by the constant presence 
of the various germs always found on the surface of the 
healthy skin as well as in the sebaceous glands, apparently 
only waiting for an excuse in order to become active. 

Ordinarily we distinguish three layers in the skin. The 
first is called epidermis, epithelium or scarf skin. 

Next comes the corium, also called cutis-vera and true 
skin. In this layer we find the glandular, vascular and 
nervous structure. 

The third layer is called the subcutis or subcuta- 
neous tissue and lies directly under the corium containing 
connective fibers, large and small fat cells, deeper seated 
follicles and large blood vessels as well as the sweat and 
sebaceous glands. 

THE EPIDERMIS 

Although ordinarily spoken of as epidermis or epithe- 
lium and considered as one layer, there are in reality four 
divisions of the outer portion of the skin. The first is 
called stratum corneum or horny layer, because of the 
constant shedding of the small scales. Directly under this 



THE SKIN 35 

horny layer comes a poorly defined layer almost like a deli- 
cate transparent line which is called stratum lucidum. 

Next comes the stratum granulosum, consisting of 
two or three layers of flat nucleated cells. 

Last of all is the malpighian or mucuous layer, also 
called the rete malpighii. In this layer are situated the pig- 
ment cells or coloring matter which give to the skin its 
particular color. An over distribution of pigment produces 
a dark skin. Irritation, disease, and exposure to the sun 
often causes an increased deposit of pigment in the shape 
of freckles, moth-patch or tan. Treatment for discolora- 
tions must be directed to this spot, and it is for this reason 
that the galvanic current is so extremely important and 
by its aid, we can force in the substances that will remedy 
these conditions. 

Projecting down from the malpighian layer into the 
corium are club-shaped processes that fit in between the 
papillae that extends upwards. But, though this lower 
layer of the epidermis and the first layer of the corium are 
thus connected there is one great difference between the 
first and second layers of the skin that must always be 
borne in mind, and that is the fact that in the epidermis 
there is no blood or nerve supply. 

A common illustration of this fact may be seen in the 
formation of the ordinary blister, in which the outer skin 
will be seen to raise and separate from the kwer part. 
Puncturing the blister will simply allow serum to escape 
but will not cause any blood to flow. 

The success of the various methods of removing the 
skin for the correction of facial blemishes consists in the 
art of applying a chemical that will blister just deep enough 
to affect the epidermis, and will not in any way injure the 
corium or true skin. 



36 T H E S K I N 

THE CORIUM 

The corium, derma or true skin is considered the 
most important part of the cutaneous organs. It is a curi- 
ously complicated combination, making one think of a 
city, thoroughly riddled by surface cars, in the shape of the 
blood and nerve supply, elevated roads resembling the 
papillae and for the subway the follicles and glands, while 
one may think of the dense network of interlaced connec- 
tive tissue as the streets. 

In this layer we find the blood vessels, nerves, lym- 
phatics, bundles of smooth muscular fiber, the hair and its 
sheaths, and the ducts of the glands. 

The corium is in turn divided into the papillary 
and recticular layers. The upper or papillary layer pro- 
jects between the club-shaped process of the malpighian 
layer, containing the blood and lymph supply as well as 
the nerves. In the appearance known as goose flesh the 
effect of the papillary layer is plainly shown. In order to 
keep the skin well nourished this layer must retain every 
function. When in consequence of ill health both blood sup- 
ply and the nervous system are affected the papillae lose 
their elasticity and the skin becomes flabby and wrinkled. 

When a deep incision is made and the papillary layer 
is injured a scar results, where if only the epidermis had 
been affected the scar would in time disappear. 

Directly below the papillary layer is the recticular 
layer, distinguished chiefly by a more regular arrange- 
ment of the connective tissue bundles. The elasticity of 
the skin is due to this particular arrangement, as curling 
around each bundle of connective tissue will be found the 
elastic fibers. 



THE SKIN 



37 



THE SUBCUTIS 

The subcutis or subcutaneous tissue lies beneath 
the corium. It is composed of connective fibers forming 
large, loose meshes. Large and small fat cells are also 
found here, as well as large blood vessels, nervous struc- 
tures, sweat and sebaceous glands, also the deeper seated 
hair follicles. 

The normal skin is of good color, soft luster, firm in 
texture and unmarked by any defect. 

Exposure to the sun and air, the use- of strong soaps 
and impure cosmetics, neglect, all these contribute to bring 
about abnormal conditions, and must be skillfully treated 
if any relief is to be obtained. 

Nature is often more than gracious in presenting us 
with complexions and healthy skins. Common sense must 
be brought into use if we are to continue to enjoy these 
blessings. No matter how good the skin may be originally, 
constant care must be used if it is to be kept in a good condi- 
tion past middle life and on into old age. 

As an example it will be noted that often though the 
complexion may be muddy and the skin of the face rough, 
that of the body will be white and clear, because the cloth- 
ing has protected it from the effects of the sun and air, 
and the constant gentle friction has kept it in good condi- 
tion. 



CHAPTER IV 

SKIN GLANDS AND THEIR DISEASES 

The sebaceous or oil glands are situated in the corium 
or subcutis and are generally connected with the hairs. 
They are usually from 2 to 6 m. m. in length and secrete an 
oily material called sebum. In health, the glands throw out 
just enough of this oily substance to keep the skin flexible 
and the hair glossy. 

There are about 600.000 sebaceous glands in the body. 
When an alteration takes place in the natural secretion, 
structural changes result, and we find either an excess or a 
diminution of the secretion. 

Among the diseases of the sebaceous glands caused by 
this change in structure we find the following: 

SEBORRHOEA 

An over-activity of the sebaceous glands brings about 
that condition known as seborrhoea, which occurs in two 
principal forms. The first is the dry form in which the 
solid, fatty constituents of the sebum appears in the shape 
of a scaly mass, which we call dandruff. 

The other form is one in which the oily material pre- 
dominates and is sometimes seen in the form of drops of 
oil at the mouth of the ducts, making the skin look and feel 
as though annointed with oil. 

MILIA 

Retention of the sebaceous material sometimes results 
in a peculiar condition called milia, from the Greek word 

38 



T H E S K I N '39 

meaning millet seed. They are situated chiefly where the 
skin is thinnest, and appear hard, freely movable masses 
enveloped in a tiny sac. Left alone the mass may run to- 
gether, forming a flat, hardened plaque. 

COMEDONES OR BLACKHEADS 

Comedones are small portions of sebaceous matter 
which plug the ducts of the sebaceous glands. The black 
or brown color of the tip is due partly to the peculiarity of 
the epithelial cell and partly to dirt. Although usually 
found on the face, these small pests appear all over the 
body at times, making the skin look as though sprinkled 
with gun-powder. 

When allowed to remain undisturbed, there is a tend- 
ency to cause inflammation, hence the treatment is to re- 
move them as quickly as possible and then use manipulation 
for the purpose of restoring the glands to their natural 
functions. This subject will be considered at length under 
the subject — "The Treatment of Blackheads. " 

THE SUDORIPAROUS GLANDS 

The sudoriparous or sweat (sometimes called the 
coil) glands are situated deep in the recticular portion of 
the corium and in the subcutis. They are small, round yel- 
low bodies y 2 to 3 m. m. in length, and numbering about two 
to three thousand to the square inch, or three million to the 
average body. The secretion of these glands is called sweat. 
About 28 per cent of the water excreted by the body is by 
means of these glands. 

The action of the sudoriparous glands is increased in 
some forms of disease, and is far greater in summer than 
in winter. Oftentimes medicated baths and internal reme- 



40 THE SKIN 

dies are used in order to force more work upon the skin 
and thus relieve the other organs. Common disturbances 
of the sudoriparous glands are the following: 

ANIDROSIS 

Here the secretion is very much diminished, resulting 
in a peculiarly dry condition of the skin. In some instances 
this is a congenital condition, in others it is dependent upon 
some mechanical cause, such as an obstruction of the sweat 
ducts. The secretion may be totally suppressed, thus caus- 
ing many other disagreeable results. Massage, friction and 
the use of hot baths are the usual remedies. 

HYPERDROSIS 

An excessive amount of perspiration over either the 
entire skin or in certain localities is called hyperdrosis. 
This condition may result from unwonted exertion, mental 
emotion of a depressing kind (as in cold sweat) or as a 
rapid form of w r aste associated with a certain disease. When 
it is localized to the hands and feet it is not only disagree- 
able but is often painful, causing a thickened, sodden con- 
dition of the skin, as well as a clammy, slippery feeling. 

Science has done but little to remedy this condition 
until during the past few years it has been discovered that 
certain local applications will not only prevent excessive 
perspiration, but will also remove any objectionable odor. 

The application, used in the form of a powder, simply 
diffuses the secretion in a normal manner. The powder 
may be used in the arm pits, about the neck, on the hands 
or on the feet, and after the first few applications but an 
occasional use is necessary in order to insure comfort. 

Perspiration Powder is indeed a boon to those who 
suffer from this disagreeable condition. 



T H E S K I N 41 

BROMIDROSIS 

Most disagreeable of all of the anomalies of the sudor- 
iparous glands is that in which the secretion is foul smell- 
ing. Many people who have been cleanly to the point of 
being over fastidious, have been so annoyed by the persist- 
ence of this condition as to be absolutely unfit for society. 
The odor is so sickening that an idea of bodily filth is nat- 
urally associated with it. The favorite sites for this trouble 
seem to be the arm pits, the axillae, and the feet. 

Scientists are still somewhat undecided as to the cause. 
Some declare that the offensive odor is caused by the pecu- 
liarity of the oily substance excreted with the perspiration. 
Recent research seems to prove that a certain micro-organ- 
ism is at fault. 

The most efficacious treatment and indeed the one that 
has secured the best results, consists in bathing the afflicted 
parts in a mild solution of formalin, and using the Perspira- 
tion Powder once or twice a day until the condition is re- 
lieved. 

This powder is harmless and will positively cause no 
bad effects. 

CHR0M1DR0SIS 

Under certain conditions the sweat and the sebaceous 
secretion may become colored. Shades of red, blue, yellow, 
violet and even a black sweat has been observed. This phe- 
nomenon is generally localized and is frequently found on 
the foreheads, cheeks, eyelids and sides of the nose, though 
others parts of the body may also be affected. It is usually 
found in people of poor or weakened state of health, so a 
general treatment is necessary. 



42 THE SKIN 



HEMADROSIS 



Bloody sweat sometimes occurs as a result of the blood 
filtering into the coils and the ducts of the sweat glands. 
This condition is extremely rare, and is seldom observed 
excepting in people of an excitable temperament, who have 
been subjected to a great mental strain. Local applications 
are quite useless in a trouble of this kind and so general 
treatment for this improvement of the health must be 
advised. 

URIDROSIS 

In this condition the sweat has a urinous smell, owing 
to the presence of urea and other urinary constituents. In 
marked cases the excretion may be so pronounced that the 
entire body is covered with tiny crystals. 

SUDAMINIA OR MILIARIA 

Obstructions to the sweat glands cause this trouble. 

Small vesicles appearing like drops of dew appear on 
the skin. The fluid is nothing but imprisoned sweat which 
has been prevented from finding its natural outlet, and so is 
contained in the vesicles under the horny layer. Epithelial 
plugs usually cause this condition. Opening the horny 
layer and extracting the plug is the only remedy known. 

PRICKLY HEAT OF MILIARIA PAPULOSA 

An inflammation of the sweat glands called by the 
scientists miliaria papulosa is one of very frequent occur- 
rence. Babies and fat people seem to be the chief sufferers. 
The lesions appear suddenly and prickle or tingle constantly. 
Treatment consists in the use of soothing lotions, alkaline 
or bran baths and a carefully selected diet. All cause of 
irritation in the clothing should be removed. Sponging the 



T H E S K I N 43 

body with a solution of soda followed by dusting the entire 
surface with a powder made as follows w T ill be found ex- 
tremely effective : 

Talcum Powder 2 ounces 

Boric Acid 1 ounce 



CHAPTER V 

LESIONS OF THE SKIN 

Although the average operator should be wise enough 
not to attempt any treatment beyond her province, still in 
order to do justice to the conditions she does treat, she 
should make a study of the skin and be able to classify the 
various conditions she finds. 

Diseases of the skin may sometimes be purely local ; 
other times they simply represent a disordered condition of 
the system. 

Dermatologists call the local symptoms objective and 
subjective. 

By subjective is meant that which causes a sensation 
such as itching, smarting, heat, pain, tingling. 

By objective, the structural lesions of the skin are 
meant, that is, the changes that can be detected by observa- 
tion and by sense of touch. 

A lesion is a morbid or unnatural condition of the skin. 

Lesions are divided into two classes, primary and sec- 
ondary. 

The primary or elementary lesions or conditions are 
those with which the disease begins and which may remain 
unchanged. 

The secondary lesions are the results of a modifica- 
tion or alteration of the primary manifestations. 

Under the primary lesions we have the following : 

Macule (patch), a flat, circumscribed alteration in the 
color of the skin, neither depressed nor elevated; for ex- 
ample, a freckle, or tattoo mark. 

44 



T H E S K I N 45 

Papules are elevations of the skin, either firm or com- 
pressible, not larger than a pea. They may be round, flat 
or conical. They are often seen in cases of acne or eczema. 

Tubercle is a term applied to a large papule. This is 
a solid elevation varying from the size of a pea to a cherry 
and is usually deep-seated. This term should not be con- 
fused with tuberculosis. 

Tumors are still larger elevations of the skin, either 
soft or firm, always deep-seated and represent the next 
stage of tubercle. Sebaceous cysts are examples of tumor. 

Wheals are round, white or pink elevations of the skin 
of semi-solid consistency, attended by intense itching. Mos- 
quito bites and the sting of a nettle cause wheals to appear. 

Vesicles vary from a pin-head to the size of a pea and 

look like tiny blisters. The skin is elevated and contains a 
clear fluid. 

Blebs, sometimes called bullae, are large vesicles or 
blisters, varying from a pea to a small Qgg in size and hav- 
ing fluid contents. 

Pustules are circumscribed epidermic elevations of 
various sizes, containing pus, and are found in acne and in 
pustule eczema. 

Of these primary lesions may be remembered that 
vesicles, blebs and pustules are hollow and the others are 
solid lesions. 

SECONDARY LESIONS 

Scale (squamae) are dry attached patches, usually 
found as a result of some morbid process of the skin and 
are seen in eczema and psoriasis. 

Crusts are dried masses of exudations and are also 
sometimes called scabs. For instance, in acne or eczema 



46 THE SKIN 

-we may have a pus crust, or after a pustule has been 
opened and bleeding has resulted a blood crust. 

Excoriations are superficial losses of tissues, for exam- 
ple, scratch-marks. 

Fissures are cracks or breaks in the skin, always linear, 
involving the corium as well as the epidermis, and may be 
observed very frequently in cases of chapped hands and lips. 

Ulcers (cores) are either round or irregular, variously 
sized losses of tissue, resulting from a suppuration in which 
skin and subcutaneous tissue is involved. 

Scars (cicatrices) are new formations of connective 
tissue replacing lost substance. 

Pigmentations (discolorations) are transitory or per- 
manent stains often left by cutaneous diseases, like the pur- 
ple marks seen after cases of acne have been partially 
cured. 

In addition to the recognition of the various lesions the 
operator should also bear in mind the following rules : — 

"Always use the most soothing treatment in acute in- 
flammations of the skin. For instance, in an aggravated 
case of sunburn, or a rash brought about by the use of 
strong ointments, an absolutely bland preparation should be 
used in order to avoid further irritation. 

Use stimulation in chronic diseases. Many operators 
think because they see the inflamed condition of the skin in 
acne, eczema and psoriasis, a soothing treatment is indi- 
cated. Instead, as much stimulation as possible should be 
given in order to increase the blood supply to these parts and 
aid in the carrying away of the impurities. 

Avoid soap and water in acute cases of eczema. This 
procedure sounds easy, but is often most difficult. Many 
cases of acute eczema are found on the scalp and the patient 
absolutely insists upon a shampoo. Each shampoo increases 



T H E S K I N 47 

the trouble, hence the operator should refuse to be per- 
suaded into doing anything that will aggravate the condi- 
tions and should explain her reasons to the patient. 

Be careful not to use preparations unless you know 
something of their action. For instance, if one ointment 
should contain sulphur and a lotion containing mercury 
were to be used, the result would be a black discoloration 
that would stain the skin. 



CHAPTER VI 

THE USE OF COLORED LIGHTS 

Although colored lights in some form or other are 
found in nearly every parlor in the country in use on various 
forms of skin troubles, and in treatment of all disorders of 
the scalp, but little seems to be known by the operator in 
regard to the action of the different colors. 

Whether these lamps are 16 or ioo candle power; made 
of dipped or stained glass, makes a great deal of difference 
in treatment, so instead of purchasing a lamp by reason of 
the name under which it is sold, there should first be an 
inquiry made as to the kind of lights and the candle power 
before placing these articles in active service. 

Whether the article is called "leucedescent rays," "vio- 
let ray," "therapeutic lamp," or "dermal lamp," something 
should be known of what may be accomplished before even 
the first experiment is made. 

Sunlight has been for years regarded and listed as an 
excellent germicide. In fact, it may be truly called the best, 
cheapest and most universally used bactericidal agent. 

While it cannot be claimed that a short exposure to the 
sun's rays will kill germs it has been conclusively proven 
time after time by some thousands of experiments that a 
prolonged exposure to the rays will kill a great majority of 
the germs and will always retard the growth of the others, 
if indeed it does not render them harmless. 

Exposure to the sun for any length of time always re- 
sults in what is known as a "sunburn," also called by the 
name of "erythema solars." 

48 



THE SKIN 49 

As a rule the most exposed portions of the face are 
most affected. 

For many years sunburns were attributed to the heat 
as well as to the chemical rays of the sun. Experiments 
proved otherwise, so now we know that the greatest and 
most enduring, and in fact most remarkable effects, are all 
produced by the chemical rays. 

As an illustration, it may be stated that travelers in the 
Arctic region suffer with symptoms identical with our sun- 
burn, due to the reflection from the snow and ice fields of 
the sun's rays upon the exposed skin. 

Professional oarsmen, athletes and in fact all of the 
white race who are exposed to the rays of the sun for hours 
at a time without any protection to the skin invariably 
suffer with "sunburn." That this is due to a chemical and 
not to a heat action is shown in this manner : 

Inflammation from sunburn leaves a pigmentation of 
the skin. 

The effect of ordinary heat would be to temporarily in- 
crease the color, but would not cause an increase in pig- 
ment. 

Heat rays act through the clothes. The chemical rays 
act exclusively on parts most exposed to their action. 

Inflammation caused by exposure to heat would develop 
immediately. 

Sunburn, on the other hand, though it may differ from 
a slight irritation to* a profound and almost unbearable in- 
flammation, develops slowly and is usually at its height 
from 12 to 24 hours after exposure. 

Further experiments have developed the fact that ordi- 
nary lights or lamps give less, and electric lights give more 
chemical ravs than the sun, and from these facts have been 







Showing Use of Therapeutic Lamp in the Treatment of Acne, 



THE SKIN 51 

derived the reasons for giving treatments by means of the 
electric lights. 

The great Finsen, after years of study, decided that 
much of the scarring in smallpox came because the patients 
were exposed to the rays of light and that the chemical 
action of these rays produced a great irritation. 

He therefore suggested that all smallpox patients be 
kept constantly under the rays of red light. Even the lamps 
in the rooms were to be covered with red shades and in no 
instance was there to be any exposure to ordinary sunlight 
or lamplight, until every trace of suppuration had vanished. 
As a result of this treatment, not one case so cared for 
was scarred in the least. In addition the course of the fever 
was also much affected. 

Several patients who left before the vesicles were en- 
tirely healed, however, were affected quite severely in those 
portions and scars did appear as a result of exposure. 

Photographers take advantage of this fact, too, by ex- 
amining sensitive films by a light from which all chemical 
rays have been excluded. 

Finsen continued his experiments for some time after- 
wards by arranging a series of glasses in the order of the 
spectrum, red, yellow, green and blue and placing these 
slides over boxes in which he had earth worms. At the end 
of a few moments, all the worms had moved toward the red 
glass and away from the chemically irritating blue light. 

As soon as the worms were settled under the red light 
he changed the glasses about and immediately the worms 
traveled back in search of the light, that was most rest f til, 
the red light. Experiments with other insects that were 
known to have a preference for the dark corners showed 
that in every instance they were uneasy and excited under 
the blue and the green lights, more contented under the yel- 



52 T H E S K I N 

low, and absolutely at home under the red light, as it was 
free from all chamical rays. 

As a result of numberless experiments Finsen decided 
that the colors had the following results : — 

Red glass, giving pure red rays, gives an effect hardly 
more marked than shade (or darkness). 

Yellow glass is but little different. 

Green glass produces a more marked effect. 

Blue glass gives a very strong reaction. 

He speaks of his experiments in this manner: "The 
evident result of these researches is that the action of the 
chemical rays (blue violet) on these animals as compared 
with the heat rays (red) and the light rays (yellow) is very 
considerable, more than that we find in it the extreme in- 
fluence of the chemical rays upon the organism. 

"By my previous remarks I have desired to draw atten- 
tion to the chemical power of light. This power theoretic- 
ally parallel to two other forms of solar energy, heat and 
light, no doubt constitute a means of action too much neg- 
lected in medicine. We know the chemical rays bring to 
the body which absorbs them a certain energy transformed 
in different ways, and we come to see that the most special 
transformation of this energy from the biological point of 
view seems to be an excitation of the nervous system, which 
doubtless influences secondardily all the vital function." 

In Dr. Finsen's work, he continued until he evolved 
the Finsen Ray, also sometimes called the "Ultra Violet." 

Either the sun or a powerful electric light is used, and 
the light so obtained passed through wonderfully clear 
lenses until all heat rays as well as the ultra, red, orange 
and yellow rays had been excluded, and then through a layer 
of water colored blue, then in concentrated form it must 
be passed perpendicularly upon the tissues treated. 



THE SKIN 53 

In lupus the effects have been marvelous while in other 
skin affections great improvement has been made. 

The approximate cost of the best Finsen apparatus 
ranged from $1,000 to $50,000, depending upon the number 
of lenses used. 

I mention this fact in order that the student may not 
imagine she is using an "ultra violet" treatment when she 
manipulates the ordinary blue light. 

In Finsen's work it must be remembered he excluded 
all heat rays. 

In ordinary work with the various lamps, these rays 
are used, and indeed, many people complain unless they feel 
the heat. 

Finsen also realized that even a very thin layer of 
blood would absorb os many of the light rays that few 
could pass to the deeper tissues, so in every case treated he 
applied pressure to remove the blood from the spot until 
after the treatment was finished. 

Finsen also concluded that the ultra violet rays pro- 
duced the greatest germicidal power. 

Ultra-violet rays must .not be confused with the ordi- 
nary blue ray. The real ultra-violet apparatus is so con- 
structed that other rays are excluded. It is furnished either 
by the manufacture of extremely fine rock crystal lenses or 
it may be supplied from an electric arc. 

This last form of ultra-violet apparatus is usually pro- 
vided with a rheostat enabling one to get the effect of a 
burning glass or of simply a moderate supply of heat. 

Rays from this form of lamp directed on the skin for 
any length of time would produce a decided blister. The 
blister, however, would not appear for about three hours 
after the treatment, showing conclusively that it was of a 



54 THE SKIN 

chemical nature. This treatment has frequently been used 
for deep-seated troubles. 

Larger forms of light, especially those suspended from 
the ceiling containing lights of high candle power and sup- 
plied with screens, will give both blue and ultra-violet rays 
though there are proportionately few of the latter. 

The use of the blue light for the purpose of reducing 
nervous tension is steadily increasing, and it may be inter- 
esting to the woman in business to know something of the 
work being done. 

BLUE LIGHT AS AN ANAESTHETIC 

In the London Hospital and in various Sanitariums, 
experiments for some time have been carried on with the 
blue light to see if it would have an effect on calming the 
patients. 

Nerve specialists declare they have seen a difference 
by simply exposing their patients to the light filtering 
through an ordinary blue pane of glass. 

In the hospital, experiments have been conducted by 
placing the patients beneath the rays of the larger forms 
of light suspended above them and requesting them to gaze 
steadily at these lights for some time. 

In some instances within a very few moments the pu- 
pils dilated, eyelids drooped, and a deep though natural 
sleep ensued, allowing the surgeon to perform operations 
without disturbing the patient in the least. 

In every case the nervous tension was relieved and the 
patient declared she felt sleepy. 

The operator may find a practical application for this 
fact by using the light on patients who object to the use 
of the electric needle or to an acne treatment. A trial of 



T H E S K I N 55 

the light for ten or fifteen minutes before treatment will 
make it much easier. 

In order that there may be no confusion as to the use 
of the lights once more mention will be made of their uses. 
We have mentioned Finsen's deductions regarding the 
effect on worms and insects, so now it will be no more than 
fair to devote at least as much space to man. 

SUMMARY 

The Pure White Light from an Arc Lamp produces a 
chemical effect and will blister the skin, has an antiseptic 
action. 

Ultra- Violet Light is antiseptic and chemical in action, 
having even more decidedly bactericidal qualities than any 
other form of light. It is used more for treatment? of lupus 
and diseases within the province of the physician. 

Blue Light is penetrative, antiseptic, tonic and acts as 
a sedative to the nerves, though it may have a mildly irri- 
tating effect on the skin. It may be used in all cases of 
acne, eczema, psoriasis and various scalp troubles. When 
used for any length of time the light may be suspended 
some distance above the head and should be used on the 
bare skin. If used for forcing in creams, it may be em- 
ployed for a shorter time, it should be used on the bare 
skin first, and later followed by an application of ointment 
and then more exposure to the light. 

The Red Light is stimulating, deeply penetrating and 
produces more heat rays. Used for any great length of 
time it will, of course, produce a slight amount of irritation. 
A short exposure, say for ten or fifteen minutes, seems to 
soothe the skin. 

It is excellent for forcing in ointments and for use on 
all sensitive surfaces. 



56 



THE SKIN 



The ordinary lamp is used with either the blue or red 
lights, and the use of these two, if of good glass, will prove 
very beneficial, though, of course, the smaller forms of light 
cannot give the results to be obtained from those specially 
adapted to deeper effects. 




Mcintosh Style "G" Dermal Lamp with 50 c. p. Bulb and Ruby and Violet 

Ray Screens 



CHAPTER VII 

ELECTRICITY 

To many people the mere mention of the name elec- 
tricity conveys an idea of mysterious contrivances, queer de- 
vices, and startling treatments. 

Oftentimes it would take days of patient effort to per- 
suade a student that electricity was nothing but a natural 
force and in no way to be feared. 

The peculiar prejudice, fear or superstition, whatever 
it might be called, was in reality nothing but a form of igno- 
rance. 

Investigation then, as now, always took some time to 
bring about, but just as inevitably the same result followed 
— complete conversion. 

The timid student frequently becomes the most fearless 
experimenter. All who become at all familiar with the 
principles that must govern intelligent work unite in enthu- 
siastic reports on the results positive to be obtained. 

An excellent education is not necessary as a prelimi- 
nary to the study of electricity. 

Many of the best students are those who have had the 
fewest school advantages, but who do possess the two quali- 
ties necessary for success in any line of work — an adequate 
amount of concentration, and the patience to persevere. 

New lines of thought are really like new lines of work. 

The first time one attempts to use an instrument of 
any kind the fingers are awkward and the practice is re- 
quired to gain skill. 

So with the first time new thoughts are submitted, per- 

57 



58 THE SKIN 

haps the brain is not just receptive enough to receive them, 
and so "thought practice" must be tried until every fact be- 
comes plain. Anyone can do it. It just means trying again, 
and again, and some more, and then again. 

Occasionally one hears a beginner say, "I would not 
use electricity, I read the other day a man was killed by it." 

One might just as sensibly say, "I won't drink water, 
I knew some one once who was drowned," or, "I will never 
have a lire in my house because two of my friends were 
burned to death." 

The use of electricity by means of portable batteries or 
by wall plates properly installed will not be at all dan- 
gerous. 

When deaths have occurred from the electric current it 
is because the quantity of current has been tremendous and 
has come directly from a lighting circuit or wire without 
having anything interposed to break the force or reduce 
the strength. 

Electricity is all about us, we breathe it, eat it and 
drink it, in latent form. 

Years ago Thalen, the Greek, discovered that by rub- 
bing a certain transparent substance vigorously it possessed 
the power of attracting to it other light substances, such as 
paper. This light transparent article was called amber — 
and from it electricitv was named. 

Centuries later an Englishmen named Gilbert created 
great interest by repeating these experiments and adding 
some few more of them, but did not carry his investigation 
further until in the middle of the eighteenth century, 
Stephen Gray, of England, and our own Benjamin Frank- 
lin made important discoveries at about the same time. 

Since that time investigation and experimentation have 
been frequent and constant, until today we are living in the 



T H E S K I N 59 

"Electrical Age," and in every department of life making 
use of this wonderful power. Street cars, telephones, tele- 
graphs, automobiles, vacuum cleaners, churns and dish- 
washers all are evidences of what may be done to make life 
more agreeable. 

Practical application of electricity for treatment of the 
various skin diseases is also becoming more and more a 
matter of "common sense. " 

Electricity is in reality nothing but a form of energy. 
Everybody is capable of generating a current of electricity 
in the body by merely exercising the muscles. 

The old experiment of scuffing the feet over the carpet 
and lighting the gas or drawing a spark from the gas jet is 
so old one almost forgets it is a proof of how electricity may 
be produced. 

It certainly illustrates the fact that "Electricity is en- 
ergy." That definition, however, hardly carries with it 
enough information, so as an explanation that will more 
readily give the idea we will accept the following: 

"Electricity is a mode of motion or form of vibration 
or some other manifestation of that form of matter we 
call ether." 

To understand how electricity penetrates and perme- 
ates all bodies we must then understand what ether is and 
here perhaps a little imagination may be necessary. 

ETHER 

One cannot see air, yet air assuredly exists. Now im- 
agine something even finer or thinner than air, an invisi- 
ble, delicate, intangible something that is fine enough to pen- 
etrate between the molecules and you have ether or elec- 
tricity in a latent state. 



60 THE SKIN 

Technically the definition reads: 

"Ether is a hypothetical medium of great tenacity and 
extreme tenuity pervading all space, the interior of solid 
bodies not excepted, and acting as a medium for the trans- 
mission of heat and light. 7 ' 

FORMS OF ELECTRICITY 

By disturbing the equilibrium of ether we have elec- 
tricity. 

There is but one kind of electricity, though it may be 
manifested in many different forms. We usually recognize 
as being most important : 

i. Static, also known as Franklinic or f fictional, only 
used for body treatments and therefore in the province of 
the physician. 

2. Galvanic, the continued or direct current used for 
the removal of all superfluous hair, warts, moles and naevi, 
also for cataphoresis, as in bleaching. 

3. Faradic, also called the interrupted, induced, or ex- 
tra current, because of the manner in 
which it is produced. This current is 
usually indicated for stimulation. 

All other currents, such as sinusoi- 
dal or high frequency, are but modifi- 
cations of the other forms. 

In order to provide electricity for 
the purposes of treatment we have 
machines called batteries. 

The process of making a battery is in reality very sim- 
ple, as shown by the cut. This illustrates what may truth- 
fully be called 

THE SIMPLEST FORM OF BATTERY 

It consists of two dissimilar pieces of metal partially 




T H E S K I N 61 

immersed in a diluted solution of sulphuric acid contained 
in a glass jar. 

Should these two metals be placed in the solution with- 
out being connected or with insulation between them there 
would be no action from one to the other. 

When, as shown by the wires "c" is connected to "a," 
the chemical action is commenced and we have a current 
passing through the fluid from the zinc to the carbon and 
back again through the wire from the carbon to the zinc, 
as shown by the tiny arrows. 

Current generated in the battery cells always takes this 
direction so the current from the carbon pole is always 
positive and that from the zinc always negative. 

Six, twelve or more cells may be united by the wires 
and the current then passed from the terminal "c" through 
a conducting cord to a person and back through the other 
conducting cord, held by the other hand of the person to 
u z." The positive current would thus be entering the body 
through the cord leading from the positive and passing 
back by means of cord leading to the negative. 

A very important part of the work of operating a 
battery is that of knowing just what are the various terms 
used to describe the parts, and how to use the terms denot- 
ing electrical measurements. 

At the first attempt these terms may seem a little diffi- 
cult, but after a little thought and consideration the effort 
will not seem half so great, until finally in a short time 
every phase relating to the use of the current will be easily 
understood. 

BATTERY 

A battery is a machine for the production of electricity. 
As the electric current is produced and may be used from 
the simplest form of cell, so this also may properly be called 
a battery. A combination of cells would be known under 



62 THE SKIN 

McIntosh 12-Cell Combined Galvanic and 
Faradic Fluid Battery 




A Simple, Practical, Portable Fluid Cell Battery 



A Section of the Fluid Battery, Illustrated Above, Showing Base, 

Elements and Cell 



T H E S K I N 63 

the same name, only designating whether the battery were 
composed of one, two, twelve or more cells, by mentioning 
the number in use or by stating it to be connected with city 
current. 

THE CIRCUIT 

The circuit includes the constituents of the battery, the 
connecting wires and anything with which the free end of 
the wires may be connected. For instance, in illustration — 
should the operator hold a connecting wire from "c" in one 
hand and from "z" in the other, the circuit is completed 
and is called a "closed circuit!' 

Should, however, the first u z" and last "c" be connected 
directly by a short wire or by touching the tips of the 
connecting cords together, a "short circuit'' is caused, de- 
stroying the efficiency of the battery by exhausting the 
cells. 

An open circuit is made by disconnecting the wires 
and thus putting the battery out of working order. 

POLES 

The points from which the electric current enters and 
leaves are called the poles. The positive pole is designated 
by the letter P or the sign +, the negative by the letter i\ 
or the sign — . 

BINDING POSTS 

The metallic posts into which the conducting cords are 
placed are called "binding posts" and are designated by the 
letters P and N to show to which pole the cords may be 
attached in galvanic section, or P and S in faradic section, 
meaning primary and secondary. 



64 T H E S K I N 

ELECTRODES 

The instruments to which the conducting cords are 
fastened are known as electrodes. Thus a hair brush'would 
be known as a "hair-brush electrode/' a sponge as a "sponge 
electrode/' the carbon cylinder as the "carbon electrode/' 
etc. Oftentimes the expression "Apply the positive or the 
negative pole" confuses the beginner. These terms simply 
mean to apply the electrode connected with the positive or 
the negative current. 

CONDUCTORS 

All materials or substances such as gold, silver, cop- 
per, etc., which readily permit electricity to pass over them, 
are called good conductors. The term conductors is applied 
to the electrodes and cords by which they are attached to 
the battery. 

INSULATORS 

Substances hindering the passage of electricity are 
called insulators. Among them may be named glass, rubber, 
shellac, etc. As an example of the necessity for insulation, 
the conducting cords may be taken. They are of wire, but 
are covered with silk or cotton, thus insulating them so 
that an accidental contact between the wrapped cords can- 
not produce a "short circuit" and thus exhaust the battery. 
In some work in which the operator only desires to obtain 
the action of the electric needle for a certain distance, all 
but the portion of the needle inserted beneath the skin will 
be covered with shellac, thus insulating and preventing any 
trouble from accidental contact. 

In addition to a knowledge of the names of the various 
parts of the battery it is absolutely essential that the stu- 
dent be familiar with the electric measurements, that she 



T H E S K I N 65 

may be able to realize at all times the quantity of current she 
is employing. 

The volt, ampere and ohm are the first three measure- 
ments in electricity. 

VOLTAGE 

Voltage, also called electro-motive-force or E. M. F., 
is one of the component parts of electrical energy. It is in 
reality the pressure at which electricity is used and repre- 
sents the "push power. ,, One volt is equivalent to the pres- 
sure from one Daniells cell. But although we may have a 
great amount of pressure and must know accurately what 
proportion we are using, it does not always follow that the 
quantity of electricity in use will be great, because we must 
also remember that the pressure is to be exerted against a 
resisting force. It follows, therefore, that the current avail- 
able for performing work will be only the excess over what 
is required to overcome resistance. 

OHM 

The ohm is the unit of resistance. Resistance may be 
well illustrated by this very simple example. Supposing a 
force of ten pounds were to be utilized for driving a steel 
pencil into first a block of stone, next a block of wood, and 
last of all a pat of butter. Naturally the steel would only by 
the exertion of tremendous force — or voltage — make an 
impression on the stone, because the resistance would be so 
great. On the wood the resistance being far less, the same 
pressure would produce a greater effect, while with the 
butter the steel would have no difficulty at all, as the resist- 
ance would be practically nothing. 

As electricity is constantly used upon bodies having 



66 THE SKIN 

varying grades of resistance the ohm is therefore used as a 
unit of measurement, and technically one ohm is said to 
equal the resistance of a column of mercury 106 centimeters 
in length, having an area of cross-section of one square 
millimeter, at o degrees C, or 32 degrees F. 

AMPERAGE 

The ampere is the unit of current and represents the 
amount of electricity that can be pushed through a resist- 
ance of one ohm by one volt of pressure. The ampere would 
of course be too much current for use in the work of apply- 
ing the electric current therapeutically, so for convenience 
sake has been divided into 1,000 parts called milliamperes. 

The human skin offers a decidedly high resistance to 
the passage of electricity, representing with ordinary sponge 
discs from 5,000 to 14,000 ohms. A battery of say 20 dry 
cells would when fresh represent a voltage of thirty. This 
interposed against the average body resistance of 6,000 
ohms, the quantity of current obtained could be found by 
dividing the number of volts by the number of ohms show- 
ing the body resistance and in this instance would therefore 
represent 1-200 of an ampere or about 5 milliamperes. 

MANNER OF MEASURING THE CURRENT 

As all bodies differ in respect to the amount of resist- 
ance they interpose, and as in the human body different 
parts vary owing to the texture of the skin, presence of fat, 
etc., it can easily be seen that the resistance plays an im- 
portant part in any operation in which electricity is used. 
Thus although one knows that the average cell when new 
can exert what is practically equivalent to one and a half 
volts of pressure, the amount of current used will naturally 



THE SKIN 67 

depend upon the resistance interposed, and hence the neces- 
sity of knowing with some degree of accuracy how 
this current may be measured, for the voltage is only the 



Mclntosb Improved Milliamperemeter 
Carpenter-Deprez Type. Pocket Form 

propelling power, it is the current (amperage) that accom- 
plishes results. The instrument used for the purpose of 
measuring the current passing through the patient is called 
a milliamperemeter. By the use of this instrument, we can 
always tell just how much we are using, no matter what 
may be the resistance of the subject. It is therefore a very 
valuable and in fact a necessary part of every battery. 

MANNER OF CONTROLLING THE CURRENT 

It has been explained that resistance is a most important 
factor, and must always be considered in the amount of 
current used for any treatment. In many batteries of the 
newer type the direct or street current is used as a means 
of supply and as the voltage varies from 90 to 500, it is 
sometimes necessary to interpose a greater resistance than 



68 



THE SKIN 



that offered by the body and hence the use of the "rheo- 
stat." When the rheostat is to be connected with the direct 
lighting current a Vetter series attaching plug with 1 6 candle 




The MacLagan Wire Rheostat 

power lamp should be employed. The attaching cords 
leading from the Vetter plug should be tested for polarity 
by dipping them in a glass of water, the negative pole 
being indicated by a great profusion of fine hydrogen 
bubbles ; this cord should be attached to the binding post 
at back of rheostat marked "N," while the other cord 
should be attached to the binding post marked "P." After 
the connections are made and the current is turned on the 
rheostat regulates the current by means of a small arm 
which may be moved about until the meter registers the 
amount of current usually employed in the operation. This 
rheostat is also used in all large batteries and is extremely 
helpful in regulating the current. 

HOW TO SELECT A BATTERY 

After studying the subject of electricity the student 



THE SKIN 69 

naturally desires to purchase a battery and immediately the 
question occurs, "what kind do I need?" Nine times out of 
ten, the matter has been decided not by considering the use 
to which the battery is to be placed, not by the fact that a 
good battery always costs more than a poor one, but simply 
by the question of price itself. 

The utter absurdity of such a course is apparent to 
anyone who realizes that as the electric current is now 7 used 
in practically every treatment of the scalp and face, it is 
imperative to procure a battery that will be capable of fur- 
nishing the different currents indicated for treatment of the 
conditions found. 

Of course, one must also take into consideration the 
manner in w 7 hich the operator is obliged to employ the cur- 
rent. For instance if residence work is to be cared for, a 
portable battery is a necessity, and hence the number of cells 
must be limited. If one is a long distance from supply 
stations or is living under climatic conditions that preclude 
the use of the dry cells, now so commonly employed, a wet 
cell battery must be purchased, w T hile on the other hand 
if the work can be done in an office under the most favor- 
able conditions and the city lighting current is direct, the 
wall-plate may be utilized. 

In any event, no matter what economy she may practice 
in other directions the operator who wishes to obtain posi- 
tively the best results, should without the slightest hesitation 
procure the very best outfit for her particular kind of work ; 
it is really upon the proper use of the electric current united 
with her other treatments, that she can base her fondest 
hopes for success. 

Ordinarily the average operator has purchased the 
faradic battery and has used it for every operation. The 
faradic current, the use of which will be explained later, is 



70 



THE SKIN 



excellent in many cases, but the operator who hopes to give 
all treatments successfully by means of it and thus to limit 
her use of the electric current, cannot hope to do good work. 




Mcintosh 14 Dry Cell E. & M. Battery 

Hence it will always be well to procure a battery that 
combines both currents, the galvanic and the faradic, and 
in this manner offers a much wider range for a variety of 
treatments. 

For a portable battery, combining both currents, noth- 
ing: better can be found than the form here illustrated. In 



THE SKIN 71 

this there are twelve cells for the galvanic portion* and two 
for the faradic. It is so constructed that all the instruments 
in use may be packed closely into a section left for this pur- 
pose, while either portion may be repaired or changed with- 
out disturbing the other. A small switch circle makes the 
increase or decrease of active cells an easy matter. For a 
beginner this battery will be especially good, for while it is 
quite all that can be desired for the work of removing super- 
fluous hair, and minor facial blemishes, scalp stimulation, 
etc., it is also so simply constructed that the most diffident 
novice will be able to understand and use it successfully after 
carefully heeding the directions. 

The cost of recharging this battery is but trifling, and 
as with hard usage the cells last for six months, while with 
average use they will be good for at least eight, it can easily 
be seen that the battery will but seldom be out of working 
order, and at such times the delay will only be of a short 
duration, as the work of replacing the cells is simple indeed 
As all cells, either wet or dry, are practically of the same 
strength in the beginning, the same rules that have been 
given for the use of the other battery will apply in this, and 
as a rule four cells will be found all that will be necessary 
to use in the average treatment at first, although six and 
seven and even eight will usually have to be added gradually 
in the treatment of moles or warty growths, while ten and 
twelve may be used in giving the electrolytic massage. 

A more elaborate dry cell battery, furnished either with 
or without the rheostat and the milliamperemeter, is also 
illustrated. The manner of using is the same as with the 
smaller form and the results will be found most excellent. 
This battery is decidedly in favor in sections where the 
direct lighting current cannot be utilized, and yet where the 



72 



THE SKIN 



operator 'desired a heavier current for use in cataphoresis as 
well as for stimulation. 

THE MC INTOSH "SIMPLIFIED^ 2*] DRY CELL GALVANIC AND 

FARADIC BATTERY 

It is of similar construction to the Fourteen Dry Cell 
Combined Battery, and is fitted with twenty-seven dry cells, 




Mcintosh "Simplified" 27 Dry Cell Galvanic and Faradic Battery 

twenty-five being connected in the galvanic circuit and two 
utilized for the faradic coil. 



THE MC INTOSH ELABORATE 2"J DRY CELL GALVANIC AND 

FARADIC BATTERY 

In this battery the galvanic current is obtained from 
twenty-five dry cells connected in series, controlled by the 
MacLagan wire rheostat and measured by the Mcintosh 



THE SKIN 



73 



improved milliamperemeter, scale-reading O150, and ob- 
tained from the binding posts facing the meter. 

For office work, or where one uses a battery constantly, 
and can secure the direct dynamo current, a wall plate is 
most desirable. The great advantage in the use of this bat- 
tery lies in the fact that it is always ready for work, never 




Mcintosh "Elaborate" 27 Dry Cell Galvanic and Faradic Battery 



gets out of order, and provides a current that may be used 
every hour of the day with practically no deviation in 
strength. This battery also furnishes a current that may 
be used for any kind of treatment from the light work 
necessary in all treatment of facial blemishes to the heavier 
currents customary where disorders of the system have to 
be considered. Where one desires to use simply the gal- 
vanic current, the form of plate illustrated on page 74, 
embracing rheostat and milliamperemeter only, is practical. 



74 



THE SKIN 



The use of the milliamperemeter makes the work far 
more satisfactory in many ways, as by glancing at the meter 
one can at a glance see exactly how much current the 
patient is taking. 





The combined battery is really the ideal apparatus for 
the operator who likes to feel that she has at all times at her 
command, just the kind of current she desires to use on any 
case. There is very little expense connected with a battery 
of this kind, and it is so useful and so complete that one 
who is once accustomed to it will prefer it to anything else. 

Even in instances where the lighting current is not 
direct, it is possible to use a wall plate by securing a num- 
ber of dry cells and making the connection accordingly. 
This form of battery can also be piovided in a wall cabinet 
or in a case that will stand on the floor if one desires such 



THE SKIN 



75 



an arrangement. For all practical purposes, however, just 
the plate itself is all that is necessary. 




So many lighting currents are of the alternating 
variety that in order to use a wall plate it also becomes 
necessary to invest in the apparatus called the 4 'current 
rectifier/' This little arrangement transforms the current 
from alternating to direct, enabling one to do just the 
same work as would otherwise be done with the ordinary 
wall plate and the direct current. 

Rectifiers of some varieties have been rather un- 
pleasant, as the current from them has been unequal and 
stinging. With the new device called the "Potential 
Equalizer" this pulsation is removed, giving a steady and 
pleasing current. 



76 



THE SKIN 



The small wall plate illustrated is a recent device, 
that may be procured either with or without the case. 

It can be used on either current though, of course, on 
the alternating the Potential Equalizer must also be added, 
making the cost greater. 




Mcintosh Improved Alternating Current Rectifier 
with Potential Equalizer 



As will be noticed this wall plate has but one switch 
which is also a current selector, permitting one to use the 
Faradic or Galvanic, whichever is desired, with but one 
motion. 

This wail plate has the MacLagan Rheostat and an 
excellent milliamperemeter, thus giving one all the ad- 



THE SKIN 



77 



vantages of the old style plate and yet not possessing the 
disadvantages always afforded by a complicated number 
of switches. 

A wall plate may seem like more of a first investment 
than one wishes to consider, but after all it is the onlv 
really practical form of battery to use because it is always 
ready. There is no waiting for cells to be repaired, no 
bill every six months for new cells, but just a smooth 
working apparatus always ready and always a comfort. 




A Portable Wall Plate 



A new apparatus has recently been devised combining 
all the advantages of a Wall Plate with the convenience of 
a portable battery, which can be made use of ,in any part of 
the establishment. The strength of current being constant, 



78 THE SKIN 

you are assured of more uniform results than with a battery. 
The voltage is perfectly controlled by the MacLagan Wire 
Rheostat and the current is measured by milliamperemeter, 
insuring accurate results. 

Instead of a lot of complicated switches as most Wall 
Plates and batteries have, it contains a Dial Current Selector, 
showing the names of the various currents engraved on a 
dial. Simply turn the knob to the current desired and it is 
ready for use. Instead of having a Wall Plate placed per- 
manently in one booth you can use this in any booth and thus 
double or triple its efficiency. It is the most convenient ar- 
rangement ever designed for outside work, as it can be used 
in any home having the lighting current, either direct or 
alternating, and in places where no current is found you can 
fall back on the six dry cells contained in the case. This 
apparatus works on the alternating current as well as on the 
direct. 

A small Rectifier consisting of jars which are almost 
hermetically sealed to prevent possibility of spilling liquid, 
is contained in the case. If you have direct current, you can 
get a perfectly graduated galvanic current as mild as you 
wish it or as strong as you desire; and a faradic current 
perfectly controlled. If you have alternating current, you 
can secure galvanic and faradic currents, as above, and you 
also have the additional value of the sinusoidal current, 
which many of the most advanced physicians are employing 
for massage purposes. The sinusoidal current resembles the 
faradic in its properties, as it is well adapted for facial and 
scalp massage, but is much more pleasing in character, as it 
does not have the harsh interruptions possessed by the fara- 
dic, but, as the name indicates, it is in the form of a sine 
wave or sinuous curve, to express it more simply. The 
voltage rises and falls gradually in a smooth curve instead 



THE SKIN 79 

of rising and falling abruptly as it does with the faradic cur- 
rent. One feature of the sinusoidal current is that it makes 
absolutely no sound, hence nervous patients will ap- 
preciate it. 

If you have no electric current, there are six small dry 
cells in the case, giving ample strength for faradic current, 
also sufficient galvanic current for electrolysis. 

No electrician is needed to install this outfit, as you can 
simply screw the attachment plug in any lamp socket and 
follow the simple directions for testing which accompany the 
outfit and you will know instantly whether you have got 
direct current or alternating ; then just turn the Dial Selector 
to the proper point on dial and you get either galvanic, 
faradic or sinusoidal as desired. 

The sinusoidal current can only be obtained in connec- 
tion with the alternating current and can not be had with the 
direct current. 

When a fluid battery is found to be a necessity it 
may be obtained with cells varying from six to twenty- 
four, as desired. In the use of this form of battery, as 
in that of the dry cell, it will not be found practical to use 
anything smaller than the one in which there are twelve 
cells of the galvanic portion as well as suitable arrange- 
ment for the faradic section. 

Before attempting to charge and use a zinc-carbon 
bichromate fluid battery, the beginner will do well to heed 
the following directions. It is quite necessary to know how 
to make the fluid and fill the cell, as it is to make the proper 
connections and proceed with the work. Much difficulty 
may be avoided by sufficient care in mastering the prelimi- 
nary details. The battery fluid is made by means of the 
following directions : 

To make the battery fluid : Sulphuric acid, commercial, 



80 THE SKIN 

3 fluid ounces; powdered bichromate of soda, 3 ounces; 
water, 16 fluid ounces ; bisulphate of mercury, 2 drachms. 
Dissolve the bisulphate of mercury in the water; then^add 
the bichromate of soda. Slowly pour in the sulphuric acid 
and stir until the ingredients are dissolved, then allow the 
liquid to cool, as the mingling of the acid and water pro- 
duces heat, and if the mixture is used when warm it injures 
the battery. 

The bisulphate of mercury keeps the zincs well amal- 
gamated. 



CHAPTER VIII 

THE FARADIC CURRENT 

Although the Faradic Current is in very general use, 
not one person in a hundred who uses it, knows anything 
about the way it is produced or the manner in which it 
should be used to produce the best effect. 

In fact the average operator rarely mentions the effi- 
ciency of a battery, she is more interested in the subject 
of "cost," and limits her outfit to a certain sum regardless 
of w T hat the price she has decided upon may really procure. 

The faradic current is also called the "extra," the 
"induced" and the "interrupted" current, because of the 
manner in which it is produced. 

It was discovered in 1831 by Faraday who proved 
that a current passing through a wire, induced a current 
in another wire, near by and parallel to it though not con- 
nected in any way. 

The wire through which the galvanic current passes 
directly is called the primary wire, or coil, while the induced 
current or that passing through the second wire winding is 
called the secondary wire or coil. 

The usual definition of the difference between gal- 
vanism and faradism as given by an operator is the fol- 
lowing: "the galvanic current is quiet and can take out 
hair ; the faradic current buzzes and can be used in massage 
but not for removing hair and moles." 

There are, however, many really important differences 
that should be understood if good work is to be c 1 one. 

Perhaps the hardest thing to understand is why it 

' 81 



82 THE SKIN 

should take a large number of cells to produce a galvanic 
current that can barely be distinguished while with two 
cells a faradic current may be produced that is too strong 
to be endured with any degree of comfort. 

The reason for the increased force of the faradic cur- 
rent is found in the winding of the wires surrounding the 
bar of soft iron or magnetic core. 

A faradic current is always made by surrounding a soft 
iron core with a primary wire. This is then insulated, that 
is, covered by a non-conducting substance and a secondary 
wire is then wound about it. An automatic hammer is also 
used for interrupting the current from the battery cells. 
When the current is turned on it goes through the primary 
to the magnetic core. The iron core then becomes magne- 
tized and throws out lines of force permeating both the 
primary and secondary coils. The greater the number of 
windings in the coil, the more powerful it becomes, though 
the quantity of the current will be correspondingly lessened. 

The primary current, therefore, gives more current 
and less force, whereas the secondary current gives less 
current and more force. The excellence of the coil depends 
entirely upon the care with which it is made. A good fara- 
dic battery must have a good primary coil with enough 
wire to thoroughly magnetize the core and secondary wire 
much finer and longer while the interrupter should be so 
constructed as to vary the number of interruptions from a 
very few interruptions up to many thousand a minute. 

The applications of the faradic current are based upon 
the general assumption that the current is a general tonic 
in its nature, and is therefore highly stimulating. 

The interruption of this current produces muscular 
contraction, not only of the muscles, but also of the con- 
tractile fibre cells, thus the circulation is stimulated and with 
it the processes of waste and repair. 



THE SKIN 83 

POLARITY 

The question of polarity is not of as great importance 
in the use of faradism as in galvanism. Some manufac- 
turers omit the letters indicated positive and negative and 
instead simply letter the windings P. and S., meaning 
primary and secondary. 

When polarity is indicated, the same directions that 
are used in galvanism may be followed in a general way. 
Of course, the faradic current cannot be used for the re- 
moval of superfluous hair or growths, but may be used for 
stimulation and to allay pain. 

When the portion to be treated is very sensitive, the 
negative electrode should be placed beneath the feet or in 
some indifferent portion of the body, while the positive 
is used over the affected portion, and down the spine 
using it for a longer period than usual over the portion from 
which nerves leading to the part affected are given off. 

Should there, on the other hand, be a desire to stimu- 
late greatly, the negative electrode is indicated as the active 
factor while the positive may be held in some indifferent 
portion. 

The primary coil has the greater effect on muscular 
contractions. 

The secondary coil is used for deeply seated troubles 
and for effect on the nervous system. 

Owing to the fineness of the winding of the secondary 
coil, it gives a much more pleasant effect and is therefore 
used in all scalp and facial work. 

General faradization is rarely given by the operator, 
although it should be understood. By this term is meant 
a treatment that affects the entire body. The patient's 
feet are placed on a flat block tin electrode, while the other 



84 T H E S K I N 

electrode is brought slowly from the base of the brain 
down the spine, then over the chest and abdomen and 
down the thighs and legs, repeating the process some ten 
or fifteen times. 

The effects of this sort of treatment are really quite 
remarkable. Among other results, the following may be 
accomplished : 

EFFECTS PRODUCED BY GENERAL FARADIZATION 

The entire nervous system is soothed and pain is 
diminished. 

Insomnia is frequently cured. Oftentimes patients 
become so sleepy under treatment that they cannot keep 
their eyes open. 

The circulation is improved. 

Muscles develop in size and hardness. 

Brain and mental faculties are strengthened. 

Intense stimulation is followed by a sensation of rest- 
fulness. 

Nutrition is improved. 

A simple experiment showing the action of the faradic 
current may be easily performed by anyone who cares to 
make the effort. The arms should be bared, and the cur- 
rent turned on, the subject grasping both electrodes, one 
in each hand. As the force of the current is increased it 
will be observed that the muscles contract and the blood 
vessels become far more prominent, showing that the cir- 
culation is directly affected by the use of faradism. 

Rockwell cites some interesting experiments with far- 
adism which prove the tonic effects. 

He subjected a certain number out of a litter of pup- 
pies to the faradic current while an equal number were 
left untreated. At the end of four weeks the puppies were 



T H E S K I N 85 

weighed, and not only was there a decided gain in weight 
on the part of those that had been subjected to this process, 
but in general appearance they were also more attractive 
and appeared far stronger. 

He also states that "the permanent effects of the use 
of electricity on the person of the operator are :" 

First, a marked and sometimes rapid growth of the 
muscles of the arm caused by the muscular contractions and 
increase of the local processes of waste and repair, etc. 

Second, a very gradual but decided tonic influence on 
the system. 

In the work of the dermatologist as the faradic cur- 
rent is so generally in use, it is quite possible that the tonic 
effect of the current when passed through the arms in this 
manner may also aid in making her work less arduous. 

In practical work the faradic current is generally 
employed by passing it through the fingers of the 
operator, thus conferring a double benefit in treatment, 
that the subject holds one electrode while the other — or 
wrist electrode — is fastened about the wrist of the operator 
and in this manner the current passed through the finger 
tips onto the face. 

It can also be used or applied by means of any of the 
metallic electrodes first covered with moistened cotton. It 
may be employed when considered advisable in connection 
with the electrolytic massage cup. It is very frequently 
used in the treatment of the scalp by means of the hair- 
brush electrode and is excellent for work in filling out the 
hollows in the cheek, neck or in the effort to develop the 
bust. 

In using this current it must always be remembered 
that the effects are almost purely mechanical, the primary 
current giving, it is true, some of the galvanic effect, but 



86 THE SKIN 

to a very limited extent, while the secondary current gives 
still less. 

It is a very desirable aid in treatment and fills a de- 
cided want, but as its action is more or less limited it 
should preferably be used in combination with the gal- 
vanic current either after a treatment, before or else by 
means of a process combining the two. 

FARADIC CURRENT IN MASSAGE TREATMENTS 

In connection with massage treatments the faradic 
current is always employed while the manipulations are be- 
ing given. The patient holds the moistened cotton-covered 
carbon electrode in her hand, while the operator has the 
wrist electrode fastened to her own arm. 

The current thus passes through the fingers of the 
operator to the patient producing a decidedly stimulating 
and restful effect. 

The strength of the current must always be gauged by 
the sensations of the patient. Never allow it to become 
in the least painful and always inquire as to which strength 
of the current is most enjoyable. 

A current that is mild and enjoyable over the fatty 
portions of the cheek or at the back of the head, will be 
most unbearable about the mouth, over the forehead and 
around the eyes. 

When the patient has many filled teeth the use of this 
current even in a mild form sometimes produces a tooth- 
ache and cannot be used. 

If used at N all strong about the eyes and especially 
when the finger tips are engaged in manipulating the eye- 
brow, a sharp pain often shoots through the head alarm- 
ing the sensitive patient and spoiling much of the effect 
of the treatment. A little caution will soon remedy this. 



THE SKIN 87 

The current is especially effective when used over 
the temple, at the side of the ears and in the back of the 
neck. It has a tonic effect on both patient and operator. 

In fact, many operators trace their increased health 
to the time when they commenced to use the electric cur- 
rent. Others never think of closing a day's work until 
they have given themselves a "general faradic" treatment by 
placing their bare feet on the metal foot electrode and using 
the hair-brush electrode for a scalp treatment, thus get- 
ting a local as well as a general benefit. 

The current may be used during the entire time the 
finger manipulations are being given without any danger 
of giving too much. It does not produce any feeling of 
dizziness and will not bring about any bad effects. 

THE FARADIC CURRENT IS NOT INDICATED 
IN SOME CASES 

When the face is very florid, the use of faradism will 
increase this appearance. 

In treatment of acne rosacea, or in short, in any 
treatment where there is a desire to decrease the blood 
supply, the faradic current may be omitted while the finger 
manipulations are being given. 

Occasionally in very sensitive subjects, the use of this 
current with finger manipulation will produce a very slight 
rash annoying to the patient. When this occurs, the use 
of the positive galvanic electrode afterwards will be all 
that is necessary to improve the appearance. 

THE FARADIC CURRENT IN SCALP TREATMENT 

As in facial massage the faradic current is used with 
very good results in connection with the finger manipula- 



88 T H E S K I N 

tions. It is also employed in connection with the use of 
the hair-brush electrode. 

When used for manipulation the operator wears the 
wrist electrode and the patient holds the other. 

Oftentimes a current that is really painful on the 
face is not felt at all on the scalp. This is due to the 
fact that the hair is a bad conductor of electricity and 
hence the scalp must be well moistened and kept moist dur- 
ing the entire treatment. 

In this connection also the faradic current is usually 
employed in connection with some form of galvanic treat- 
ment. 

THE COMBINED CURRENT 

In this method the attachment is made by connecting 
the cord from the negative pole of the galvanic portion to 
the primary of the faradic. The two other cords are then 
used by inserting them one in the binding post marked pos- 
itive and the other in the one secondary of the faradic. 
The current may then be turned on as usual and be added or 
decreased by bringing into circuit more of the galvanic cells. 

This process is recommended by Rockwell as a method 
4 'in order to secure the advantages of both currents and at 
the same time avoid the trouble and inconvenience of em- 
ploying them in succession or alternately. " 

In practical work it has been employed by the derma- 
tologist more for the purpose of stimulation, such as in the 
work of bringing new life to the hair and more vitality to 
the scalp, for use in the work of developing the arms and 
neck and bust and for filling out hollows. 

The use of the combined current is especially good 
where small portable batteries like the 14 Dry Cell are em- 
ployed. Often the 12 cells of the galvanic sections seem 



THE SKIN 89 

to produce no appreciable effect in giving a general or a 
scalp treatment. 

By combining the currents a marked difference is im- 
mediately experienced. 

Tests for polarity should be made and the rules gov- 
erning the use of the galvanic current followed in giving 
the various treatments. 

ELECTRODES 

Although all or nearly all batteries are provided with 
the spongio disc electrodes, the operator should remove 
these coverings and substitute fresh moist cotton for each 
patient. 

If a massage roller is used, it should be of carbon and 
thus easily cleansed. The chamois covered metal roller is 
not at all sanitary and will not be employed by well informed 
operators. 

Carbon handle electrodes are also excellent substitutes 
for the ordinary disc and can easily be kept clean. 



CHAPTER IX 

THE GALVANIC CURRENT 

i 

This current is also called the constant or continuous. 
It has a chemical action on the tissues and is used in every 
process of electrolysis such as in the removal of super- 
fluous hair, warts, moles, and naevi, and also in cataphore- 
sis — or forcing substances into the deeper tissues by means 
of the constant current. 

Owing to the fact that this current is noiseless, it is 
often difficult for the novice to realize that the battery 
is in good condition and of full strength. A current that 
cannot be detected by the sensation of touches by placing 
one finger on the carbon and the other on the zinc electrode, 
will yet at the same time produce force enough to ring an 
ordinary door bell. 

On the skin the galvanic current has a marked effect. 
Applied mildly, it will stimulate absorption and is much 
used to remove growths, while when a stronger form of 
current is used the flesh may be cauterized and tissues 
destroyed. 

If the skin is to be bleached the ordinary faradic cur- 
rent will have no effect, while the proper lotion applied 
by means of the galvanic current will produce a marked re- 
sult in one or two treatments. 

In the treatment of acne the faradic current could only 
stimulate. Insert a needle from the galvanic current into 
the pustule and immediately the content becomes liquefied, 
the portion may be cleansed and the stimulation conse- 
quently will promote a speedy return to a healthy condition. 

90 



THE SKIN 91 

For many of the ordinary operations in electrolysis 
a small portable battery is employed. The smallest one 
that is of practical use in all treatments is that known as 
the 14 dry cell battery in which 12 cells are devoted to 
the galvanic section and 2 to the faradic portion. 

If the operator will remember that the voltage or push 
power of one dry cell when fresh is about 1 and */£, she 
will see that the galvanic section yields a voltage of about 
18. The 27 cell battery gives about 39 volts, while from 
the wall plate, we get no volts, quite enough current for 
any kind of work. This plainly shows that while portable 
batteries are very excellent for some parts of the work, 
they are not so w r ell adapted to do the work where a heavier 
current is required. 

Much of the terror inspired by the term electrolysis 
would be removed if everyone could realize how very easy 
it is to manufacture a battery that will do fairly good work. 
All that is necessary can be easily procured in any town 
for one only needs some dry cells, conducting wire, a pair 
of pliers and the ordinary conducting cords. 

MAKING A GALVANIC BATTERY 

A single cell, it has been explained, is a simple battery. 
More than one cell is a compound battery and for all 
treatments a larger number of cells or a compound battery 
is indicated. 

A number of cells will then be procured, say six or 
eight, the unlike elements connected by means of the small 
wires as shown in cut. The pliers will then be used to 
fasten the wire on each and to the conducting cords. The 
usual tests for polarity may be made and, behold, one has a 
battery ready to perform any ordinary work in electrolysis. 

If the reaction does not appear, either the connec- 



92 THE SKIN 

tions have not been properly made or there has been a 
mistake in connecting like elements. A little practice and 
this will be found child's play. 




HOW TO DETECT THE GALVANIC CURRENT 

If only a few cells have been used it will be difficult 
to detect the current by the sense of touch, but at any rate 
the experiment may be tried. 

Moisten the cotton covering the electrode thoroughly 
with a salt water solution and place in .the palm of the 
hand. Place another electrode similarly covered between 
the thumb and first finger of the same hand. With the 
average number of cells a slight pricking sensation will be 
felt. 

Another test is to place the tips of both cords in 
water, when bubbles will appear about the one pole. 

Still another test is to hold one electrode in the hand 
and place the tip of the other on the tongue. This will 
have to be very gently tried as otherwise a burn might 
result. 

POLARITY 

In the application of galvanic electricity, polarity is 
most important. In fact, upon a knowledge of the action 
of the current as applied from the positive or from the 
negative poles depends the entire success of any treatment. 



T H E S K I N 93 

The electric current always flows from the higher to 
a lower level. The higher portion is known as the amode 
or positive pole, while the lower part is known as the neg- 
ative pole or the cathode. In the simplest form of bat- 
tery — a single cell — it will be noticed that the current flows 
in the direction indicated from the zinc to the carbon, and 
as it is a positive current all the time outside of the cell 
the carbon is spoken of as the positive and the zinc as the 
negative. 

The two poles are entirely unlike in their action upon 
the tissues, but before learning about the various proper- 
ties one must learn how to determine polarity. 

HOW TO DETECT POLARITY 

1st — Immerse both tips of conducting cords in salt 
water solution, being careful to see they do not touch each 
other. Immediately bubbles of hydrogen gas will appear 
indicating the negative current. 

2nd — Wet a piece of blue litmus paper and put the 
tips of both cords on it. The paper under positive portion 
will turn red and that under negative will become more 
intensely blue. 

3rd — Insert needles into pieces of fresh beef. The 
negative needle will slip in and out easily, while the positive 
will become embedded and all about it the flesh will 
become black. This takes place in living tissue when a 
mistake is made and the needle attached to the wrong pole 
is used. 

Having learned how to determine the polarity of the 
current, the next important lesson is that of learning just 
when and how each pole may best be used. 

For this reason it will be necessary to study carefully 
the pages devoted to this subject, as if one pole is indicated 



94 THE SKIN 

and the other by some mistake is used, harm will result 
rather than good. 

PROPERTIES OF POSITIVE GALVANISM 

Releases oxygen, although this process is not observed 
by the naked eye. 

Hardens the tissue, hence is excellent in flabby condi- 
tions and in treatment of large pores. 

Decreases local heat, consequently can be used over 
an inflamed surface with good results. 

Produces a clot, and so is often used to stop bleeding. 

Has a drying influence. Produces a hard, unyielding 
scar. 

Repels soluble salts, consequently solutions of this 
kind are always applied by means of positive pole and thus 
"repelled" or sent toward the negative for which they have 
an affinity. 

Lessens nerve irritability. For this reason the use 
of positive electricity often soothes neuralgic pains and 
stops the toothache. 

Decreases vascularity, producing a blanched appear- 
ance very desirable in treatment of red noses. 

May be used in all acute conditions for reducing in- 
flammation, decreasing pain and producing a sedative effect 
excellent after use of needle. 

Decomposes all metals excepting gold, platinum and 
aluminum. Hence, the advisability of utilizing the carbon 
electrode for purposes of treatment. 

Is never used in removal of superfluous hair. 

Is occasionally used by means of solid gold or plati- 
num needle on surface of large growths when "bi-polar" 
methods are employed. 



THE SKIN 95 

PROPERTIES OF NEGATIVE GALVANISM 

The negative current releases hydrogen gas, as seen 
when it is immersed in a salt solution, for bubbles of the 
gas immediately form about it. 

Softens the tissue, hence is indicated in all preliminary 
cleansing methods, also in removal of growths. 

Increases local heat. 

Quickens circulation and increases the excitability. 

Increases vascularity and so is excellent in treatment of 
anaemic conditions. 

It has a moistening influence. 

Aggravates inflammation and hence should never be 
used over a tender surface unless one wishes to produce 
intense stimulation as in some chronic cases. 

Increases irritability of nerves and so should not be 
used in neuralgic conditions. 

Useful in increasing local heat. 

Encourages hemorrhage. 

Is always used as the active pole in removal of super- 
fluous hair, warts, moles, and naevi, also in treatment of 
pimples. 

Attracts all soluble salts. 

Does not decompose any metals with the exception of 
aluminum. 

Dissolves or disintegrates and liquefies, hence always 
indicated in every process of electrolysis. 

The active pole is the name given to the electrode that 
is placed directly over the portion to be treated. For 
instance, in the removal of superfluous hair, the active pole 
would be the needle, while the indifferent pole would be 
the electrode held in the hand or placed on some portion 
of the body. 



96 T H E S K I N 

So in treatment when the negative pole is indicated, the 
electrode attached to that portion is always used as the 
active pole, and of course, when the positive current is 
indicated the negative is the indifferent pole and the active 
electrode is that attached to the positive. 

PRACTICAL APPLICATION OF RULES GOVERNING NEGATIVE 
AND POSITIVE GALVANISM 

With a full understanding of the result one wishes 
to produce and a knowledge of the properties of both 
positive and negative galvanism the proper treatment will 
follow as a matter of course. 

Does any portion of the body need an increased blood 
supply? Negative electricity is at once indicated. 

Should the patient complain of pain as in some 
instances after the use of the negative current, immediately 
the positive current may be used and a sedative effect will 
be produced. 

In treatment of acne, an already inflamed condition 
may be seen, but again negative electricity is used because 
it aids in dissolving the contents of the papules and pustules 
and in improving nutrition. 

So, too, in acne rosacea, the negative needle would 
be used for opening and emptying the capillaries and in 
all cases the positive electrode employed afterward to aid 
in blanching the parts and decreasing the irritation. 

A puffy, inflamed surface might easily be rendered 
worse by negative galvanism, while the positive current 
would produce splendid a results. 

So instances might be multiplied indefinitely, but in 
every case these same questions arise : "What does the con- 
dition demand?" The answer can easily be given if the 
rules governing the current have been learned. 



CHAPTER X 

USE OF ELECTRIC NEEDLE IN REMOVAL OF SUPERFLUOUS 
HAIR AND TATTOOING THE EYEBROWS 

Removing superfluous hair is neither difficult nor dan- 
gerous. The process need not be painful, and the results 
will be uniformly good providing the operator has been 
well instructed, knows just how long and strong a treat- 
ment may be safely given, understands how to treat the 
face after the needle has been used, and is blessed with an 
ordinary supply of common sense. 

The causes of this affliction are never apparent and the 
only really plausible or satisfactory explanation that can be 
given is that it is a freak of nature. In some instances the 
tendency to such a growth is certainly hereditary. In others, 
the face may be absolutely free from any sign of such a 
growth until all of a sudden a luxuriant growth appears, as 
though by magic. Some of the victims are found in excel- 
lent health, others are invalids. Some are married, others 
are maiden ladies of uncertain age. Some have used mas- 
sage and ointments for protecting and beautifying the skin, 
others have never even thought of employing any aid 
toward beauty and only apply for relief from the growth of 
hair because they feel it to be a mark of masculinity. 

In many instances this growth is only found as middle 
life is approached, and in some cases after the age of fifty, 
even without the aid of the electric needle, it has disap- 
peared. In several cases that came under my observation, 
in which the growth was truly disheartening and was more 
of the nature of a beard, improvement in general condition 

97 



98 THE SKIN 

and a trifling operation seemed to be factors in causing it 
to disappear. 

Fox says : "The idea that sea-bathing or the persistent 
use of vaseline on the face will cause an abnormal growth 
of hair, is too fantastic for serious discussion. No proof 
of the assertion is ever shown, and how such an erroneous 
idea originated, is difficult to imagine." 

In any event the only practical remedy is the removal 
of this growth by means of electrolysis. 

Although much has been written about the various 
methods, in reality there is only one way of performing 
this process and that is simplicity itself. 

It consists in introducing into the hair follicle just 
enough electricity to dissolve the follicle, destroy the papilla 
and thus deprive the hair of a home. Deprived of a lodg- 
ing place and with the path from the papilla to the surface 
of the skin permanently obliterated, there is absolutely no 
chance for a new grow T th. Hence if the operator has a 
steady hand, a sure eye, a good battery and the necessary 
needles, forceps and other parts of the equipment, she can 
be perfectly sure of success. 

Whether the patient is taught to hold her fingers in 
water, grasp the electrode before or after the needle is 
inserted or do a dozen and one of the other things men- 
tioned by different authorities as being necessary, makes 
no difference at all with the principle of the process. The 
needle connected to the negative galvanic current must be 
introduced into the hair follicle, the circuit must be com- 
pleted by the patient holding the positive current and the 
process of electrolysis, or dissolving the follicle, must take 
place before the hair can be successfully removed. 

That the student's mind may be perfectly clear in 
regard to the subject, it may be well here to explain the 



THE SKIN 99 

difference between the single, or ordinary method of elec- 
trolysis and the much advertised multiple needle method. 

SINGLE NEEDLE ELECTROLYSIS 

This form of electrolysis is in most general use. One 
needle at a time is used in the manner just described. The 
great majority of good operators consider this method the 
safest, least painful and best, and in addition declare there 
is less danger of producing scars. 

MULTIPLE NEEDLE ELECTROLYSIS 

In this method, there are anywhere from six to ten 
needles suspended from a sort of crown above the patient's 
head. The idea being that each needle is to be inserted into 
a follicle in rotation and that by the time the tenth needle 
is inserted, the first needle with the hair will be ready to 
be removed. 

The objections to this method are many and among 
them may be given the following : 

First — The difficulty in limiting the amount of current 
used. 

Second — The fact that the average patient objects to 
one needle and can hardly be persuaded to like the idea of 
having ten used. 

Third — The danger from scars. I have seen more 
scars from this method than from any other. 

. Fourth — The fact that by this method no allowance 
is made for the removal of obstinate hairs requiring more 
current. If a stiff bristly hair were encountered, all the 
other needles would be used longer than necessary while 
this hair received the extra attention. 

It must of course be conceded that some good oper- 
ators do use this method, but unless some radical changes 



100 THE SKIN 

are evolved, it will never become popular with the greater 
number of operators. 

At any rate, if one understands the principle of single 
needle electrolysis, the multiple method will be found very 
simple. 

THE PRINCIPLE OF ELECTROLYSIS 

As mentioned before, the principle of electrolysis as 
applied to the removal of superfluous hair is extremely 
simple. It consists merely in dissolving the hair follicle 
and its tissue composing the hair papilla by the introduc- 
tion of the negative galvanic current into the hair follicle, 
while the subject holds the positive current. 

The only difficult matter is the removal of the growth 
with as little destruction of the surrounding tissue as 
possible. 

It is for this reason that a knowledge of the proper 
use of the galvanic current is necessary. Any one can 
learn how to use the needle for the removal of superfluous 
hair, but it takes judgment to know just how much current 
to use in the various conditions encountered. 

EQUIPMENT 

First of all, of course, comes the battery. This may 
be of any kind so that it gives a constant current and it is in 
good condition. Then one must have the handles, bulbous 
needles, depilatory forceps for grasping the hair, needle 
holder, magnifying glass or glasses that may be worn and 
for very sensitive cases a cataphoresis outfit. 

Aside from the regular equipment mentioned Fox says : 
"Good eyesight and a steady hand are as strictly essential 
as they are in rifle shooting. But many a man thus en- 
dowed can never acquire the art of repeatedly hitting the 



THE SKIN 101 

bull's eye, and many physicians I have found have failed to 
acquire the peculiar knack of introducing the needle into the 
follicle without pricking the skin. Some simply jab it into 
the skin as near the follicle as possible and thereby give rise 
to the erroneous impression that the operation is a very 
painful one and apt to leave scars. " 

STERILIZATION 

Although some authors are of the impression that the 
electric current has the same effect that an antiseptic might 
have, in reality this is a very erroneous impression. Needles 
must be sterilized carefully before using. For this purpose 
a formalin solution will be found excellent. 

The skin may be cleansed first with a dilute solution 
of formalin and then with alcohol. Then if any moisture 
remains, a little antiseptic powder may be dusted on, for 
instance, a boracic acid powder will be excellent. 

THE SELECTION OF THE NEEDLE 

The selection of a needle is an important item in this 
operation, and the point should always be examined with a 
strong glass that we may be able to ascertain its shape. An 




Fig. A. End of Bulbous Needle, Much Magnified 

ordinary jewelers' broach will do if the point be ground off 
on an oil stone and its temper drawn by heating, but the 
bulbous pointed needle, as recommended by the late Dr. 
P. S. Hayes, a magnified drawing of which is here shown 
in Figure A, is best suited for the w r ork. There are several 
very important reasons why a sharp-pointed needle should 



102 THE SKIN 

not be used : First, there is a depression in the epidermis 
at the base of every hair, very plainly shown in Figure B. 
The bulbous-pointed needle will always find this depression, 
while the sharp-pointed needle is just as liable 
to miss it, and not get into the hair follicle 
at all. Again, the hair follicles are not al- 
ways the same depth or the same direction, 
but the sheath surrounding the hair is tough ; 
in fact, it takes considerable pressure to force 
the bulbous-pointed needle through, and it 
naturally will find the proper depth, while, 
>Q as Dr. Hayes remarks, "the sharp needle 
rt^P would in many cases, penetrate the walls of 
the follicle and wander into the tissue far 
from the desired point, and failure rather 
than success would be recorded." Many 
hairs are removed with sharp-pointed needles, 
Figure B an( j manv writers advocate their use, but suc- 
cess is purely accidental. Figure B shows a magnified hair 
shaft and follicle into which a sharp-pointed needle has 
been plunged and has not entered the depression at the 
free surface of the skin, but which has accidentally pene- 
trated the sheath from without and gained access to the 
papilla. Of course, such hair will be permanently destroyed. 
By referring again to Figure B, it will be noticed that the 
sheath is narrowest at the top or at the point of insertion 
of the hair shaft into the epidermis, which shows the neces- 
sity of actually following the hair shaft with the needle 
in order to be sure of entering the follicle. 

Again, the bulbous needle presents a larger surface 
within the hair follicle, thus causing the destructive effect 
to be more pronounced beneath the surface of the skin, a 
very apparent benefit. 





Removal of Superfluous Hair. f'.. rator is Wearing with 

liinocuiar Magnif. 



i 



104 THE SKIN 

METHOD OF PROCEDURE 

The patient should be seated in a comfortable position 
or possibly, better still, should assume a nearly reclining 
position in such a manner that the direct light will fall upQn 
the portion to be operated upon. The battery may then be 
brought into play and after the current is turned on to say 
four cells as a beginning, the patient may be instructed to 
hold the well moistened electrode, and the bulbous needle 
attached to negative pole should then be passed gently down 
the side of the hair into the follicle. As shown in the cut 
on the skin there is a slight construction at the mouth of 
the follicle, so many times this little impediment to the 
passage of the needle will occur. Ordinarily, however, the 
use of the needle causes the entrance to be effected very 
easily, and in fact it is by the sense of touch as well as 
by evidence of the eyes that the expert operator knows 
she is doing good work. In Fig. B the needle is shown after 
it has entered the follicle, resting by the side of the hair. 

The object in using a needle attached to the electric cur- 
rent is to destroy the tissue composing the hair papillae. 
Naturally, a small portion of the surrounding tissue must 
be affected by the current, and the proolem confronting the 
operator is how to remove the hair growth with as little 
destruction of tissue as possible. It has been found by 
experiment that the negative current is by far the best for 
this purpose, and hence it is always employed, as the effect 
on the tissue is not only less severe, but the danger of 
scarring is not nearly so great. 

In order to destroy the hair, it is necessary to enter the 
follicle with a bulbous or pointed needle, the majority of 
the operators preferring the bulbous variety. The depth 
of the follicle varies greatly, in some instances being not 



THE SKIN 105 

more than one-thirty-second of an inch, while in others it 
is fully one-quarter of an inch. In finding the follicle it 
will be necessary to insert the needle as closely as possible 
by the side of the hair. The difference in the sensation of 
touch when the right path has been entered is usually 
sufficient proof of success. 

At any rate, when everything is in readiness the needle 
is inserted as directed, and is continued until it meets a 
slight obstacle. There it must pause, while the patient 
grasps the positive electrode in her hand, thus completing 
the circuit. 

If the follicle has been entered, in about twenty seconds 
bubbles of hydrogen gas will commence to appear about 
the site of entrance and in about fifty or sixty seconds 
the hair may be grasped by the epilation forceps and a 
gentle traction exerted. If the process of destruction is 
complete the hair will come out easily. If not, the current 
should be continued for about a minute and then the same 
effort made. If at this last attempt the hair does not con- 
sent to come, it will be well to remove it forcibly and then 
use the needle for still another insertion. This procedure 
will only be found necessary in a few cases as the expert 
operator is nearly always able to enter the follicle and thus 
dislodge the hair. 

MANNER OF COMPLETING THE CIRCUIT 

It will be noticed that I recommend giving the patient 
the electrode to hold before the circuit is completed by 
the introduction of the needle into the follicle. I do this 
because practice has convinced me that it is the wisest way. 
Whenever the patient is informed that she can govern the 
current by letting the electrode go, she invariably com- 
mences to experiment, changing from a heavy grasp to a 



106 THE SKIN 

light one, thus often making it necessary for the operator 
to use more current and causing a number of minor dis- 
turbances that perplex a novice. 

Many patients persistently loosen their grasp and thus 
interfere with the work and others become hysterical unless 
consulted each time before the hair is withdrawn. Hence 
the most practical manner is to have the electrode either 
held in the hand from the very commencement of the treat- 
ment or else placed on some indifferent portion before the 
treatment is commenced. 

STRENGTH OF CURRENT 

The best work is always done with a low current. 
When a battery is fresh, two dry cells will often be all 
that is required. In fact, it is better to begin with that 
number, increasing if necessary until four or five may be 
brought into use, and in extreme cases, even eight cells. 

Always remember, the lower the current, the less the 
tissue destruction and the less pain. It is better to use a 
low current a long time, than a high current a short time. 

If the wall plate is used, one-half a milliampere will 
be all that is required at first, adding more current gradually 
as indicated. As a general thing, the use of the street 
current from a wall plate is far more painful to the patient, 
owing to the much higher voltage. 

HOW TO SECURE CONFIDENCE 

Before attempting to work on the face, the operator 
should attempt in some manner to remove one or two 
coarse hairs from an arm or a leg. After one successful 
attempt, there comes a peculiar sensation difficult of descrip- 
tion that imparts a positive degree of certainty as to future 
results. 




MR 




•. 










A 




The Use of the Positive Electrode After Electrolysis for the Purpose of 

Reducing Inflammation. 



108 THE SKIN 

EXCEPTIONS TO THE RULE 

Occasionally, very stiff bristles will be found to require 
a very much stronger current to remove. In such cases, 
of course, more cells will be brought into action. 

Sometimes, even though the hair follicle has been 
entered and the current properly used, the bubble of hydro- 
gen gas appears but the hair is not dislodged. This is caused 
by a twisting back of the hair. In other words it is a 
freak hair and will need to be removed forcibly by the 
forceps and the follicle entered afterward by the needle 
in order to destroy the papilla. 

At times the insertion of the needle causes blood to 
appear. Ordinarily, this is because the skin has been 
punctured by the needle. A little peroxide should be ap- 
plied and if the bleeding persists, the positive ball electrode 
used over the spot for a moment. No more hair should 
be taken out in the same portion during this treatment, 
but instead work may be done in another section. 

In rare instances the introduction of the needle is 
extremely painful and is followed by considerable puffiness. 
When it is absolutely impossible to use the needle, cata- 
phoresis may be tried and a solution of cocaine and adre- 
nalin forced into the skin as described in the treatment of 
moles. This is a process not to be recommended for general 
use, however. 

Very rarely before a treatment is finished, and this 
usually follows after a small blood vessel has been entered, 
the skin will become covered with tiny black and blue 
marks. Immediately the Negative Ball Electrode should 
be used over the portion affected and the blue light with 
acne cream afterward. Following this the positive elec- 



T H E S K I N 109 

trode may be applied. In a day or so the marks will 
disappear. 

AFTER TREATMENT 

Immediately after the use of the needle for the removal 
of superfluous hair some acne cream should be applied and 
forced into the tissue with the blue light. After a few 
moments the superfluous cream may be removed by a bit 
of soft cotton, then the carbon electrode wrapped in moist- 
ened cotton should be rotated gently over the entire portion 
(not dragged or scraped, but gently rolled) for about ten or 
fifteen minutes. Then powder may be dusted on and the 
patient allowed to depart. 

She must be instructed, however, not to use any soap or 
water on portion treated, but instead use a cleansing cream 
and the ointment indicated, until there is no sensation of 
discomfort. 

The reason for the use of the positive electrode can 
easily be seen ; as by its acid reaction it simply counteracts 
the alkalinity of the negative current and thus acts as a 
sedative. On the other hand, compresses of hot water and 
various other lotions only act as irritants to the surface. 

DO THE HAIRS RETURN ? 

If the hair has been properly removed it is impossible 
for a return to occur, because the follicle has been destroyed. 
There may be other hair coming in near that same place or 
perhaps the hair will seem to have a tendency to multiply, 
but in no case has it been proved that the use of the electric 
current encouraged such a tendency. Women troubled 
with these growths are always much more sensitive and 
consult their mirrors so frequently and so closely after 
treatments, that they can see many discouraging symptoms 



110 T H E S K I N 

not perceptible to the operator. In any instance, however, 
the proportion of returns can never be called higher than 
four per cent when a skillful operator has been employed. 
Oftentimes the new hairs coming in are a result of the 
patient's previous efforts to dislodge them some weeks or 
days before by means of the forceps. 

LENGTH OF TREATMENT 

As a rule no treatment should be continued for longer 
than half an hour, both for the sake of the patient and also 
because a longer sitting is hard on the eyes of the operator. 

The use of the glasses illustrated in picture showing 
removal of hair will sometimes make this work easier by 
so magnifying the opening into the hair follicle that there 
is less eye strain. 

From sixty to ninety hairs may be removed in an hour 
unless they are extremely obstinate. 

RULES FOR THE OPERATOR 

ist — Always bear in mind it is easier to use a weak 
current for a long time than a strong current for a short 
time. Always commence with the weaker current, gradually 
bringing more cells into circuit. 

2nd — When the hair is obstinate it is never wise to 
continue the current for more than a minute or a minute 
and a quarter unless it is very stiff and bristly. 

3rd — In very exceptional cases, if the hair refuses to 
be dislodged and the needle has been used for some time, 
it is wise to remove the hair forcibly and immediately enter 
the follicle with the needle once more. This should be a 
marked exception, however. Many German authorities now 
use this method with all obstinate hair, claiming that in 
this manner both papilla and follicle are surely destroyed. 



THE SKIN 111 

4th — Avoid too many insertions near the same place. 
By using discretion and working in different sections, work 
may be continued twice as long as when confined to one 
portion. 

5th — Not only give a thorough treatment after the 
removal of the hair but be sure to caution the patient 
against the use of soap and water, rubbing the skin with a 
harsh towel or any undue irritation. 

In addition to the removal of hair from the chin, one 
is sometimes called upon to remove it from the inside of 
the nose, or the ears. Occasionally some man wants the 
mustache line made smaller or his forehead made higher, 
and all of these operations come under the work of removing 
superfluous hair. 

Occasionally when the subject is very sensitive, the use 
of a cataphoresis may be necessary but unless it is impera- 
tive one should not suggest it as the use of cocaine should 
at all times be discountenanced rather than encouraged. 

Another frequent request is the use of the electric 
needle for tattooing the eyebrows. 

THE PROPER USE OF A DEPILATORY 

When, for various reasons, it is impossible to use the 
electric needle for the removal of hair, it becomes neces- 
sary to select a depilatory that will accomplish the result. 

Whether used on the face or arms the procedure is 
exactly the same. 

The powdered form seems to be the most effective. 
It should be kept in a bottle, tightly corked, and only 
enough poured out for the application. 

To use it, mix the depilatory powder into a thick paste 
with water and spread thickly over the part to be treated. 
From a minute and a half to three minutes will be required 



112 THE SKIN 

to remove the growth, which can then be scraped off with 
the paste. It will be noticed that the hair is not dissolved, 
showing that the action of the paste has been to loosen the 
hair in the follicle. 

Immediately after scraping off the paste spread over 
the parts treated a thick coat of acne cream. Allow it to 
remain for a few moments until any symptoms of burning 
have subsided, then remove and apply a little talcum 
powder. 

When the paste is used on very thin-skinned people, 
they sometimes complain of a burning sensation almost as 
soon as it has been applied. In such cases, remove the 
paste at once, apply the acne cream until the burning has 
ceased, then rub off some of the acne and again try the 
paste in the same spot, allowing it to remain until the 
hairs come too. 

The average length of time necessary to remove hair 
is from a minute and a half to two minutes. At no time 
should the paste be allowed to remain on longer than three 
minutes and a half. 

Always use a watch and note the time in order to 
avoid difficulty. 

Never use a depilatory on an eczematous skin if you 
can avoid it, as occasionally an irritation follows. 

Invariably caution the patient to avoid using soap and 
water on portions treated until a day or so have elapsed. 

By following these directions all average hairy growths 
should be removed without the slightest difficulty. 

TATTOOING AND THE ELECTRIC NEEDLE FOR IMPROVING THE 

APPEARANCE 

The eyebrows may add greatly to the personal appear- 
ance when pleasing in outline, shading and extent. The 



THE SKIN 113 

eyebrows are seldom so perfect in their natural state that 
the featural surgeon who is skillful, cannot improve them 
by his art. No matter how carefully the brows may be 
trained and cared for, a few stray hairs may be removed to 
advantage in many cases, while in other instances the shad- 
ing of the brow may be augmented or modified by judicious 
tattooing. 

Many individuals have a distinct connection of the 
brows in the median line. The connection hairs may be 
removed to advantage. In other cases, we have stray hairs 
projecting directly upward at the inner angle of the brow, 
and no amount of combing or brushing will cause the hairs 
to lie smoothly so that they can be sacrificed to advantage. 
Above the brows, stray hairs may be seen in other indi- 
viduals and their removal will add to the appearance. 

TATTOOING 

Tattooing the brows is accomplished with ease and as 
the results desired are usually intended to be distinct no 
great degree of care is needed in this work. The tattooing 
for darkening the brows is performed after the brows have 
been thoroughly scrubbed and the skin mopped with alco- 
hol. The hairs are parted and the skin pricked with a 
sharp needle. The pricking should not extend far enough 
into the skin to cause bleeding. The tattooing may be at 
least a single portion of the brow or the entire base of the 
brow may be sacrificed with the needle before the pigment 
is rubbed in. 

A special instrument may be secured for tattooing. 
This instrument works very rapidly and the pigment is 
driven into the skin as the punctures are made. 



114 THE SKIN 

THE SCARRED BROW 

A scar involving the brow may show very plainly as 
the result of contrast and tattooing cleverly performed may 
secure a tinting of the scar identical to that of the brqw. 
Proper tinting of a scar coupled with the removal of all 
distorted hair may render a scar noticeable. 



CHAPTER XI 

REMOVAL OF MOLES, PORT-WINE MARKS, 
WARTS AND WENS 

Pigmented elevations of the skin called moles are 
among the most frequent cosmetic difficulties. Frequently 
these growths are most disfiguring, and yet the person so 
afflicted will hesitate at any attempt to remove them, fear- 
ing that "a cancer might come/' if any such effort should 
be made. 

For the comfort of the patient and ease of mind to 
the operated it may be stated, that at the present day, prac- 
tically all of the best authorities are united in declaring 
that the danger does not come from removing these growths 
but from allowing them to remain. 

Any mole, wart, or growth of this description is in 
reality nothing but a combination of misplaced cells. Irri- 
tation may at any time cause these cells to grow and in 
turn press upon healthy tissue, thus producing an inflamma- 
tion. Hence the most practical as well as the only sensible 
method is to remove every growth of this kind as quickly 
as possible. 

Do not wait until it has grown to a certain size but get 
after every tiny speck and thus prevent larger growths. 

The danger of scars is regulated by the strength of the 
current used, and the length of the treatment. The oper- 
ator who wishes to get through in a hurry and who there- 
fore uses a strong current for a long time will often need 
to give one treatment but will almost inevitably destroy 
normal tissue and leave a scar. 

116 



THE SKIN 



117 



On the other hand, a low current, used frequently, will 
so gradually destroy the portion affected, that in time not a 
trace of the former site of the growth can be seen. 

I have removed twenty-eight moles from one side of a 




Growth in Neck Removed by Electricity in Fifteen Treatments 



young woman's face without leaving a single scar. Some of 
these moles were flat and had to be tattooed, others were 
large and vascular. I probably gave thirty treatments and 
extended the period over several months, but the results 
certainly warranted it. 



118 THE SKIN 

In another instance, I removed a growth fully an inch 
and a half in length and a half inch in width covered with 
a fine downy hair in twelve treatments leaving but a slight 
line to mark the place. Of course, all the hairs were 
removed first and then the edges of the growth treated. 

In another instance an old lady presented herself for 
treatment w T ith a large mole right on the tip of her nose. 
It was well supplied with blood vessels and I tried two 
or three treatments with a single needle with but poor 
results. Finally I tried the bi-polar method — that is, placing 
the negative needle through the base of the growth and 
just touching the top with the positive gold needle and in 
two more treatments the growth had disappeared, leaving 
no trace but just a faint pink mark, which in time disap- 
peared. 

In the case here shown, in which the growth is on 
the young lady's neck, as illustrated, the work was excep- 
tionally difficult. This growth had been removed several 
times by a surgeon and in every instance had returned. 
Every time the needle was inserted blood would flow pro- 
fusely and it took several treatments to destroy this blood 
supply. Work was done round the edge of the growths 
and finally the entire portion dried up and disappeared. 

USING THE CURRENT FOR DESTRUCTION OF MOLES 

While one must be careful, as suggested before, not 
to use too strong a current, on the other hand, it is equally 
important that one sufficiently strong to do the work shall 
be employed. Nothing lower than four cells from an 
ordinary battery should be used while from the wall-plate 
at least one-half of one milliampere must be given. 

The use of this current must be continued until growth 
has become decidedly blanched, and the edges of the growth 



THE SKIN 119 

should be treated first. Some operators feel that if they 
place a needle in the center they are doing all that is neces- 
sary. In reality the growth should be considered as the rim 
of a wheel and the needle should be inserted as though it 
were one of the spokes, running it as near the normal flesh 
as possible straight through from one edge to the other, 
forming by the two insertions subdivisions like a quarter of 
a circle and then using more if it seems necessary. 

The positive electrode should be held in the hand, while 
the negative in the shape of the needle is pushed through 
the growth in the manner indicated. 

In order to decrease the pain the flesh surrounding 
the portion should be held firmly between the thumb and 
forefinger of the operator, thus aiding in diminishing the 
blood supply to that section. 

The treatment may last from three to five or six 
minutes, according to the size of the growth and the amount 
of reaction. 

While all treatments are given much the same, as there 
are many varieties of these growths, the description of 
the treatment necessary for each case will be given in the 
section devoted to an explanation of the meaning of the 
terms employed. 

PAINLESS OPERATORS 

When a patient is extremely nervous and in fact does 
not seem at all inclined to tolerate the use of the electric 
needle, a solution of cocaine and adrenalin may be forced 
into the tissues first, making the operation absolutely 
painless. 

The process takes at least ten minutes and it must be 
remembered that with this anaesthesia comes the temptation 



120 THE SKIN 

to use the current longer than necessary. So due caution 
should be observed. 

A full explanation of how to use cataphoresis for 
any condition will be found in the chapter devoted to that 
subject. 

BI-POLAR METHOD 

When the growth is exceptionally large, or extremely 
vascular (supplied with much blood) the two needles may 
be employed at the same time. The negative needle is 
used right through the growth as near the normal skin 
as possible. The positive needle, which must always be of 
solid gold or platinum to avoid leaving a mark, should 
just touch the upper surface. Care must be taken not to 
allow the positive and negative needle to touch in the 
growth, as in this case not only would the process be 
extremely painful to the patient but also the battery would 
become short circuited. 

VARIETIES OF NAEVI AND TREATMENT 

Moles are also called "soft naevi'' and present in addi- 
tion to varieties of cell formation, excess of pigment, excess 
of blood supply and many times a profusion of hair. 

These growths differ also greatly in size, some are 
flat, others round, some long and many are composed of 
papillary structures. In order that the student may rec- 
ognize the most common varieties and be able to use the 
names properly should the occasion arise, I have selected 
the moles most generally found and have not only given 
the medical name but also the manner of treatment. 

Naevus Araneus appears as a bright red spot, 
sometimes tiny red branches are also evident, at others only 
close examination will reveal them. This variety is com- 



T H E S K I N 121 

monly known as "spider cancer/' Treatment consists in 
pressing the surrounding flesh between thumb and fore- 
finger and inserting needle in the portion where blood sup- 
ply seems most plentiful, allowing it to remain for two or 
three moments. A slight amount of blood may be lost, 
but this is advisable. Usually the treatment of the cen- 
tral portion will also destroy branches. If it does not, each 
portion may be treated separately after the center has been 
destroyed. After the use of the needle the positive gal- 
vanic current may be employed by means of ball electrode 
covered with cotton that has been moistened in a boracic 
acid solution. This will reduce inflammation and decrease 
tendency to redness. All spots of this kind should be 
destroyed as soon as they appear, as otherwise they become 
gradually larger and more disfiguring. 

Naevus Pilosus is the name given to a mole covered 
with hair. In these instances the hairs must be removed 
first by the usual method of using the electric needle. Many 
times the removal of the hair is sufficient to destroy the 
growth. If not other treatments may be given. The patient 
should be instructed to be careful not to wash portion 
treated and should apply acne cream each night. 

Naevus Linearis is the name given to warty looking 
or pigmented growths appearing in a systematic shape or 
line. The usual treatment may be given with the electric 
needle and the process of destruction may be assisted by 
forcing tincture of methine into the portion by means of 
the positive electrode after the negative needle has been 
used. Methine ointment may also be used at home. 

Naevus Lipomatodes is the growth that looks like a 
small, white tumor. The usual treatment with the nega- 
tive needle will be all that is required here, being careful 



122 THE SKIN 

to encircle the base completely. These growths are also 
commonly called wens and appear on heads. 

Naevus Telangiectodes or "vascular over-growth" 
is the form so commonly seen in which the skin is either 
stained a red or purplish hue or else a network of small 
blood vessels is seen distorting the appearance of the 
nose and cheeks and imparting a coarse, repulsive appear- 
ance. Many times these telangiectodes surround the naevus 
araneus. When not too extensive they may be removed 
by inserting the negative needle into the central blood 
supply of each group. This is found by pressing flesh 
between thumb and forefinger when immediately a tiny red 
protuberance is seen. Following this treatment the positive 
current with methine tincture should be applied. Often- 
times cases apparently hopeless have been cured by this 
method, though the treatments have extended over a long 
period of time. This condition is always found in, and 
in reality is a part of acne rosacea. 

Naevus Vascularis or port wine marks are some- 
times so deeply seated that no treatment can be of benefit. 
When the stain is merely a surface matter, tattooing the 
portion with the disc needle will be of great assistance. The 
use of methine and positive electrode afterward is also 
indicated. Methine, it must be remembered, has a certain 
decided influence on dissolving growths and yet it does not 
affect the normal skin. It also assists in decreasing blood 
supply to a spot and is not an irritant so it may be used with 
perfect confidence. 

Naevus Verrucosus is a warty looking growth differ- 
ing from the regulation warts only in that the growth is 
not hard. Following the use of the negative needle the 
methine may be used and methine ointment applied at home 
each night. 



THE SKIN 123 

Verrucae Vulgaris is the title given to warts. Not- 
withstanding the many household remedies given for the 
destruction of these pests, they often persist and so the 
electric needle must be used. When the growth is very 
hard and horny, it should be softened by placing a bit of 
cotton moistened with salt and water over it for a few 
moments before the needle is used. Then the current may 
be applied using a stronger amount than usual and methine 
applied afterward. The patient may use methine ointment 
at home too. 

When the warts are about the finger tips and under 
the nails, where it is impossible to reach them with the 
needle, the outer part may be treated as described, then a 
little methine tincture poured into a tiny glass dish and the 
tip to the positive electrode placed in the tincture and fingers 
immersed. The negative current may be applied on top 
of the hand and treatment continued with as strong a cur- 
rent as possible for five or ten minutes. Many times obsti- 
nate cases are cured in one or two of these treatments. 
Wens, known as Naevus lipomatodes, are removed as 
described when located on the face. When found on the 
head, where the use of the electric needle is attended by 
some danger of infection, they may be treated by the spark 
from prismatic ray or they may have the tincture of methine 
forced in by positive electrode and methine ointment may 
be used daily until they have disappeared. 

DANGER OF INFECTION 

Naturally as a preliminary process, the flesh about the 
portion to be cleansed with the dilute formalin solution or 
alcohol, the needles sterilized and the operator's hands 
carefully cleansed and washed in an antiseptic solution. 

When these precautions have been taken there is 



124 THE SKIN 

rarely if ever any infection, unless the mole is situated 
somewhere near the collar or where it may be rubbed and 
thus inflammation caused. It is for this reason that it is 
always well to recommend that the little shields like those 
used after vaccination, be placed over such portions. 

The patient should also be w r arned not to touch the 
portion in any effort to cleanse it but instead to use bits 
of cotton. Accidentally scratching with the finger nails, or 
removing the crust may easily cause a slight infection so 
by evading these possibilities this danger is averted. 

When, however, in spite of any effort such a catas- 
trophe does occur it is usually easily remedied by just lifting 
off the top portion and cleansing the interior with peroxide, 
then placing a wet dressing of boracic acid over the part 
and changing it twice a day until the inflammation has 
entirely disappeared. 

The needle should not be used at any time while the 
growth is inflamed or until the redness has entirely dis- 
appeared. 



CHAPTER XII 

CATAPHORESIS AS USED IN INSTANTANEOUS BLEACHING, 

ALLEVIATING PAIN AND IN PRODUCING LOCAL 

ANESTHESIA 

This name is given to the process by which the gal- 
vanic current is used for the purpose of driving a medicine 
into and through the tissues. 

In some instances and by a few authorities the gen- 
eral process is known by the term "phoresis." When the 
positive electrode is employed, it is called the "anophoresis," 
and when the negative is used it is called cataphoresis. As 
this method is somewhat confusing to the student, we shall 
throughout refer to the process as cataphoresis no matter 
which electrode is employed. 

It will be remembered that under the list of properties 
of the negative pole, it was mentioned that this current 
gave an alkaline reaction. 

The positive current, on the contrary, gave an acid 
reaction. 

All alkaline solutions, therefore, have an affinity or a 
tendency to travel toward the negative electrode, while all 
acid solutions prefer traveling toward the positive. 

In cataphoresis, when one wishes to force a liquid 
into the tissues, if it is an alkaline substance, it is applied 
with the positive electrode and thus repelled or sent toward 
the negative. If it is an acid, it is applied by the negative 
and thus repelled or sent toward the positive. In the 
following examples we will have some practical illustra- 
tions of the use of this property: 

125 



126 THE SKIN 

FORCING INTO THE TISSUES AN ANAESTHETIC 

Many times even for such trifling operations as the 
removal of superfluous hair or the treating of a mole or 
opening of a pustule, it will be found that the patient is 
so sensitive something will be necessary to relieve the pain. 

Owing to the danger of infection, no one cares to 
administer cocaine by means of the hypodermic needle and 
to place this solution upon the skin alone will have absolutely 
no effect, unless it can be used on the mucous membrane. 

It may, however, be successfully forced into the tissues 
by means of the positive electrode and thus the portion 
treated without any sensation whatever. 

The best mixture for this purpose is made by adding 
to cocaine, adrenalin chloride. This should always be done 
directlv before it is used, as otherwise the combination will 
become useless. 

A GOOD LOCAL ANAESTHETIC 

10 per cent Cocaine 9 drams 

1-1000 Adrenalin 1 dram 

Or, as this makes a rather large amount, one may keep 
the 10 per cent cocaine solution on hand and to every nine 
drops, add one drop of adrenalin until the desired amount 
is obtained. 

In applying this mixture a special electrode is neces- 
sary and I have found for this purpose nothing so good as 
one made of a non-corrosive material, such as block tin 
or carbon, in which the insulated edge comes directly in 
contact with the skin. The active surface of the electrode 
may be covered with the cotton saturated with the mixture 
and some considerable pressure used, while from 15 to 30 
ma. of current is passed through the portion treated. 



THE SKIN 



127 



About 15 minutes will be sufficient to show a white 
line of demarkation, showing the zone affected. When the 
center of the spot is also white, the operation may com- 
mence. The longer the current is used the more profound 






Cataphoresis Electrodes with Block Tin Surface Insulated with 

Hard Rubber 



the anaesthesia and the greater the length of time it 
persists. 

The cotton should remain in contact with the skin 
from both sides and top. 

Although this process is an easy one, the drugs used' 
are expensive and it is not to be recommended as a general 
thing. 

It must be remembered too that the cotton needs to 
be well saturated with the medicine used, and that the 
other electrode should be placed near the portion treated 
in order to make the reaction more pronounced, as for 
instance in work on the face, the positive electrode may be 
applied to the spot and the negative in the shape of a large 
flat electrode placed at the back of the neck or between the 
shoulder blades. 



128 THE SKIN 

BLEACHING THE SKIN 

As an addition to the regular bleaching process noth- 
ing can be better than that method of forcing the bleaching 
lotion into the deeper tissues of the skin by means of the 
negative electrode. The current should be used as strong 
as it can be borne and all affected portions treated until 
the flesh is thoroughly reddened. Obstinate chloasma 
(moth-patch), discolored streaks from wearing stiff collars 
and a generally dark appearance may be remedied in this 
manner. 

In this connection, it must also be remembered that 
all oil should first be removed by the use of soda so that 
the lotion may be forced in easily. This method rarely 
makes the skin red or irritated and forms a very valuable 
part of the instantaneous bleaching process. 

RELIEF OF NEURALGIC PAIN 

Fifteen or twenty drops of tincture of aconite placed 
on an electrode already covered with moist cotton and 
applied by the positive electrode directly over nerve affected 
will give relief from neuralgia lasting sometimes for five 
or six hours. 

USING METHINE 

In several sections of this book references have been 
made to a substance called methine. It is much used in 
both the ointment and the tincture. 

„ For reducing the redness in acne rosacea, decreasing 
the blood supply, dissolving watery growths, aiding in caus- 
ing moles to disappear, soothing inflammatory conditions 
in acne, nothing has ever been found to equal it. This 
tincture is always applied by means of the positive elec- 



T H E S K I N 129 

trode and is used for at least ten or fifteen minutes, every 
day when possible, or three or four times a week, until the 
condition is remedied. It has no effect on healthy tissues 
so may be used liberally for it causes no irritation. 

Unfortunately, however, it does leave a green stain 
which may best be removed by applying the lettuce cream 
and allowing it to remain for a few moments and then 
removing with a bit of gauze saturated in alcohol. Soap 
and water have no effect upon this stain, so the operator 
will do well to remember the necessity for using the cream 
as mentioned. 

Many other processes might be mentioned, but as the 
operator is dealing only with ordinary troubles of the skin 
the list would but prove an additional "something to 
learn.'* 

The process of cataphoresis is sure to give satisfaction 
if it is properly done, and by this is meant, if there is 
enough of the mediicne used and if the current by which 
it is applied is used long enough, and strong enough to 
force it into the tissues. 

I have heard a number of operators declare they could 
not get any results with cataphoresis, only to find that they 
have been endeavoring to use a small dry^cell battery for 
this purpose. Naturally under such conditions one can not 
get results. 

Unless your battery gives from 20 to 30 ma. of cur- 
rents, you will need to use a current for a much longer time 
to produce any appreciable result. 

In using cataphoresis, remember also that the electrode 
is to be kept as firmly pressed on the skin as possible, for 
it is necessary to maintain the contact in order to force in 
the solution. 



130 THE SKIN 

INSTANTANEOUS BLEACHING 

This process will positively bleach any skin from two 
to five shades without irritation if care is used in giving 
the treatment. It is especially good for removing the yellow 
streak about the neck, and the suspicious traces of yellow 
on the cheeks. In fact, any skin is brightened and made 
clear by this treatment. 

For very tender skins, such as one finds with blonde 
or red hair, the bleaching lotion should be reduced with 
witch hazel, the mask left on a shorter time. Tissue food 
mixed with the whitening cream for massage. 

If a burning sensation is complained of, the use of 
tissue food entirely for the massage. 

Occasionally the day following a bleach, there will 
be a slight red eruption, but this soon vanishes, leaving 
the skin clearer than before. 

Ordinarily there is no difficulty and the results speak 
for themselves. 

DIRECTIONS 

Cleanse with lettuce cream. 

Remove all traces of oil with soda solution. 

Apply bleaching lotion with negative galvanic current, 
for from twelve to fourteen minutes, using full strength of 
fourteen cells for the process, though of course employing 
a stronger current from the wall plate, when this is 
possible. 

In bleaching, roll the electrode gently but firmly from 
one section to the other, being careful not to drag, scrape, 
or use a jerky motion. 

After completing the use of the lotion, apply tissue 
food to lips, eyebrows, and eyelashes. 



T H E S K I N 131 

Make a paste by adding lotion to the refining powder 
until it is thin enough to spread. 

Cover face, neck and ears with paste. 

Dry with red light. 

Remove with tepid water. 

Apply whitening cream and use red light, giving 
manipulation without the current. If the skin is very dry 
use tissue food instead of whitening. 

Remove the cream by using lavender lotion. 

Close with positive current and the saline solution. 

Apply powder. 

CAUTIONS 

Do not bleach skins already irritated, or where you 
find cases of open pustules or eczema. 

In cases of acne, where it is necessary to bleach the 
skin, mix one-third of peroxide to two-thirds of witch 
hazel, and add to the refining powder for making the mask. 

If the skin seems a little sensitive, use tissue food for 
massage, otherwise use the whitening cream and go through 
regular motions without using electricity. Use lavender 
lotion for removing all traces of the cream and close 
the pores by the use of the positive galvanic electrode 
covered with cotton that has been saturated with salt solu- 
tion. 

For moth patches or very brown skins, the patient 
should be instructed to use the whitening cream every night, 
the bleaching lotion during the day, and the powder always 
before venturing into the air. 

The bleaching treatment may be taken two or three 
times a week. These treatments are especially good for 
removing a coat of tan accumulated during the summer 
and can be used with extremely fine results for the bleach- 
ing of the arms and neck. 



132 THE SKIN 

Always be careful to recommend the lettuce cream 
for cleansing for a day or two following this treatment, as 
otherwise the patient may cause an irritated condition by the 
use of soap and water. 

In bleaching arms and shoulders, the paste may be 
left on for fully three-quarters of an hour with excellent 
effect and the whitening cream spread on liberally after- 
ward and forced in with the red light. The carbon elec- 
trode need not be used excepting in extreme cases, as the 
paste will be usually quite sufficient to do the work. 



CHAPTER XIII 

PREPARATION OF FACE FOR MASSAGE 
USE OF ELECTROLYTIC CUP 

Massage should never be given unless the skin has 
first been carefully prepared by applying a cleansing cream 
that will remove all surface dirt and fatty acids. 

The ordinary skin food will not do for this purpose, as 
it simply adds to the accumulation and does not take away 
from it. 

The mere application of a cleansing cream and instant 
removal does not accomplish the desired result. It should 
be applied and allowed to remain at least five minutes before 
being removed, carefully including the neck and ears in this 
treatment in order that all of the exposed surface may 
appear uniform. 

When, as in most cases, the electrolytic massage cup 
is used before the manipulation, the cream may be applied 
and allowed to remain on the face, while the solution for 
the tank is being prepared. Then it. must be removed care- 
fully, leaving just the smallest amount, in fact scarcely a 
hint of oil, as otherwise the cup could not be used suc- 
cessfully, but instead would glide over the surface. 

Too much emphasis can hardly be placed on this one 
small item. The tendency seems to be so universal, to apply 
more of an ointment or cream than is really necessary to 
do the work. As a consequence, whenever an operator has 
difficulty in the use of the cup, this matter of applying too 
much cream seems to be the stumbling block in nearly every 
case. 

133 



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134 T H E S K I N 

As a means of thorough cleansing nothing can be better 
than the electrolytic cup. However, even with this excel- 
lent article there will be found conditions in which it is 
wiser to adopt some other method and hence the operator 
must remember the following indications against its use : 

ist — When the skin is dry and scaly. The use of 
water in any form simply increases the scaliness and the 
negative current will have a tendency to irritate, so after 
using the cleansing cream the cup may be omitted, massage 
given and after that more cream forced in by means of the 
red light. 

2nd — In some instances one finds an extremely sensi- 
tive skin. Frequently these people have a very high color 
and it will be noticed that the surface capillaries are very 
prominent. Water irritates and in a few cases even the 
use of finger manipulation is not advisable, so instead one 
can only cleanse the skin, apply a little cream and perhaps 
use a little positive electricity. 

3rd — In eczematous cases water nearly invariably pro- 
duces a decidedly unpleasant effect, often bringing about 
a second eruption. Hence it should always be avoided. 

Aside from the conditions mentioned the electrolytic 
cup will be found not only a valuable but an excellent pre- 
liminary to all massage treatments. It is easily used, is 
extremely popular and remarkably beneficial. 

This cup is made of a hard composition, the only metal 
being the inlet and outlet tubes. Attached to the inlet tube 
is a small metallic arm into whkh the tip of the conducting 
cord fits. 

This cord is attached to the battery. The other cord is 
attached to an electrode given to the patient and is held 
during the treatment. The solution in the supply tank flows 
through the rubber tube into the metallic inlet tube, where 



THE SKIN 



135 



it becomes charged with electricity, then against the face 
of the patient and out from the other tube into the receptacle 
placed on the floor. 




Emily Lloyd's Electrolytic Cup 

As a result of this treatment, the skin is only lifted 
gently (not stretched) from its old grooves and at the 
same time cleansed and stimulated in a most remarkable 
manner. This process is so extremely beneficial in enliven- 
ing the skin, that even where there is a tendency to irritate 
and become scaly, an occasional treatment will be found 
beneficial, while in all other conditions it is invariably 
productive of the desired results. 

In all of the treatments the negative galvanic current 
is employed unless there is a strong indication against its 
use. 

It has a tendency to soften and dissolve and hence is 
especially good for preliminary work. 



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136 I HE SKIN 

When used from a battery of cells, from six to eight 
cells may be brought into circuit at first, gradually increas- 
ing these as indicated. 

With a wall plate, about rive milliamperes may be 
used, adding or reducing as the occasion demands. 

The only indication against the use of the negative 
current is found in neuralgic cases in which this current 
acts as an irritant or in some instances where there are a 
great many rilled teeth. 

SOLUTIONS USED WITH ELECTROLYTIC CUP 

For ordinary skins, a salt solution is added to the 
water. This has an invigorating and also a slightly bleach- 
ing effect. 

For oily skins, a soda solution is useful as it cuts th^ 
oil, assists in removing the fatty acids and makes tlie-^lan 
more receptive. This solution is excellent before the re- 
moval of comedones. 

For irritated skins and especially in cases of acne 
where there is an obstinate trouble, a boracic acid solution 
is sometimes used with very warm water. 

For flabby skins the alum solution is excellent, though 
this is usually employed only in the cold water for closing 
the treatment. 

These solutions are kept in saturated form in large 
bottles and a half cup of the solution added to the water 
in the supply tank. 

Before attempting to use the cup on any one, the 
operator should practice on herself. She will soon find 
that it is extremely easy to maintain the suction and avoid 
spilling the water if she will observe these points : 

ist — See that there is a little water in the bucket to 
cover the end of the outlet tube, so that no air can be 



THE SKIN 137 

sucked into the tube and thus push the cup away from the 
face. 

2nd — Let the water run through the tube into the pail 
for a moment in order to find out if there is any obstruc- 
tion in the upper part of the tube. If there is, remove ii 
by the use of a long wire. Again test it to see if the 
obstruction is removed, and then if the water runs freely 
the treatment may be commenced. 

USE OF THE ELECTROLYTIC CUP 

As mentioned before, the cleansing cream may be left 
on the skin while the solutions are being prepared for the 
irrigating tank. The water must always be as warm as it 
can be borne with comfort. To avoid having it too warm, 
it should be tested by trying with the back of the hand. 

When the tank is filled and all is in readiness, the 
cleansing cream may be removed by a bit of soft cotton. 
The patient may then be given the electrode attached to 
the positive pole, while the negative cord is fastened to 
the arm from the inlet tube. From six to eight cells of 
the small battery may be used or from two to five milliam- 
peres of the large batter\'. adding or reducing the current 
according to the sensation experienced. 

Of course before applying the cup to the face, it will 
be plunged first in a formalin solution, and then in alco- 
hol or witch hazel in order that the skin may not be irritated. 

A very good idea after treatment is to cleanse the cup 
carefully and then leave a pledget of cotton in it that has 
first been dipped in the formalin solution. 

After cleansing the cup, it may be applied to the fleshy 
portion of the cheek, the shut off opened, and as soon as 
suction has been established, it may be gently guided about 
the face, following in general, the same rules for massage. 



138 T H E S K I N 

Great care should be taken to prevent the conducting 
cord and rubber tubing from touching the face. The out- 
let tube should always be pointed downward. With these 
precautions and a well established suction, but little diffi- 
culty should be encountered. 

The fingers should not be used to press the cup into 
the skin but merely as guides to assist in moving over the 
surface. Over the forehead, a little water may be spilled 
at first but a little practice soon makes perfect. 

In any event the operator should practice on herself 
day after day until she becomes sure of the way to use the 
cup. Nothing is more detrimental to business, more exas- 
perating to the patient or more harmful to the reputation 
of the operator than to have the cup give a shower bath 
instead of a facial treatment. 

Practice will positively prevent this, so when water is 
spilled it is inevitably a sign of a person who would not 
give to this subject the time and attention it deserves. 

The effect of the galvanic current taken in this man- 
ner is extremely exhilarating. Many tired women are so 
refreshed that they sleep right through it and awaken feel- 
ing marvelously rested. 

Some one has called the electrolytic treatment a "men- 
tal shower bath," and it really seems to deserve that title, 
because in addition to improving the skin it certainly rests 
and then stimulates the brain. 

In giving these treatments, it is well to fill the tank 
with water, thus giving two quarts of the solution at one 
treatment. In extremely obstinate conditions of the skin, 
some operators fill the tank twice. 

The galvanic current is indicated because of the spe- 
cial effect it has on the tissues, but the faradic current may 
be used instead when one has the request. The effect, how- 



T H E S K I N 139 

ever, will be entirely different and not at all the same results 
obtained. 

In a very few instances, owing to the presence of a 
number of filled teeth, the use of the electric current in 
any form produces a toothache. In such cases, the cup may 
be used with the solution indicated but omitting the use of 
current. 

Warm water is always used for the preliminary work. 
Following the massage treatment, the tank may be filled 
with cold water and the positive current used for the pur- 
pose of closing the pores and making the skin firm. In all 
of these instances, the alum solution will be found an excel- 
lent aid. 

Many operators use only the warm water for the first 
treatment, utilize the positive current by rolling the car- 
bon electrode over the face. This may answer in everything 
but a very flabby skin. In these cases, the beneficial re- 
sults of prolonged applications of cold water with the alum 
solution can hardly be over-estimated and too much atten- 
tion can hardly be paid to the neck and chin under these 
conditions, for it is in these portions that this tendency is 
apt to be most marked. 

Following the use of the electrolytic cup, the finger 
manipulations will always be given, and if the cup has been 
properly used with water at the right temperature and the 
solution indicated the beneficial effects of the treatment will 
be markedly increased. 





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CHAPTER XIV 

FACIAL MASSAGE 

Although there are many methods of facial massage, 
differing in manner of administration from the most vigor- 
ous to a very light form, in reality, there are very few 
operators who give what might be called a really beneficial 
treatment. 

Properly administered massage has to do with the 
muscles. The old expression, "the muscles are best fed 
when exercising," explains why a treatment should be deep 
enough to affect them. Merely skimming over a surface 
that has been thickly coated with cream is not massage. 
It may be called a superficial rubbing but that is all. 

Manipulation so deep that it discolors the flesh and 
makes the muscles sore is even worse, because instead of 
building up it breaks down the tissue by producing a per- 
manent soreness and develops sagging and flabbiness 
thereby. 

The happy medium must therefore be sought, and by 
that is meant the massage that is given with an under- 
standing of the muscular development as well as of the 
blood and nerve supply. 

This form of massage means a thorough treatment, not 
a skimming over the surface nor a punching process, but a 
method in which the skin is moved beneath the fingers, the 
muscles lifted, the blood supply stimulated, and the nerves 
soothed. 

True, a cream must be used, because otherwise the fric- 
tion caused by the contact of the fingers with the skin 

141 



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THE SKIN 143 

would produce an irritation, but there should never be more 
than just enough cream to allow the fingers to move slowly 
over the face. Too much makes it impossible to more than 
slide over the surface. 

Only a small amount of cream can be absorbed and 
hence the operator should use due care not to be so 
lavish in her application that she defeats the real purpose 
of her work. 

Persons with fleshy faces need, of course, more vig- 
orous treatment. Kneading the tissues is here quite neces- 
sary and deeper pressure must be used, being careful always 
to work against the blood supply. 

When the faces are thinner, lighter work is indicated, 
followed by a generous application of cream and a prolonged 
use of the red light. 

Extremely sensitive skins sometimes become irritated 
under even the lightest treatment but these are exceptions 
to the rule. 

In general, massage may be said to be a benefit to every 
skin excepting where on finding an exceptionally irritated 
condition. 

MASSAGE PRODUCES THESE RESULTS 

1st — An increase in blood and lymph supply. 

2nd — An improvement in the functions of the skin. 

3rd — A change for the better in color and texture of 
the skin. 

4th — An increase in nutrition through blood attracted 
to the surface from internal parts. 

5th — Effete matter is destroyed. 

6th — Nerves are either stimulated or soothed, depend- 
ing on treatment. 



THE SKIN 145 

7th— Wrinkles are eradicated, especially the superficial 
line, while even the deeper ones are less pronounced. 

8th — Muscles are developed and tissues made firmer. 

9th — A youthful expression is imparted to the face 
by obliterating the habit and worry lines. 

In addition to the effect produced by the manipulation 
much more good is accomplished by selecting the cream 
appropriate for each condition. 

Tissue food should always be used when the skin is 
dry, scaly or poorly nourished and also when it is inclined 
to slight irritation. 

Acne cream is indicated in oily and large pored skins 
and in all cases of blackheads and pimples. 

Whitening cream is used when the skin is sallow or 
covered with patches or where one desires to bleach it a 
few shades lighter. 

Just enough of the cream should be applied to make 
the work of manipulation easy. The balls of the fingers 
should be used for all but the stroking work, and in every 
event the finger nails should not be long enough to interfere 
with the use of the fingers. 

The masseuse who gives the best treatment will be the 
one who keeps her hands soft and pliable. For this reason 
it is well for her to avoid any work that will tend to roughen 
them. 

After applying the cream, the operator should select a 
definite plan of treatment. Whether she begins at the chin 
or the forehead is not so material as that she goes right 
through the work without slighting any portion of the face. 

Ordinarily it is well to begin at the forehead, and 
follow these directions, and always moving the skin beneath 
the fingers. 




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THE SKIN 147 

HOW TO GIVE THE MASSAGE MOVEMENTS 

Begin at left temple of forehead, using the first two 
fingers of each hand in a straight up and down movement, 
back and forth from temple to temple, and using a slight 
pressure over each temple at the finish of the fifth time. 

Go over forehead again the same number of times, this 
time with a circular movement, with skin kept firmly be- 
tween the fingers of the one hand while the first two fingers 
of the other hand are engaged in the circular movement. 

Lines between the eyes or right over the bridge of 
the nose should also be treated at this time by gently hold- 
ing the flesh between the thumb and first finger of one hand 
while the other two first fingers are used for rotating over 
the surface. 

About the eyes, a circular movement is given. The 
flesh is held firmly between the thumb and the first finger of 
the one hand while the other two fingers are used for gently 
moving the flesh from the outer portion of the eye toward 
the nose, there the fingers separate and one is placed over 
the other just beneath the eyebrow and they are moved back 
to the edge, when again the circular movement is given. 
This should be repeated with each eye five times. 

The nose is treated according to the type. If the nos- 
trils are dilated, manipulate from forehead to nostrils and 
always working against blood supply. 

With a very thin nose, the nostrils may be rubbed up- 
ward, though manipulation from forehead must be straight 
down and against blood supply at each side of the nose. 

Nose to mouth lines are treated by resting the thumb 
at each side of the nose, then using the first and second 
fingers of each hand to gently lift flesh from the corners of 
the mouth up toward the side of the nose. The thumbs 



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THE SKIN 149 

must remain stationary and manipulation must always be 
upward. 

When lines are very deep, one finger covered with cot- 
ton may be placed inside the mouth and the other manipu- 
lated over the most conspicuous portions. 

The mouth is massaged by placing the forefinger 
directly in the center below the nose and then drawing 
the other fingers from the corners of the mouth toward the 
center, repeating a similar process with the lower lip, by 
holding finger stationary in center and drawing fingers from 
each corner. 

The chin should be treated by a sort of wringing move- 
ment, using first one hand and then the other. 

Cheeks should be treated by deep stroking motion, 
drawing the first forefingers of each hand from chin, cor- 
ners of mouth and side of nose out and upward, always 
ending w T ith a slight pressure above the masseter muscle. 
In this treatment always be careful not to rub in new lines. 
With very thin, flabby skins it is sometimes necessary to 
keep the thumbs stationary just above the ear and then use 
a gentle stroking movement. 

When the cheeks are thin and hollow a plucking move- 
ment should also be used in the center of each cheek. 

The neck should always be treated with a downward 
movement, afterward bringing the fingers about at the 
side toward the back of the neck and using a lifting move- 
ment first on the sternomastoid directly at the side of each 
ear. This may be repeated several times. 

Next the same downward motion from the chin and 
around to the trapezius with slight pressure and a lifting 
movement. This should be repeated at least three times. 
Finally the same movement should be given, using the 




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THE SKIN 151 

pressure not only on the trapezius but continuing it up to 
the occipitalis. 

When the chin is very flabby, the downward stroking 
movements should be given with the flat of the hand and 
gentle pressure. 

When there is a hard, firm double chin, then the knead- 
ing movement may be given, using the thumb and fore- 
finger for the purpose of reducing the fat cells. 

The ear should not be neglected but should be given 
a gentle, stroking treatment in front, beneath and at the 
back. 

In addition to the lifting movement given at the back 
of the head, an excellent addition will be found a few down- 
ward strokes on the spine itself. 

The massage treatment is usually finished by a very 
gentle stroking upward on the '.heeks over the eyes and 
across the forehead called "rest movements. " 

AFTER THE MASSAGE 

Following the manipulation comes the work of remov- 
ing every trace of the cream from the face. This is best 
accomplished by using the lavender lotion for all parts of 
the skin, not forgetting the ears or the nostrils. 

About the hair alcohol can be used. Especial care 
must be taken to remove every trace from the eyebrows 
and beneath the eyes too, as otherwise a greasy appearance 
is sure to be noted. 

When every trace has been removed, the treatment 
may either be finished by the use of the electrolytic massage 
with cold water and the alum solution or the positive elec- 
trode may be used by rolling it slowly over the face, first 
of course wrapping it in cotton that has been saturated in 
one of the following solutions : 




u 

+-> 

fa 

o 



THE SKIN 153 

Antiseptic lotion will be used for very oily or very 
dark skins (this is for closing the pores only), for bleaching 
it always use the negative pole. 

Alum solution is always used for flabby skins or for 
very large pores. 

Plain cold water for very sensitive skins or those easily 
irritated. 

Should the patient complain that her face burns a bit, 
she must assure her that this is the result of a stimulat- 
ing treatment, advise her not to use soap and water for 
the next few days, and especially emphasize the use of 
cream indicated by condition of skin and powder as a pro- 
tection. 

Then the head-band should be carefully removed to 
avoid disarranging the hair, the waist buttoned, pins put 
in place, and any necessary help with the wraps tendered 
as a matter of course. In short, in every instance the 
patient should be treated as one's guest and should be 
made as comfortable as possible. If she happens to be 
disagreeable, the operator should not follow a bad example, 
but set her a good one, by being more than courteous, 
always remembering that it is the little things that count. 
She should consider too that if even a "crank" goes away 
from her shop looking better than when she came in, she 
w T ill be a living and strong, though possibly unconscious, 
advertisement for the work. 

LAVENDER LOTION 

This lotion is excellent for removing all trace of oil, 
is most agreeable to use, and is easily prepared, but in 
securing the oil of lavender always get the oil of the flower, 
as it is much more agreeable. 




.£3 

H 
sa 

.2 
» 
o 

l-H 

P 



THE SKIN 155 

It is made as follows : 

i dram aromatic spirits of ammonia. 

30 drops of oil of sweet lavender flowers. 

1 quart distilled water. 

2 teaspoonsful bicarbonate soda. 

Add the oil to the ammonia and pour into the water. 
Shake well and then last add the bicarbonate of soda. 



CHAPTER XV 

I 

THE PROPER USE OF COSMETICS 

Just as attention to the smallest detail denotes the 
expert in any line, so, too, in this work of caring for the 
skin, the art of using cosmetics must be thoroughly under- 
stood if the greatest success is to be reached. 

No one dreams of appearing on the street with a ragged 
hem at the bottom of the skirt, or a soiled shirtwaist, or 
a gown that needs pressing — why then not show an equal 
amount of common sense about the face, hair, and hands, 
and appear at least well-groomed on all occasions. 

If through ill health, late hours or hard work, the roses 
have departed from the cheek, and the skin looks drawn 
and worn, surely it is better to allow a knowledge of these 
matters to so supplement Nature that one can always be 
sure of appearing well. 

Treatments properly given, certainly rest and refresh 
the patient. 

But, how about preparing the face for the street, after 
the treatment ? 

If you stop and say to the patient — "Shall I use 
powder and rouge?" — nine times out of ten the answer will 
be the same, for she will remark emphatically, "Certainly 
not r 

For that reason then do not consult her, but prepare 
to make her look as attractive and as natural as possible, 
remembering all the time you are demonstrating the use 
not the abuse of cosmetics. 

Directly after the face has been finished by the use of 

157 



158 THE SKIN 

the last lotion, the work of making it more attractive begins. 

Every particle of oil should be removed before using 
any powder, unless the skin is very rough, in that case if 
you use dry powder, a little Tissue Food should be rubbed 
in first. 

But in any event, if the complexion is a bit sallow, 
or perhaps colorless, rouge should be applied first. 

However, before proceeding to the description of how 
to use these various aids to the toilet, in order to impress 
on you that even the scientific men have many of them 
agreed that good cosmetics are harmless, just read this 
clipping from one of the New York papers : 

"The use of face creams and makeups is universal and 
the moral aspect of the question is becoming settled. Our 
women now fearlessly and scientifically handle the com- 
plexion brush, the face cream and the powder puff. Why 
is the face of a country woman of 60 years faded and 
wrinkled, while the face of a city woman of the same 
age frequently is smooth and beautiful? On account of 
protection against the elements. The city woman has been 
using her cream and powder for forty years, and has yet 
to experience any deleterious effects. 

"The idea that the faces of actresses are old looking 
off the stage is pure superstition. Many an actress courted 
of our fathers has a complexion the envy of our daughters. 
These are things the physicians should know and not be 
afraid to say." 

Now, with these recommendations to spur you on, go 
at your work, remembering always, that in order to appre- 
ciate what cosmetics can do for others, they will also do 
for you. 

Little difficulties can be explained, ways of doing things 
made clear far easier if you know from practical every 



THE SKIN 159 

day experience just what can be done, and if you show by 
your own appearance that you "practice what you preach." 

SELECTING A ROUGE 

There are three kinds to choose from — the liquid, paste 
and dry. 

The liquid comes in two shades — light and dark, and 
has the convenience of sticking on until cream is used to 
remove it. Ordinarily water does not affect it. 

It is best applied in this manner : Take a piece of 
gauze and moisten it with some toilet water. Then hold 
it against the rouge bottle, and reverse the bottle so that 
a large drop of rouge is deposited on one side of the gauze. 
Quickly rub this portion against the other to spread the 
color and then apply to the cheeks quickly, going over the 
surface with the finger tips to spread the color evenly. 

For a very blonde woman the lightest shade is of course 
selected. Brunettes look best when the darkest color is 
used. 

After applying sufficient color to the cheeks, the paste 
rouge is used for tinting the lobes of the ears and the lips. 

Just a suspicion of color is sometimes given to the eye- 
lids also. 

For the lips, the color is applied on a bit of gauze 
and is used on the inside first, then the outer edge is con- 
sidered and the "Cupid's Bow" accentuated. 

If on the contrary a paste rouge is preferred for the 
cheeks also, it is applied very easily by using the tips of 
the fingers and rubbing it in well. 

The dry rouge is applied after the powder, not before. 

None of these preparations are in any way harmful. 
They may be used every day, and even several times a day 
if necessity compels. 



160 T H E S K I N 

APPLYING THE POWDER 

With the face nicely tinted, next comes the choice of 
a powder. Here again we have several things to consider. 

If dry powder is to be used, the tint nearest the skin 
must be selected. For the woman of ordinary coloring, 
cream or flesh will be best, the brunette shade being used 
only on darker complexions. 

Weird shades, such as mauve or green or deep ochre, 
are neither practical nor becoming, and are rarely employed 
except by extremists. 

In employing the powder, never rub it on the skin. 
Instead use the bits of gauze to pat it all over the surface 
of the face and neck liberally. Then with the flat portion 
of the hands go over the surface and gently rub it in, apply- 
ing more if the skin needs it. In this manner, the skin is 
actually protected from the bad effects of sun and wind, 
and powder will be found of undoubted and excellent 
benefit. 

For evening use, the liquid powder has for years been 
popular, as it can be employed on both neck and arms to 
excellent advantage. 

A recent innovation in powders though has made a 
new form very popular, for it seems to combine utility 
with real cosmetic value. 

This powder comes in cake form in small porcelain 
receptacles, but it lacks the feeling of powder, for to the 
sense of touch it seems more like a cream. 

Absolutely harmless, it has a number of remarkable 
qualities. When properly applied, it defies detection, does 
not rub off on the clothing and is not affected by perspira- 
tion or cold water, but must be removed by the use of a 
cleansing cream. 



THE SKIN 161 

It is applied by rubbing a piece of gauze or a sponge 
that has first been moistened with a toilet water, over the 
surface of the cake, and then over the face, neck or hands. 
The tips of the fingers are then used swiftly over the sur- 
face to blend the powder, before dry. 

In a few moments the surface is uniformly covered, 
and yet there is no trace of powder, nor is there any arti- 
ficial appearance. 

For the neck and hands this powder is a positive boon. 

Over the inflamed surfaces such as in acne cases it is 
excellent. 

Before going on an outing expedition it cannot be 
excelled. 

However, in using it one must guard against having 
any trace of oil on the skin before applying it, as otherwise 
it will positively not adhere, for oil is the one agent that 
removes it. 

With this choice of powders no woman should be at 
sea as to what she may use. 

FINISHING THE TREATMENT 

Caring for the Eyelashes, Eyebrozvs and Hair 

After the powder has been applied comes the task of 
removing all traces from the eyelashes by means of a small 
brush darkened with the water cosmetique. A very good way 
to do this is to have a bit of gauze placed on the cheek 
directly under the eyes and then request the patient to close 
her eyes. When she does so, the brush can be used on 
the lashes against the gauze, thus removing the powder 
and darkening the eyelashes at the same time. 

The eyebrows should then be outlined, taking care to 
shape them in a fine line, not a broad effect. 



162 THE SKIN 

Next the hair line about the face should be visited 
with the brush, taking away all signs of the powder, and 
often at the same time covering up any unwelcome hints 
of age as shown in the first white hairs. 

The water cosmetique, by the way, has often done 
much in that line, for it takes but a moment to apply and 
does conceal the white or discolored hair. 

THE LAST TOUCH 

With the face and neck made presentable, and the 
head-band removed, 'tis well to glance at the upper part of 
the forehead to see that no space has been left untreated. 

Then, just to add to the comfort of the patron, spray 
some toilet water over her chest, and if you have followed 
directions you will have succeeded in pleasing five of the 
seven senses. Your patient will see that she looks better, 
and this will make her feel happy. Her fingers will touch 
skin that is pliable and attractive. She will hear your 
words of advice, smell the delicate flower odors and un- 
doubtedly will speak of your good work. 



CHAPTER XVI 

WRINKLES, THEIR CAUSE AND TREATMENT 

Even though some people do assert that wrinkles are 
a mark of an intellectual woman, there are a very few 
who gaze with anything resembling pride on the first faint 
tracing of the crow's feet about the eyes, the puckery lines 
in the mouth or the long, deep lines on the forehead. 

When wrinkles occur early in life, unless there has 
been an illness or much exposure to sun and air without 
due protection, the cause may usually be found in some 
habit. 

Raising the eyebrows, scowling, squinting, an attempt 
to look interested by indulging in facial gymnastics, all aid 
in the early foundation of marks that certainly do not add 
to the beauty of the face. 

Wrinkles that form before the person is 25 are nearly 
always of this variety and can be easily removed by proper 
applications, the necessary massage and by insisting that 
the patient cure herself of the habit of contorting her 
features by pasting bits of court paster over the portions 
most lined, after the face has been rubbed smooth. 

The woman who can be persuaded to promise this and 
who actually keeps this promise will be decidedly surprised 
to find how often she is tempted to raise her brows or to 
scowl, and how much easier it is to resist when these "re- 
minders" are on guard. 

Over-tired, hard-working women, often awake in the 
morning with more creases in their faces than when they 
retired at night. Sometimes these lines come because they 

163 



164 THE SKIN 

have been dreaming and actively engaged in some task or 
other during this time. At others, it will be found that the 
early morning sun streaming into the room causes the brows 
to contract before the person is awake. 

Once more court plaster will do much to overcome this 
tendency. 

Other causes of these premature wrinkles may be found 
in the use of cosmetics containing metallic astringents, or 
some of the highly perfumed "greaseless creams" may also 
assist in the work. Strongly alkaline washes and bleaches, 
undiluted alcohol, too much benzoin, in fact, all prepara- 
tions that have an intensely drying effect on the face have 
a tendency to cause the appearance of lines. 

Ordinary soap and water must not be overlooked, for 
the soap decreases and removes the supply of natural oil 
and exposure to the air after such a cleansing often makes 
the skin chap and become covered with small lines. 

Ill health is another factor in causing lines to appear, 
and in most instances of this kind the skin seems poorly 
nourished as well, while the lines appear by the dozen, 
crossing and recrossing the flesh until the face looks like a 
bit of patchwork. When the skin has the feeling of parch- 
ment, the lines are apt to be particularly hard to erase, and 
constant inunctions of oil are necessary to make the com- 
plexion even presentable. 

Mechanical appliances are responsible for much trouble 
and the use of the face steamer may be mentioned as 
being particularly harmful. The intense heat extracts the 
fat from the tissues and in time produces a flabby condition 
of the skin. The pores become large and the wrinkles form 
quickly. Another potent cause of trouble in this respect 
may be found in the small glass arrangement provided with 
a rubber bulb. By placing the glass upon the face and 



THE SKIN 165 

compressing the bulb, the flesh is drawn into the glass by 
suction. True, the blood rushes to the surface, and the skin 
becomes uniformly pink, but the mischief comes from the 
undue stretching that assists in producing fresh lines in- 
stead of removing the old ones. 

Treatment for wrinkles will be found always and ever 
to consist of the proper manipulation given at frequent 
intervals, the absolute disuse of soap and water, and the 
use of cleansing cream whenever water would otherwise 
be indicated. If a whitening cream is also imperative, the 
tissue food should be used at night and the whitening cream 
in the morning. 

The following special treatments have been also used 
with excellent results, making the skin feel smooth and 
firm. 

Although the surgical treatment is described, it must 
be remembered that this treatment refers only to cases that 
are of long standing and extremely obstinate. Ordinary 
treatments such as these described will usually keep the 
average skin quite free from deep creases. 

If the skin seems extremely dry, the tissue food may 
be applied and rubbed in gently, and if there is a scaly 
appearance when the dry powder is applied, the acacia balm 
may be used instead. 

The astringent mask is also excellent for oily skins 
and will produce very good results when used frequently, 
remembering, of course, that the skin must be very oily 
to demand a treatment of this kind. The lotion may be 
used to finish a face of this kind, as the tissue food would 
only aggravate the condition. 

Many times one will find skins in which either the 
astringent mask or wrinkle treatment will be really impos- 



166 THE SKIN 

sible. Either one causes a dry, peeling effect, and seems 
to cause new lines instead of obliterating the old ones. 

In faces of this type, there are apt to be numberless 
fine lines. The skin appears shriveled and poorly nourished 
as well as anaemic, while to the touch it is like parchment 
— lifeless and dry. 

Massage treatments with a great deal of the faradic 
current may in these cases be followed by the prolonged use 
of the red light with a liberal application of tissue food. 

The electrolytic cup may be used occasionally because 
of the deep, stimulating effect it produces. Positive elec- 
tricity may always be employed to close the treatment but 
as a rule no water should ever touch a skin of this kind. 

The vigorous manipulation with faradism should be 
given before the application of much tissue food, for too 
much cream prevents the giving of a good massage treat- 
ment. Immediately after this manipulation, however, a 
generous amount of cream may be placed over the face, 
neck and ears, then the light should be moved gently and 
slowly over all portions so treated for a few moments be- 
fore the rotary work usually done by the tips of the fingers. 
The amount of cream absorbed in this manner will really be 
found quite astonishing. A marked improvement in ap- 
pearance follows every treatment of this kind. 

With extremely dry skins, treatments may be given 
every day when possible. Otherwise they should be given 
at least three times a week, and, of course, the tissue food 
should be used religiously every night before retiring. If 
whitening cream is necessary it may be used to finish the 
treatment or in the morning, but not at night. 

A skin of this kind resembles nothing so much as a 
piece of leather that has been exposed to the air, been 
thoroughly wet and allowed to dry quickly. At first sight, 



THE SKIN 167 

it seems impossible one could make use of it again. It is 
harsh and disagreeable to the touch. A little oil is applied, 
rubbed in and in a very few moments the leather is as soft 
and pliable as before. Experienced travelers make use of 
this fact to keep their boots in good condition. 

Surely then, the most conspicuous part of the human 
being — the face — should receive as much consideration as 
the traveler's boots. 

With advancing years, lines and a change in the tex- 
ture and color of the skin have been considered as natural 
consequences. Care can and should retard the arrival of 
these conditions for fully ten or fifteen years beyond the 
generally accepted age. 

Just the ordinary things that should be done each day 
seem to be the most difficult for the average human being. 
People will suffer for hours rather than work patiently 
each day for a few moments. Wrinkles may be removed or 
at least made less noticeable but it takes patient daily work 
as well as the treatments to accomplish these results. Hence 
the operator should always bear in mind the necessity for 
home work on the part of her patients and should also 
impress upon them the fact that assisting nature is much 
more sensible than overwhelming her with impossible de- 
mands. 



CHAPTER XVII 

COSMETIC SURGERY IN TREATMENT OF DEEP WRINKLED, 

FOLDS, BAGS, AND WRINKLES ABOUT THE EYES, 

HOLLOWS AND CREASES AND SMALL POX 

PITTINGS 

DEEP WRINKLES 

Multitudinous wrinkles appearing on faded or sallow 
skins oftentimes mean serious worry to the operator who 
hopes to banish this appearance by means of a series of 
treatments. If the condition has been of long standing, 
treatments will improve the appearance but cannot cure the 
trouble. 

Here, the conscientious cosmetic surgeon will find a 
field for some of his best work. 

The treatment is not one that could be understood or 
given by any one not especially trained in the work. 

It consists, of course, in a method of removing the 
cuticle, but the most successful method is not as yet gener- 
ally known. 

The patient is obliged to remain in complete seclusion 
for from ten days to two weeks. After three weeks the 
skin will bear exposure and in from four to five weeks it 
will have regained a normal appearance. 

By this method, the weakened and relaxed underlying 
facial muscles are carefully strengthened and built up. The 
action of the cutis or true skin is re-invigorated and in a 
surprisingly short time the youthful color and contour are 
restored to the face. No matter how deep the wrinkles, 

168 



THE SKIN 169 

how faded, sallow or leathery the complexion, this system 
produces the desired effect, changing the texture of the 
skin so completely that it once more assumes its original, 
clear, smooth and velvety appearance. 

Before going on further to describe other surgical 
methods, emphasis must be placed on the fact that only 
the proper treatment will produce this result. 

Many faces have been marred for life by unscrupulous 
and unskilled operators who, with a bare smattering of 
the first crude principles of featural work, have sought to 
delude the public and in return have brought even the 
best of the operators under a suspicion that nothing but 
years of patient work can push aside. 

The cases that will be illustrated here are those that 
have been aided by a surgeon who has spent years in per- 
fecting his methods. He has many original treatments, 
does not for an instant pretend that every one may be 
made beautiful, refuses to take any case unless he honestly 
feels that the person may be benefited, and as a consequence 
is noted for the successful and artistic work that he does. 

Much of the cosmetic surgeon's best work is done for 
the relief of unfortunates who have been shockingly injured 
in railway accidents. 

Frequently, if it were not for the skill of experts in 
these lines, people so afflicted would be obliged to spend 
the balance of their lives in seclusion owing to the hor- 
rible conditions in which their faces have been mutilated. 

In other instances, where perhaps a lucrative position 
is hanging in the balance, this skill has resulted in helping 
a person who would otherwise be dismissed, to retain a 
paying and desirable position. 

Hence, it must be borne in mind that no matter how 



170 THE SKIN 

many bad results have been obtained by poor operators, 
uniformly excellent results will always be obtained by ex- 
perts in every case that is accepted as one that may be 
benefited. , ■ 

USE OF TISSUE BUILDERS FOR DEEP CREASES AND 

HOLLOWS 

In many instances although the skin is of firm tex- 
ture, there are found deep creases between the eyes, lines 
almost like gashes running from the nose to the corners of 
the mouth with a drooping at the corners and a hollow in 
each cheek that makes the unfortunate person so afflicted 
resemble a homeless orphan. 

Desirous of remedying these conditions, some special- 
ists decided that an injection of paraffin would be excellent 
in such cases. In a few cases the success was apparently 
what had been hoped for, but in the majority of cases hard 
lumps formed or an infection was caused or some other 
trouble resulted. 

As a consequence there is hardly an operator in the 
United States that has not at least two or three patients 
under treatment who have suffered from this form of treat- 
ment 

Many of them have been compelled to have an opera- 
tion performed in order to have it removed. 

A little later than the paraffin filling came the use of a 
softer substance that seemed to do the work until it was 
found that this, too, caused trouble. 

Unless very carefully used it seems to fill in the wrong 
places, so altering the expression that the lady who had 
been thin suddenly appeared as though she was suffering 
from the mumps, and instead of this appearance vanishing 



T H E S K I N 171 

in a few days it remained as a permanent evidence of the 
treatment. 

So apparently easy was the injection of this soft fill- 
ing that many women in business embarked in the work. 
Utterly ignorant of anything but the fact that they pro- 
duced the apparatus and material necessary for the opera- 
tion they have persisted in their attempts until today the 
reliable operator hardly knows what to believe and what 
to condemn. 

For the benefit of those w 7 ho are really anxious to. 
know what may be safely done I can say there is a treat- 
ment known as the "Tissue Builder." 

This can be safely injected not only in the hollow 
places but also in deep creases. A certain portion of it is 
absorbed, the rest remains for at least two or three years, 
acting as a tonic and stimulant to the tissues at first, then 
gradually becoming assimilated. 

It is needless to say that this operation can be per- 
formed properly only by a specialist and should never be 
attempted by any one who is not a graduate physician. 
The process is harmless, not at all painful, and is quickly 
done. 

In ordinary cases, but one sitting is necessary, though 
when more work is to be done two or maybe three treat- 
ments will be advisable. 

This treatment is of especial advantage in taking away 
the cross look caused by the line between the eyes as well 
as in banishing the surly, discontented expression that comes 
from the deep nose to mouth lines and drooping corners. 

It frequently takes away ten years from the appearance 
of age and may be unhesitatingly recommended to the 
woman who finds it necessary to look youthful for business 
or professional reasons. 



172 THE SKIN 

FOLDS, BAGS AND WRINKLES OF THE SKIN ABOUT THE EYES 

These folds and wrinkles frequently develop prema- 
turely about the eyes, adding years to the apparent age. 
Bagginess, too, sometimes imparts a dissipated air, not only 
adding to the appearance of age but also so revolting to 
sensitive persons that relief is earnestly sought. 

This condition is easily, effectively and painlessly rem- 
edied by the excision of a crescent of skin just below the 
eye. The width of the crescent will, of course, vary with 
the depth of the wrinkles or the size of the folds. By so 
arranging that the concave portion of this crescent lies 
close to the lashes along the lower lid, the line of union is 
brought in this manner under the shadow of the lashes 
and is entirely invisible. 

The artistic operator never in any way takes away 
from the expression of the eye in this w r ork but sometimes 
has actually made an improvement by this skillful manner 
in which the crescent has been shaped, while, of course, the 
bagginess or folds for which the operation was originally 
sought will be removed permanently by the chipping away 
of the extra flesh. 

This operation is not at all injurious to the eye, and 
does not make seclusion necessary. 

REMOVING THE FOLD ABOVE THE EYE 

Drooping eyelids impart such a suspicious, sinister 
expression to the face that frequently relief is sought for 
that reason alone, though, of course, often this extra fold 
of skin has been known to interfere with the eyesight, too. 

The operation is comparatively simple, and as painless 
as that for folds beneath the eyes, consisting simply in cut- 
ting away the excess of tissue and making an accurate clos- 
ure of the skin margins. 



THE SKIN 173 

After-treatment and proper dressings are in this in- 
stance rather important, so as to prevent any strain upon 
the sutures. 

FLABBY SKINS 

When the skin is extremely flabby sections are fre- 
quently removed and the appearance remarkably improved. 
This is sometimes the case when the forehead is very much 
lined and the skin extremely loose. 

The "side operation/' as it is called, for lifting the 
muscles that have sagged at each side of the face is not as a 
rule successful; that is, it is not a permanent success and 
so is not especially recommended, excepting in extreme 
cases. 

Actresses and other professional women frequently in- 
sist on this operation and cheerfully have it repeated every 
ten years. 

SMALL POX PITTINGS 

The dread and horror with which for generations that 
fell disease, small-pox, was regarded, is due in no slight 
measure to the knowledge of the ravages it leaves in its 
wake. A face scarred and pitted by small-pox is a perpet- 
ual source of mental suffering to its unfortunate possessor. 
However, these sufferers need no longer despair. Their 
faces can be rendered smooth, their complexions as roseate 
as before they fell victims to the disease. 

The cure is as radical in its nature as it is complete and 
permanent. It consists of the deft eradication of the defec- 
tive tissue w r hich forms the scar or pitting and the subse- 
quent production of a new cellular growth which allows 
new living tissue to take the place of the inert matter that 
has been removed. The success of this treament largely 
depends on the stimulating effect produced on the surround- 



174 THE SKIN 

ing surface of the skin, and the encouragement of a more 
perfect circulation. Nature is thereby herself assisted to 
repair the ravages of the disease. The treatment extends 
over a comparatively short space of time and is attended 
by the minimum of inconvenience to the patient. 

In closing the chapter on surgical treatment of these 
various defects the writer realizes fully that it will be diffi- 
cult for many women in business to accept these statements 
literally. Most cases which they have seen are those where 
the work has been improperly done. 

The woman who has been successfully treated rarely 
tells of it, and often denies absolutely that she ever thought 
of such a thing. It is for this reason that very good work 
as well as really good operators are often unknown outside 
of a select clientele. 

Cosmetic surgery does not pretend to cure every one, 
but the average results are so wonderful that it pays well 
to know something about it. 

It does not take away from the income of the woman 
in business, but rather adds to it, for the honest cosmetic 
surgeon always urges his patrons to keep up the massage 
and stimulating treatments as a manner of preserving the 
health of the skin. 

So, when it is properly understood, this work will be 
appreciated at its full worth and as a consequence those 
who have really suffered by reason of years of neglect may 
be helped speedily and thereafter become grateful as well 
as constant patrons of the woman who knew what could be 
done for their benefit. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

REMODELING EARS, EXCISING SCARS AND MAKING DIMPLES 
BY COSMETIC SURGERY 

So much truly remarkable work is done by the clever 
cosmetic surgeon that the person who has really been ini- 
tiated into the possibilities of the work and has seen the 
originals of all the "Before and After" series, invariably 
becomes enthusiastic. 

This condition is natural, for who wants to look at 
hook noses, thick lips and floppy ears when it is not neces- 
sary? 

Landscape gardening is all very well and a nice thing 
in its way. "The City Beautiful," with its well-kept parks, 
and white uniformed helpers, looks well in print and is 
agreeable in reality, but to make the picture complete in 
every detail, the people who visit the park should be kept 
up to standard. In this age there is really no excuse for 
repulsive looking faces. The featural architect can so plan 
that every unnecessary bump, hump and fold may be re- 
moved quickly and painlessly; and in every case that is 
accepted one may be sure the work will also be successful. 

There is really nothing at all mysterious about this 
work, though some way the general impression has gone 
out that every detail is hidden by a veil of mystery. 

With operators who are not sure of themselves this 
may be true, but the expert usually explains every step of 
the process, tells his patients what may and may not be 
expected, and leaves it to their common sense to decide 
which of one or two methods will be the best for a particular 
case. 

175 



176 THE SKIN 

The bad results obtained by those who call themselves 
cosmetic surgeons may, it is true, be seen on every side, 
but that does not in the least alter the fact that excellent 
work is done and that almost unbelievable results are really 
secured by conscientious specialists. 

There are perhaps fewer successful operators in this 
field than in any other because of the necessity for a com- 
bination of qualities not possessed by many people. In 
addition to scientific knowledge and skill must be added a 
comprehension of due proportion, an artistic sense as it 
were, that will enable the surgeon to make the incision just 
where it is most needed, inject the tissue builder where it 
will fill out the hollow without producing a puffy appear- 
ance, remove the folds from beneath the eyes without chang- 
ing the expression, and alter the shape of the nose in such 
a manner that no scar is visible. 

Because some one has gone to a doctor who did not 
know his business and has been scarred for life is no reason 
why the clever surgeon, who knows his work thoroughly, 
should suffer. 

The woman in business sees evidence of the bad work 
that has been done every day. She ought also to know of 
the good work, how and why it may be done — recom- 
mended in order that she may be able to advise her patients 
honestly. 

Many times the operation which may seem trivial to 
her will be the means of bestowing unmeasured peace of 
mind upon the person who has for years been seeking for 
some improvement. 

Scarless operations are not myths. They are realities 
and are performed daily with excellent results. But all 
operators are not uniformly skillful, hence the differences 
of opinion regarding the merits of this branch of work. 



THE SKIN 177 

One of the most frequently observed defects, and one 
that certainly makes a great difference in the appearance is 
that of 

OUTSTANDING EARS 

Before detailing methods of operating for the correct- 
ing of the unduly prominent or outstanding ear it is well to 
call attention to the factors most frequently causing this 
condition so that efforts may be encouraged at the proper 
time in life to prevent the development of the condition. 

There is no doubt 
that in early childhood 
a headdress which turns 
the ear outward and for- 
ward and holds it in this 
position, if used contin- 
ously over a considerable 
time, will produce a per- 
manent effect upon the 






) 



position of the ear. The Outstanding Ears, Before Operatiou 

physician should always note among the children of his 
patrons the use of a headdress that holds the ears in an 
abnormal position, and should advise against the use of 
such, and in any child where a tendency exists for the ear 
to project unduly the parents should have their attention 
called to the condition and be influenced, if possible, to 
adopt a plan of bandaging during the night to hold the ears 
snugly against the side of the head. A simple bandage 
devised for this purpose may be applied during the night 
without discomfort to the child. By tact and persuasion a 
child may be influenced to have no objection to the con- 
trivance. 

The use of such simple means in early childhood, if 



17S THE SKIN 

persisted in will, in very many instances, correct the con- 
dition satisfactorily. After adult life is reached the possi- 
bilities of good results following this plan of treatment are 
greatly diminished. 

Attention has been called to the greater frequency of 
outstanding ears in women than in men, and it has been 
given as an explanation that the habit of wearing the hair 
long, and dressed in certain fashions, is responsible for the 
development of the condition. Parents should be warned 

of this and should not 
allow a plan of dressing 
the hair of their children 
which is likely to press 
the ear outward. 

The normal angle 
of the ear to the head 
varies from ten to forty 

After Operation de S reeS > and an 0T S* n 

(Courtesy of Dr. g. a. Ward) which exceeds this angle 

to any appreciable extent is usually conspicuous as an out- 
standing ear unless it be quite small. 

Sometimes the small ear which appears very unsatis- 
factory will be greatly improved by an altered position. 

The operation for the correction of this trouble is not 
especially difficult and in some instances does not necessi- 
tate the removal of any cartilage. 

After the incision has been made and the ear drawn 
into the position it ought to occupy, the sutures are placed 
in such a manner that it is drawn closer to the head and 
kept m position until the wound has healed. 

A bandage is usually worn for the first three or four 
days in order to keep the ears from pulling away. At the 
most, this bandage will be unnecessary after the sixth day, 




THE SKIN 179 

so there is but little inconvenience attendant on the opera- 
tion. 

RECONSTRUCTION OF THE EAR 

Where, for some cause, the ear has been entirely lost, 
it is a problem whether to attempt to reconstruct the ear 
from the soft parts about the site of the organ, or to recom- 
mend the wearing of an artificial ear. 

In women, it is frequently advisable to attempt the 
reconstruction of the auricle, for the hair may be worn in 
such a manner that the ear may be more or less hidden. 

With men this is a more difficult matter and hence the 
false ear is frequently advised. 

THE EXCESSIVELY LARGE EAR 

Occasionally the surgeon is requested to diminish the 
size of one ear in order to make it match the ear on the 
other side. The operation is not so easily performed, as 
the operator must carefully judge as to the extent the ear 
can be reduced. 

Accurate measures as to the amount of tissue that 
must be removed will be necessary. The operation is ex- 
tremely delicate and very difficult, but an improvement can 
be made in nearly every case unless the difference between 
the ears is caused by one being excessively small and the 
other extremely large. 

REDUCTION OF THE SIZE OF THE LOBULE 

Lobules are frequently so unusually large and thick 
that they appear like appendages to the ear rather than 
parts of it. In cases of this kind surgical measures will be 
found of great assistance and a decided improvement can 
be promised. 



180 THE SKIN 

ADHERENT AND UNDEVELOPED LOBULE 

A very common condition is that in which the inner 
margin of the lobule of the ear is attached to the head. 
This is a condition that often mars the appearance because 
it so often increases the resemblance of the human ear to 
those of the lower animals. The operation for this defect 
is not particularly difficult, varying, of course, with the 
type of ear presented. The result is seen in a marvelously 
improved expression to the face as well as the change in 
the appearance of the ear. 

REPAIR OF CLEFTS OR FISSURES IN THE EXTERNAL EAR 

Frequently the tearing out of an earring is followed 
by the appearance of a deep scar or cleft. When it is pos- 
sible to get to a cosmetic surgeon at once the lacerated edges 
may be trimmed away and the parts sutured with such care 
that but little evidence of the trouble will be seen. 

MICROTIA OR UNDEVELOPED EARS 

This is a condition seen in one or both ears. The 
organ or organs are unduly small and imperfectly developed. 
In such cases the external auditory canal is not infrequently 
closed and there may be an auricular appendage or an arti- 
ficial ear worn to a good advantage. 

Where the ear is small and imperfectly developed an 
improvement may be secured in its appearance by the ju- 
dicious use of tissue builder and should the organ be curled 
and twisted upon itself the cartilage may be divided subcu- 
taneously in various directions and the parts held in cor- 
rected position until healing occurs. 

Where the ear is very much smaller than the normal 
and the use of the tissue builder is unsuccessful in correct- 



THE SKIN 181 

ing its unnatural appearance, the organ may be removed 
and an artificial ear worn to a better advantage. 

EXCISING A SCAR 

Irregular scars of considerable breadth may be excised 
and the skin margins so skillfully joined that where before 
there existed a disfigurement in the shape of a red, broad 
mark, there will only be seen a tiny hair line to mark the 
site of the former trouble. 

The improvement is not only remarkable but follows 
immediately, so that within a few days after the operation 
but little trace of it may be noticed. 

SKIN GRAFTING 

When a great deal of the surface of the skin has been 
burned there have been attempts made at skin grafting. 
This is never very desirable on the face as it is almost 
impossible to secure a smooth and natural appearance where 
the edges must be joined. 

THE FORMATION OF THE DIMPLE 

Dimples may be easily and swiftly manufactured with 
but little inconvenience to the patient and but a slight 
expenditure of time on the part of the operator, though it 
must be admitted that some skill is necessary to produce 
just the right kind. 

After the skin has been carefully cleansed the sharp 
point of a very fine knife is carried into the cellular and 
fatty tissues of the cheek, and then these tissues drawn up 
with a very sharp hook and snipped off. The amount of 
tissue excised is hard to describe as it will depend largely 
upon the location selected, also upon the style of a dimple 
preferred. 



CHAPTER XIX 

RESHAPING THE NOSE, ALTERING THE EXPRESSION AND 
APPEARANCE OF THE MOUTH BY COSMETIC SURGERY 

As the nose is the most prominent feature of the face 
it naturally attracts the most attention. No matter how 
clear the complexion, how expressive the eyes, or how 
beautiful the other features, a badly shaped nose will posi- 
tively take away every opportunity for being considered 
even attractive. 

Operations on the nose within the past few years have 
been so remarkably improved that now no scar of any kind 
is left to show where the incision was made, because all of 
the best work is done from beneath, through one or both 
nostrils. 

This operation has been attempted by many surgeons 
but has only been uniformly successful in the hands of three 
men in the United States. 

In this, as in other delicate operations, much judgment 
must be exercised in order to bring about a decided improve- 
ment. 

A really large nose is rarely sightly. When, in addi- 
tion, there is a bulbous tip or dilated nostrils, or any one of 
a hundred other defects, the need of an operation is so 
imperative that one wonders how any person could possibly 
hesitate to secure the improvement as quickly as possible. 

Nose operations are not at all painful, owing to' the 
injection of local anesthetics before the work is commenced. 
They rarely take long to accomplish and, best of all, by this 
new means of operating no disfiguring bandages are used, 

182 



THE SKIN 183 

and hence the patient needs no seclusion at all but can go 
about the ordinary duties as though nothing had happened. 

Historians declare that if Cleopatra's nose had been 
but a quarter of an inch shorter or longer the history of 
nations would have been changed. 

One knowing such facts should waste no time in mourn- 
ing over a poorly shaped nose, but should at once proceed 
to remedy the trouble. 

Among the conditions commonly found and quickly 
remedied are the following: 

REDUCTION OF THE HUMP OR ROMAN NOSE 

The exaggerated aquiline nose entirely alters the ex- 
pression of the individual and the removal of an excess of 
tissue will often make a striking improvement. 

The newest, and best operation 
for the hump is performed as men- 
tioned before, from beneath, either 1 
by working through one or both j 
nostrils. This does away with any 
necessity for an incision on the out- 
side of the nose. 

The operation is painless. Heal- 
ing is usually rapid and seclusion 
unnecessary. 

THE TIP TILTED NOSE 

No matter what the mental ca- * 

pacity of the person, a tip-tilted Nos e Before Operation 
r . r r (Courtesy Dr. Ward) 

nose immediately puts one in mind 

of a pug dog. When the nostrils are also thick, a coarsened 

expression is added which makes the defect more marked. 





184 



THE SKIN 



The operation is not particularly difficult, though with 

this, as with all nose operations, a certain delicacy of touch 

acquired only by years of practice, is an absolute essential. 

The work consists in bringing the tip down and then 

applying sutures to retain it in its lowered position. If the 

sides of the nose are very thick a 
little tissue must be cut from beneath 
or at the side in order to reduce them 
to normal proportions. By using care 
in placing the sutures no adhesion 
strips are needed on the outside of 
the nose, so the patient will be obliged 
to lose no time from ordinary duties. 

NOSE WITH A BULBOUS TIP 

The nose with a bulbous tip is 
frequently seen. Often the bridge is 
comparatively low. A few years ago, 
when the fad of injecting paraffin 
first appeared, such noses were filled 
out without any idea of the effect that would be produced 
on the individual. Frequently these fillings had to be cut 
out later. 

The nose with the bulbous tip is more sightly than one 
that is large and coarse in all of its proportions, therefore 
the possessor of this type of nose should never be treated 
by any method that fills the nose out from the tip. Instead 
the tip itself should be reduced to normal proportions by 
the underneath operation. 

Following this reduction injections may be made to 
correct the appearance of the bridge if this appears to be 
necessary. 




Nose After Operation 
(Courtesy Dr. Ward) 



THE SKIN 



185 



OTHER NOSE OPERATIONS 

Many other deformities or defects occur, such as de- 
pressions in the bridge of the nose or a deflection to one 
side or something of a similar nature. All of these cor- 
rective operations are deftly and successfully performed 
by the cosmetic surgeon. 





Hump Nose Before Operation Nose After Removal of Hump 

(Courtesy of Dr. G. A. Ward.) 

In the illustrations given, but two of the various types 
will be seen. In each case it will be noted that the improve- 
ment in the shape of the nose has made a wonderful differ- 
ence in the entire expression of the face. 



THE MOUTH 

Many mouths are never well formed. Others become 
distorted through a habit of contracting the muscles. The 
lips are kept tightly compressed to the face. Thus the bow 
line is destroyed and a straight line made, entirely altering 
the expression. 



186 



THE SKIN 



Pouting is another habit indulged in by many people 
who are inclined to be despondent. This downward turning 
of the angles of the mouth gives in extreme cases an expres- 
sion of sadness. In middle-aged persons deep lines form 
where these depressions have been and it is for this condi- 
tion relief is frequently sought. 

Careful attention to the use of the muscles and practice 
before the mirror in elevating the angles of the mouth will 
often develop remarkable control of these muscles. When, 
through neglect or carelessness, such care is not practiced, 
an operation can be performed by bunching the muscles. 
This immediately changes the appearance and always grati- 
fies the patient. 

THICK LIPS 

What at first glance may seem to be a lip of excessive 
thickness in many instances proves to be an "everted lip/* 




Thick Lips 
(Courtesy Dr. G. A. Ward) 



to 



Such a condition imparts a decidedly coarse expression 
the face. By a single procedure entirely within the 



THE SKIN 187 

mouth the lip may be quickly and painlessly restored to a 
pleasing outline. 

Sometimes one lip appears too thick or too long, in 
other instances both lips are affected, in any event an 



lljJBjgfljj^lf* 



Lips After Operation 
(Courtesy Dr. G. A. Ward) 



excision of tissue well within the mouth may be made and 
the entire shape of the lips altered to the entire satisfaction 
of the person so afflicted. 

THIN LIPS 

Lips apparently too thin are rarely more than inverted 
lips, resulting from a long misuse of the muscles. Perhaps 
it is more or less natural that the face should characterize 
to some extent the emotions that are felt by the individual, 
at the same time these emotions depicted by expressions 
simply represent a lack of self control on the part of the 
individual, and it is important to all that they learn to sup- 
press many of the emotional characteristics expressed by 
the muscles of the face* if they hope to avoid acquiring an 
unpleasant expression. 



188 THE SKIN 

One of the most common faults is in attempting to sup- 
press emotion by compressing the lips. 

By careful examination it is always easy to determine 
whether the lip is inverted or unduly thin. In the latter 
case, operations are not advisable excepting when combined 
with the tissue builder to give the lips the necessary thick- 
ness. 

EXTREMELY LARGE MOUTH 

Many times what appears to be an extremely large 
mouth is in reality nothing but an undue thickness of the 
lips, which can be remedied as described. 

In other instances the trouble is due to protruding teeth 
and should be corrected by a competent dentist. 

When neither of these conditions are responsible for 
the appearances a slight operation may be performed inside 
the mouth, advancing the corners toward the median line. 
In extreme cases the upper and lower lips are denuded at 
the angles of the mouth without removing any tissue. Then 
the operator carefully draws the denuded area together 
and sutures them in position. 

A remarkable change is thus brought about with com- 
parative ease. 

TATTOOING TO AID THE APPARENT WIDTH 
OF THE MOUTH 

Tattooing is to have a definite place among the opera- 
tions performed by the featural surgeon. We have seen the 
effect of the practice for adornment among the savage 
tribes as well as among some of our own people who are 
tempted to try the practice for the sport of the thing. 

That the operation is permanent no one denies. 

When, therefore, this tattooing is performed to imitate 
nature there can be no doubt as to its effect. 



THE SKIN 

Sometimes it is used to accentuate the bow-shape of 
the lip. At others it is done in a fine line to aid in overcom- 
ing the unnaturally thin appeara: This requires an 
extreme delicacy on the part of the surgeon to secure a tint- 
ing that will be a shade between the natural color of the 
lips and normal appearance of the skin. We should never 
have the natural red matched but should secure a result 
somewhat lighter, so that should the patient become anae- 
mic at some future time the red line will not be - on- 
spicuous. 



CHAPTER XX 

TREATMENT OF BLACKHEADS AND MILIA 

Blackheads or comedones are, as it has been explained, 
in the Chapter on Diseases of the Skin Glands, nothing but 
plugs of sebaceous matter which have accumulated in the 
ducts of the sebaceous or oil glands. A moment's reflec- 
tion will show that the longer this condition has persisted 
the more the functions of the gland will be injured, conse- 
quently the harder it will be to remedy conditions. 

The demand for this work has never been so great as 
it is at the present time, for it is only within the past few 
years that people have realized that affections of this kind 
could be termed skin diseases rather than blood disorders. 
Still, notwithstanding the interest manifested in the work, 
comparatively few of the operators even in the largest 
cities either understand or practice the art of improving 
skins so afflicted. 

In fact, even well-informed parents so far forget their 
knowlege of physiology as to declare the blackheads should 
not be removed, but allowed to ''run their course." Their 
awakening has been indeed bitter, for ordinarily the result 
of neglect in these cases terminates in most repulsive erup- 
tions of pimples filled with pus, causing the skin to appear 
as though it were dotted with festered lumps. In many 
instances the flesh has become permanently thickened, and 
the complexion made dull and muddy by this failure to 
take the proper treatments. 

The great secret of success in this work is in the exer- 
cise of constant and untiring care. If all cases of black- 

190 



THE SKIN 191 

heads were taken in hand immediately, and persistently 
worked upon until cured, there would be more good com- 
plexions to be seen, while obstinate disorders of this kind 
would indeed be rare. 

The term "blackhead" really is not one used by those 
who wish to be correct, but it is so descriptive that it has 
become commonly accepted and is universally known. The 
text-books refer to these obstructions as comedones, while 
many people still persist in declaring that "flesh worm" 
describes them perfectly, at the same time insisting that the 
pests are really alive. In point of fact, whatever may be 
the term used, these much-discussed and troublesome 
invaders are nothing but fat, white plugs, formed by accu- 
mulations of the sebaceous secretions that persist in block- 
ing up the pores and thus preventing the glands from per- 
forming their functions. 

Although at one time supposed to indicate uncleanliness 
blackheads are so frequently found that the old idea has 
given way to another in which all authorities declare that 
they are caused by some peculiar local condition and do not 
necessarily indicate anything beyond this fact, though func- 
tional disturbances and lack of sufficient nutrition may be 
cited as disturbing elements. However, the majority of 
cases are found in young and robust people who are other- 
wise models of physical excellence, so this latest idea seems 
to be based upon sound reason. 

There are many varieties of these black plagues, all of 
them requiring much attention and earnest work before 
they can be persuaded to leave. Some are fine and so tightly 
embedded in the skin that it seems impossible to dislodge 
them. Others are large £ind coarse, and even protrude above 
the surface, leaving deep pits in the skin where removed, 
thus making much massage necessary in these spots. Still 



192 T H E S K I N 

others seem to possess a tendency to fester, and upon pres- 
sure, not only the blackhead but pus comes out at the same 
time. All of them require the same treatment, for if the 
pores are to be made to appear as they should and the 
glands are to perform their natural functions, these obstruc- 
tions must be removed and the applications of ointments 
made that will assist in the process of reducing the size of 
the enlarged pores by restoring tone to the glands. 

In removing blackheads care must be taken not to 
bruise the tissue, and the habit of squeezing the skin between 
the thumb nails, using a watch key or any instrument not 
especially intended for this purpose, is to be strongly con- 
demned. The use of the face steamer before the work of 
pressing these blackheads out, is also injurious, as the fat is 
extracted from the tissues by means of the intense heat and 
this increases the tendency of the skin to scar. The come- 
done extractor is provided with a tiny scoop at one end 
and is made with either a needle point or a knife at the 
other. This instrument produces the best effect, for it not 
only removes the blackheads easily by means of gentle 
pressure, but it also marks the skin but little, and never 
permanently scars or bruises the flesh. 

Before commencing any treatments, however, the oper- 
ator should have an earnest talk with her patient, explain 
just what is necessary, and insist upon it that home work 
shall be done in conjunction with the treatments taken at 
the office. 

Occasionally with just a few treatments very brilliant 
results have been shown, but as a rule it will be found that 
at least several months' work will be necessary to bring 
about any marked improvement. 

Even then it requires constant effort on the part of the 
patient to keep the skin in good condition. Hence the abso- 



T H E S K I N 193 

lute necessity of making each person understand the value 
of effort at home, and the necessity for a modified diet and 
frequent bathing. 

After these preliminaries have been arranged treat- 
ments may commence. The following method will be found 
practical : 

First, cleanse the face with lettuce cream and then use 
the electrolytic massage with very warm water into which 
the soda solution has been poured. Next, go over the 
entire surface with a dilute solution of formalin or alcohol. 
Then press the cup of the comedone extractor gently down 
over each black speck and maintain a firm pressure until it 
is loosened and comes out. 

Once in a while an obstinate plug will refuse to become 
dislodged. In this instance connect the needle to the nega- 
tive galvanic current and gently enter the duct by the side 
of the blackhead. In a moment it will be loosened and can 
then be removed without any difficulty. 

Occasionally one meets with an obstinate condition in 
which all the blackheads seem so firmly embedded that only 
very deep pressure can remove them. In this instance, 
after trying one or two it will be well to stop proceedings 
until after the skin has been softened by applying the acne 
cream and holding the blue light over it for ten or fifteen 
minutes. Then the comedone extractor may be used with 
Very good results. 

When the comedones are extremely large the removal 
seems to leave quite a pit in the face. This can be reme- 
died by inserting into the cavity the positive platinum or 
solid gold needle, and rotating it gently around the sides of 
the opening. Of course the patient holds the negative 
electrode. Care must be taken to see that the needle is 



194 THE SKIN 

really gold or platinum, as otherwise a permanent black 
mark will be left on the skin. 

In all treatments the operator should use only enough 
pressure to dislodge the blackheads and should not work 
too long in any one section of the face. Sometimes but 
little irritation follows this treatment. At others the entire 
face is flaming red and the after-treatment must be given 
with a great deal of care. 

If the skin is leathery and oily looking, a great deal of 
stimulation is indicated and the treatment may be very vig- 
orous. The patient should be instructed to bathe the face 
with warm water and the medicated soap each night for ten 
minutes and then rub in the acne cream. In the morning 
use antiseptic lotion and powder. 

Occasionally it will be found advisable to vary the 
process by the use of the instantaneous bleaching treatment 
for general stimulation. 

If the skin is scaly and sensitive to water lettuce cream 
must be substituted for water, the methine ointment may be 
used at night, removed with lettuce cream in the morning 
and then a little acne used before applying the powder. 

These blackhead treatments may be finished in a number 
of ways. 

Ordinarily, after the extractor has been used, the acne 
cream is applied, forced in with the blue light and then finger 
manipulation given with the faradic current. 

The usual method of cleansing off the oil with the lav- 
ender lotion and applying the positive ball electrode with 
antiseptic lotion is then employed before applying the 
powder. 

When, however, the skin is red and there are small, 
red pimples, intermingled with the blackheads, it is wise to 
give the manipulation as usual and then force the methine 



THE SKIN 195 

tincture into the skin by means of the positive galvanic 
electrode, using it for about twenty minutes. This will be 
found especially beneficial. 

In obstinate cases, treatments should be given at least 
twice a week, the patient should be requested to work faith- 
fully at home and use the preparations indicated with the 
following instructions for additional care : 

A bath must be taken daily and surface of body 
scrubbed vigorously with sea salt. 

In case of constipation — and this by the way is almost 
always found — a good cathartic should be suggested and 
the patient given especial caution as to the necessity for 
using it. 

For diet nothing but the simplest foods may be eaten. 
No pastries, candies, soups, gravies, highly spiced dishes, 
salads at all. Meat must not be taken more than once a 
day. Vegetables may be eaten plentifully, also bread and 
milk and eggs. 

Should the patient seem particularly anaemic or other- 
wise not in good physical condition advise her to consult 
her physician and secure something for building her up 
generally as well. 

Care and faithful treatment will positively in time 
banish these pests, but it is impossible to make any honest 
estimate as to just how 7 long the treatments will have to be 
given. 

The use of the electric current is most valuable in this 
respect, for just as the negative current softens and relaxes 
the skin, allowing the plugs to be forced out easily, so on 
the other hand will the positive current harden and produce 
an astringent action, thus producing a marked efifect in 
improving the general condition and tone. 



196 THE SKIN 

TREATMENT OF MILIA 

The retention of the sebaceous matter in a tiny sac 
is known as milia. Many people call these tiny lumps 
"whiteheads/' 

They differ from blackheads in many respects, but 
principally in the fact that they cannot be pressed out. 
Instead the tiny sac must be opened by a sharp instrument 
and the hard lump teased out by means of a large needle 
or a small pointed steel instrument. 

Many times the entire face is covered with these pearly 
particles, giving the skin a peculiar appearance. Massage, 
steaming or any of the various methods tried for other 
conditions has absolutely no effect on this condition. 

The only remedy is the simple one of opening each sac 
and removing each fatty particle and then giving frequent 
treatments to keep the skin in normal condition. 

The following process will be most successful : 

Cleanse the face as though for massage by use of lettuce 
cream and then remove oil with lavender lotion or alcohol. 
Next apply dilute formalin, by means of a small bit of 
cotton and then open each sac with a sharp pointed knife or 
large needle, that has, of course, been carefully sterilized. 

Frequently these sacs prove to be very tough and after 
one or two attempts the amateur is apt to become discour- 
aged and leave the task uncompleted. Nothing could be 
worse. After commencing the work keep at it until the 
opening is made and then press or tease out the tiny lump. 

The sac may be opened by means of the electric 
needle. When this method is used the needle should be 
rotated gently about for a few seconds before any attempt 
is made to dislodge the contents. Then just a little pressure 
will be needed to accomplish the desired result. 



THE SKIN 197 

The use of the electric needle is really preferable when- 
ever it can conveniently be used, because it not only assists 
in dissolving the fatty matter but also discourages any 
recurrence. 

After the removal of the contents of the milia, the face 
may be covered with acne cream, and the blue light used for 
a time before the finger massage is given. Following this 
the positive galvanic electrode should be used for about ten 
or fifteen minutes with methine. Then the face may be 
cleansed with lavender lotion and powdered. Treatments 
may be given twice weekly until the condition has been 
cured. 



CHAPTER XXI 

ACNE 

One of the most common as well as obstinate forms 
of skin disease is that known as acne, or what is commonly 
called pimples. 

Authorities differ as to the proper definition. Acne so 
often follows or is connected with comedones that the 
majority of the profession declare it to be a chronic inflam- 
mation of the sebaceous or oil glands. 

Others, among them Hyde, declare it to be a "peri- 
folliculitis." 

Although the treatment of acne may very properly be 
assigned to the physician, not one professional man in a 
hundred will be bothered by it, unless he makes a specialty 
of just such work and charges accordingly. The average 
practitioner feels that he has neither time nor inclination 
to spend on these cases, though he is willing to prescribe 
for them. 

Consequently, in most small towns, the physician usually 
gives the prescription and then advises the patient to go 
to the operator who can remove the blackheads, open the 
pimples and give deep massage for the purpose of restoring 
tone to the tissues. 

There is perhaps no other branch of this work in 
which so much gratitude is evinced by the patients. 

Many times these unsightly conditions have persisted 
for years, making it impossible for the person so afflicted 
to take part in any social event. 

198 



THE SKIN 199 

Constant brooding over the affliction makes them mor- 
bid and disinclined to do anything for themselves, so a 
double duty devolves upon the operator, for home work is 
absolutely necessary in connection with office treatments. 

In cases where the desired results are not obtained 
investigation will usually show that the patient has been 
neglectful as far as personal efforts are concerned. 

Acne- is characterized by the appearance of small eleva- 
tions varying in size from a pinhead to a pea. Sometimes 
these protuberances are pustular, sometimes papular, many 
times they are greatly inflamed and frequently they are 
painful. 

Although physicians, especially in the smaller cities, 
usually refer such cases to the operator, she should also 
be able to recognize the different varieties of acne and 
therefore know just what it is as well as how to treat the 
condition. 

VARIETIES OF ACNE 

Acne vulgaris, also called acne simplex, is by far the 
most common type. The lesions are usually of a mixed 
character and one may find blackheads, papules of varying 
size and pustules. Sometimes these lesions may have the 
beginning in a red spot, painful upon pressure. As a rule 
these lesions are very rapid in developing, appearing and 
disappearing in a week or ten days, only to be immediately 
succeeded by a fresh number. Sometimes the papular type 
proves very obstinate and the hard lumps persist for 
weeks and months, then gradually disappear, leaving purple 
discolorations. 

This form of acne is also frequently seen upon the 
back and chest. 

It may persist for years if allowed to remain without 
treatment, making the skin coarse and leathery, and fre- 




Acne Vulgaris 



THE SKIN 201 

quently leaving the pores so large that the skin looks pitted. 

The most marked effect is seen in the mental condi- 
tion of the patient." Frequently persons so afflicted become 
so morbid that they refuse to take part in any social gath- 
ering, never go into the streets unless heavily veiled and 
persist in regarding themselves as but little less loathsome 
than a leper. 

Owing to this depressed condition and utter despair it 
is often extremely difficult to persuade such patients to 
indulge in any effort themselves, hence the necessity for a 
very firm attitude on the part of the operator. 

If she is wise she w 111 never accept one case unless 
co-operation is positively promised. 

Under treatment but little improvement may be seen 
for the first few weeks, though usually a slight change is 
observed at once. In any case, however, if the efforts are 
faithfully continued improvement is certain and in time a 
cure will result. 

Acne punctata, also called the "minute papular" form, 
consists for the most part in lesions about a pinhead in size, 
with a central comedone or blackhead. The papules are 
frequently red, so the contrast is all the greater between 
the central portions and inflamed margin. 

Acne pustulosa is a type in which the lesions are almost 
altogether pustular. In size they vary from a pinhead to a 
pea. Frequently the base is red, and there is a nasty looking 
yellow tip. This is a most unpleasant form, causing an 
extremely repulsive appearance, though frequently yielding 
to treatment quicker than the papular type. 

Acne indurata, sometimes called acne tuberculosa, is 
that form in which the lesions are closely crowded, causing 
a hard, deep-seated base. This form is difficult to treat 
and usually responds very slowly. Extremely vigorous 



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202 THE SKIN 

efforts being required to make any impression whatever. 
Deep, continued work with the electric needle or spark for 
the prismatic ray must supplement all other treatment. 

Acne cachecticorum is the name given an eruption* more 
or less general, occurring in weak cachectic persons. The 
lesions are livid violet or red in color and of the papular 
pustular type. They appear both of moderate and of large 
size, develop slowly, respond to treatment unwillingly, often 
leaving small scars. General treatment, much exercise and 
out-of-door life is an excellent addition to the ordinary 
treatments in these cases. 

Acne artificialis is produced by the use of certain drugs 
and also occasionally by the use of remedies, such as tar, 
paraffin, oils, etc. Foods of certain kinds, such as straw- 
berries and some of the other fruits will cause this eruption. 
It appears on the body as well as the face, consists of a 
sort of rash of minute red papules, and usually disappears 
very rapidly unless the use of the irritant is continued. 
Soothing applications and the discontinuation of the drug 
or foods that have produced the trouble are the only indi- 
cations here. 

Nervous eruption, a rash resembling the one just 
described, sometimes appears in certain localities of the 
body. Although often red it is usually more like tiny vesi- 
cles, and is nearly sure to be accompanied by severe itching. 
Soothing applications and internal treatment will be neces- 
sary. Occasionally these vesicles will appear only on the 
hands, sometimes on the face and often in a band or zone 
about the waist. The yellow ointment will often alleviate 
this itching and help disperse the eruption. 

Acne rosacea, a chronic congestion of the face, causing 
an enlargement of the tiny blood vessels and making the 
nose, cheeks, and sometimes the forehead of an intense red 



T H E S K I N 203 

or purplish hue. This appearance always leads one to sus- 
pect intemperance, and indeed this form of acne does occur 
among those who live intemperate lives but it is more fre- 
quently found among those who suffer from disturbed 
digestions and intestinal troubles. It is extremely difficult 
to treat and often resists any attempt at improvement until 
after months of patient effort. 

Papules and pustules are also found in this form of 
acne, and frequently the constant inflammations cause 
changes in the skin glands and tissues, distorting the fea- 
tures and completely altering the expression. This form 
of acne usually manifests itself between the years of 30 
and 40. 

If one is persistent with the use of the positive gal- 
vanic current after every treatment, or as indicated in the 
forcing in of certain substances, a marked change will be 
sure to result. The current should always be taken from a 
wall plate in the treatment of cases of this kind and used 
as strong as it can comfortably be applied. 

CAUSES OF ACNE 

Acne usually begins between the ages of 14 and 18, 
when the functions of all the glands are actively develop- 
ing. It is usually caused by some form of dyspepsia, consti- 
pation, anaemia or some functional disturbance of the 
organs. 

In nine cases out of ten some form of intestinal irrita- 
tion may be said to be present, no matter how vigorously 
this assertion is denied. 

In practically every case medical treatment as well as 
local attention is necessary and should be persisted in, untii 
an improvement is seen. Acne caused by the use of exter- 
nal remedies or by taking certain drugs will in many 




204 THE SKIN 

instances be remedied at once by removal of cause while 
that caused by other conditions will, of course, require a 
long, patient and oftentimes a most vigorous form of 
treatment. 

TREATMENT OF ACNE 

In order to arrive at a reasonably accurate rule for 
treatment all cases of acne may be divided into three classes. 

1st — An irritable or inflammatory kind in which the 
skin is fine and thin and easily irritated by any kind of stim- 
ulating treatment. All local work in these instances must 
be of mild character and much stress must be laid upon the 
general treatment by the physician. If, after a reasonable 
time, the improvement does not warrant this mild method, 
more vigorous treatment should be commenced. 

2nd — An indolent variety where the skin is thick, rough 
and oily, with large and obstructed ducts, and where most 
vigorous local applications are emphatically demanded. 

3rd — Cases in which portions of the face exhibit the 
indolent variety, due to the presence of old papules, while a 
new eruption is characterized by an excessively tender 
condition. 

The successful operator will be she who knows how 
to vary her treatments to better these different conditions. 

Before going more explicitly into the subject of treat- 
ment, however, it must be impressed upon the operator that 
a very strict surveillance of the personal habits of her patient 
will be necessary. She must be firm in her demands and 
must positively impress upon the patient the necessity for 
constant care if improvement is to be procured. 

By thus persuading the patient to work with her, results 
will not only be far quicker but will also become permanent. 



THE SKIN 205 

THE SERUM TREATMENT FOR ACNE 

Much attention has recently been aroused in a treatment 
recommended by a number of physicians for an internal 
treatment for acne by means of the use of a serum injected 
hypodermically. 

Results, more or less permanent, and very satisfactory, 
have been claimed in about sixty per cent of the cases. 

Unfortunately, however, even where results have been 
good in one way, the rough, coarsened, repulsive condition 
of the skin has still remained unless special treatments have 
also been taken. 

For this reason, therefore, it is well in difficult cases 
to enlist the services of some physician who gives the serum 
treatment, continuing at the same time to give regular 
attention such cases demand. 

LOCAL TREATMENTS 

In considering this subject we will take up two forms 
of treatment. The one preventative, and the other the care 
of the established disease. 

In the prevention of acne attention must be paid to 
these three things : 

ist — All superfluous sebum and epithelial accumula- 
tions must be removed from the mouths of the glands. 

2nd — The sebaceous glands must be stimulated to 
health and activity — for instance, massage, electricity and 
the use of the lights will do this. 

3rd — The skin should be kept antiseptic by means of 
medicated ointments or lotions. 

This preventative treatment applies particularly to the 
beginning of skin trouble where the blackheads are just com- 
mencing to appear on the face. By getting at the work at 




206 THE SKIN 

once and persisting, future trouble with acne will surely be 
avoided, while neglect will just as positively result in the 
appearance of this disease. 

In the chapter on comedones or blackheads a full 
description of the necessary treatment will be found. 

WHEN THE DISEASE IS FULLY DEVELOPED 

The first step in treatment will be a thorough cleansing 
before attempting to use any instruments. 

Begin as in the preparations for massage by applying 
the lettuce cream and allowing it to remain while the tank 
is being filled with warm water. The water should be as 
warm as it can be tolerated and the soda solution should 
be used. 

Next, the face should be sponged with a dilute forma- 
lin solution, the operator's hands sterilized again, and the 
comedone extractor used for expressing all the comedones 
possible. 

If the pustules are very numerous a sharp instrument 
may be used for opening them and the contents pressed out. 
If papules are present the electric needle must be used, 
attached to the negative pole, and allowing it to remain in 
each papule until the contents are thoroughly softened and 
may be expressed by pressure. 

If the surface has been very pustular the finger mas- 
sage may be omitted and instead a prolonged exposure to 
the blue light given for twenty minutes. Then acne cream 
may be placed on the skin and once more the blue light used 
for five minutes, using the finger tips gently over the sur- 
face to assist in forcing in the cream. Superfluous cream 
may then be removed by gauze pledgets, moistened with lav- 
ender lotion. The positive electrode may then be used over 



THE SKIN 207 

entire surface, powder applied and patient allowed to 
depart. 

If, on the other hand, there are many papules and but 
few pustules, exposure of the bare skin (without cream) to 
the blue light may be shortened to ten minutes and deep 
massage with faradic current given afterward, using espe- 
cially deep manipulation over hardened portions, and finish- 
ing with the positive electrode as before. 

In every instance the use of the electric needle, ii 
inserted long enough, will help to bring about a much 
quicker cure, although the skin may look more inflamed 
directly after its use. 

The blue light used on the bare skin has a penetrating 
and antiseptic as well as tonic effect that should not be 
underestimated. 

In obstinate cases the methine or a special ointment 
may be used at home each night and the acne cream used 
in the morning. 

If the skin is tough and leathery more vigorous treat- 
ment may be given, and in every case where possible treat- 
ments should be at least three times a week. 

HOME TREATMENT 

In all ordinary cases the face should be bathed in very 
warm water with either medicated or olive soap for at 
least ten minutes each night. Either methine or the special 
ointment should be rubbed in well, and in the morning 
lettuce cream used for removing any of the green tinge left 
by methine, then acne cream rubbed in well and powder 
applied. 

If the skin does not seem to stand the methine well the 
acne cream may be used at night and the antiseptic lotion 
sponged on in the morning before applying the powder. 



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208 THE SKIN 

If the skin is extremely sensitive the lettuce cream may 
be applied first, then the wash cloth dipped in warm water 
and held over the surface, patting the skin gently and omit- 
ting the soap. Following this the cream indicated may be 
applied. 

Oftentimes after the first few treatments no trouble 
will be experienced. 

Bathing and diet should also receive due attention in 
addition to all this other home work. 

ACNE ROSACEA 

This particular trouble stands in a class by itself and 
demands a very different treatment. 

Owing to the vividly red appearance of both nose and 
cheeks, the patients are usually much disturbed over their 
appearance and are often super-sensitive. 

In this condition but little manipulation can be used, 
as often the use of the finger tips seems to aggravate the 
condition. 

Many times the tiny blood vessels seem to be so greatly 
enlarged that to correct them will be hopeless, but if perse- 
vered in, a great improvement will be seen in a very few 
weeks. 

The most successful treatment yet proposed is based on 
the use of methine. It may not always cure, but it will 
positively produce relief, and often has brought about won- 
derful results in a comparatively short time. It is given 
as follows : 

METHINE TREATMENT FOR ROSACEA 

Use lettuce cream for cleansing. 

Remove with soda solution. 

Enter the central supply of some of the greatly en- 



THE SKIN 209 

larged capillaries with the negative needle, being careful not 
to treat many that are in the same immediate locality. In 
some instances small hemorrhages will occur. This should 
be encouraged rather than suppressed. 

After a sufficient number have been treated, apply 
methine tincture with positive galvanic ball electrode, for 
about fifteen or twenty minutes, being careful to gently 
but firmly press and roll the electrode over the surface, not 
drag or scrape it. 

Remove methine with lettuce cream, then apply acne 
cream and allow it to remain while the blue light is used 
over the surface for from five to ten minutes. If methine 
is difficult to remove, use a little alcohol. 

If the skin is not badly inflamed, gentle manipulation 
with the finger tips. 

Then remove cream with lavender lotion, use positive 
galvanism to close pores and apply powder to finish the 
treatment. 

Treatments should be given several times a week. 

In rosacea, too, serum as administered by a physician 
has produced some excellent results and has hastened the 
recovery. 

Occasionally the use of the electric needle may make 
the face a little sore and frequently the methine will make 
it peel. If the use of the electric needle before the use of 
the methine seems to be too severe it may be used only 
alternate times. 

The positive electricity must be used as strong as it 
can be borne in order to produce the best efifect, and the 
electrode should be kept in one position some time to be sure 
that the methine is forced into the tissues. 

If there seems some difficulty in destroying the blood 
supply the afifected portion may be taken between the thumb 



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Use of High Frequency in Case of Acne 



THE SKIN 211 

and first finger and squeezed until one portion shows plainly 
a fullness and more evident redness. The needle may then 
be plunged into the section and it will be found that the tiny 
capillaries will usually disappear afterward. 

Home treatment will consist in avoiding the use of any 
irritating substance, using lettuce cream for cleansing the 
face, methine ointment at night and acne in the morning. 

The directions for diet and bathing should be carefully 
followed, and in addition an effort made to prevent becom- 
ing overheated, such as by working over a hot stove, exer- 
cising violently, or anything of that kind. 

Improvement in these cases often seems slow, but it is 
also sure if only the treatment is persisted in and directions 
followed. 

DIET 

In very obstinate cases a strict diet of bread and milk 
should be recommended for at least four weeks. Gradually 
other foods may be allowed, among them whole wheat 
bread, all of the fruits, fresh vegetables and eggs. Meat 
should be taken but seldom, and then the white meat of 
chickens and fish should be eaten instead of beef. 

No coffee, tea, liquor of any description, highly spiced 
or fried foods may be allowed. 

In connection with the use of the bread and milk diet 
very excellent results have been secured by adding to it a 
day or so of fasting, taking on these days nothing but 
water. 

If the patient can only be made to see that in adopting 
this rigid diet she is giving her much tried stomach a needed 
rest she will really enjoy the experiment. 

BATHING 

Not only should one full bath be taken every day, but 
in addition the body should be scrubbed with sea salt and a 




Use of High Frequency in Removing Mole on Chin 



T H E S K I N 213 

good friction obtained by drying the surface with a coarse 
bath towel. 

In some instances vapor baths or those of the electric 
light variety will be found a valuable addition to the treat- 
ment. 

Internal baths, by flushing the intestinal canal, will also 
be of great assistance and should be taken at least once 
a week. 

CONSTIPATION 

In the majority of cases constipation will be found to 
exist even though the patient declares that it does not. For 
this reason, therefore, in addition to the adoption of a sim- 
ple diet, which will usually relieve dyspepsia, it will be neces- 
sary to avoid any symptoms of constipation by the use of 
some one of the many remedies used for that purpose, and 
which the physician can or usually will recommend. 

A very simple and an excellent remedy, especially where 
there is much congestion, as in acne rosacea, is found in 
the use of Epsom salts each morning for some three or four 
weeks. 

As the use of any of the remedies is sooner or later 
attended by some failure to take effect, it is better to alter- 
nate their use and in the meantime by means of exercise 
and deep breathing bring about a better physical condition. 

EXERCISE 

While it is not possible that all patients can take a 
course of instruction in physical culture, still each one 
should have impressed upon her the necessity for some 
form of exercise, such as walking a certain distance each 
day. 

Deep breathing is of especial advantage and should not 



214 T H E S K I N 

only be practiced once but at least three times a day, remem- 
bering always that every breath of this kind adds tremen- 
dously to the purification of the blood by taking a greater 
amount of oxygen into the lungs. 

Sleeping in well ventilated rooms, with the windows 
wide open, is another important point that should be insisted 
upon in connection with these treatments. 

A new treatment for acne and one that has produced 
very excellent results is found in the use of the prismatic 
ray, in which every pustule or papule has sparks shot in by 
means of the fulguration point electrode. This is followed 
in ordinary acne by use of the flat electrode and antiseptic 
oil. Then the contents of pustules or papules are expelled 
and more deep pressure with flat electrode and acne cream 
given. No finger manipulation is necessary after this, 
cream may be removed and powder applied. This treat- 
ment is especially good for old, obstinate cases. 

In acne rosacea, however, the fulguration point appli- 
cation is followed by the use of the positive electrode and 
methine in order to reduce the irritation. 

In treatment of acne these general rules may be fol- 
lowed : 

ist — Where the condition is obstinate and consequently 
indolent and of long standing, very vigorous treatment is 
indicated, including not only the use of the cup, but inser- 
tion of the negative needle, deep massage and frequently a 
stronger special ointment for home use. The electric needle 
in such cases may need to be used several days in succession 
as the first use only seems to increase irritation. Massage 
and electricity must be used for a long time over all purplish 
spots in order to restore normal condition. 

2nd— When skin is sensitive, covered with old as well 
as new elevations, the cup may be used for cleansing, but 



THE SKIN 215 

manipulation need not be so vigorous, and after use of the 
manipulation the positive electrode and methine should be 
used to reduce irritation. 

3rd — If the skin is especially sensitive the cup may be 
omitted, skin cleansed with lettuce cream, negative needle 
used, followed by a longer application of the acne cream and 
the blue light and finish with positive electrode, covered with 
cotton that has been saturated with antiseptic lotion, methine 
treatments may be alternated with use of antisepic lotion, 
with good results. 

4th — In the use of the electric needle it must be remem- 
bered that not only does it dissolve the contents of the pus- 
tules and papules but it is also useful in reducing old scar 
tissue. It is a most valuable aid to any treatment, providing 
the application is only continued long enough to produce 
results. It tends to prevent, not produce scars. 

Finally, the operator may rely upon producing a marked 
improvement in any case, no matter how difficult, if she will 
insist on co-operation, give treatment very frequently (three 
times a week, and oftener if necessary) and keep at the 
work without losing faith. 

The greater number of failures comes not because this 
disease is so difficult, but because it is so obstinate. Hence, 
very frequently the patient loses heart, the operator loses 
interest, and they both agree that "nothing can be done/' 
when perhaps just a few more treatments would have 
proved a decided betterment. 

For this reason it is particularly important that both 
patient and operator believe in the possibility of success, 
though both should understand that rapid results can rarely 
be promised. The drawbacks are bound to occur, so when 
the patient is losing hope the operator must bolster her up, 



216 THE SKIN 

be full of faith and "keep on keeping on" until improvement 
has been secured. 

Any one can do easy work. It takes brain, persever- 
ance and real grit to persist in work of this shape. Best of 
all, it gives one a standing as being in a manner a specialist, 
just because of the difficulties that are known to exist. 



CHAPTER XXII 

ECZEMA 

Although the treatment of eczema does not properly 
come within the province of the ordinary operator, still it 
is necessary that she be able to recognize it, as otherwise she 
will many times be puzzled by failure to produce the desired 
results in facial and scalp treatments. 

A skin will, perhaps, become very much irritated after 
the use of the water massage or the instantaneous bleaching 
process, a scalp will be painful and itching after a shampoo 
and perhaps become covered with tiny vesicles. 

If the operator knows enough to recognize some of 
these apparent contradictions as evidences of an eczematous 
tendency she can avoid the use of water on such patients 
and thereby succeed in keeping them in a far more com- 
fortable condition. 

The word eczema is taken from the Greek, meaning 
"to boil." 

Eczema may be an acute, a sub-acute, or a chronic 
inflammatory condition of the skin. The earlier stages 
usually present one or more of the following conditions : 
There may be an erythematous appearance (redness), or 
vesicular (tiny blisters), or papular (small, hard elevations), 
or pustular (elevations filled with pus), or a combination 
of two or more of the lesions. 

This condition finally results in a certain degree of 
thickening of the skin, ending either in a discharge or oozing 
from the surface of the skin and formation of crusts in 
desquamation (a scaling process). 

217 



218 



THE SKIN 



VARIETIES OF ECZEMA 



The erythematous type is most frequently seen upon 
the face, although it may be found in any region of the 
body. It begins as a single reddened spot, or several similar 




Eczema 



spots may appear at the same time with outlines poorly 
defined, sometimes very considerable, swelling, itching and 
burning. This eruption soons becomes more marked, the 
parts take on a deeper red and occasionally scaly. If the 
skin is scratched or rubbed, serum will commence to ooze 
out. The afifected skin is harsh, dry and a red or violet 
color. 

The papular kind of eczema is usually found in the 
shape of an aggregation of closely set papules, varying in 



THE SKIN 219 

size from a pinhead to a pea, of bright red color, and inter- 
spersed usually by vesicles and pustules. Itching is intense 
and the extremities of the body, especially the joints, are 
favorite sites for this trouble. This is a chronic form, some 
lesions appearing and others disappearing, running on for 
months at a time until finally a thickened, solid patch results. 

The vesicular type is usually markedly inflammatory 
and is accompanied by considerable swelling. Solid sheets 
of these tiny blisters are sometimes seen. They often rup- 
ture in the case of a few hours or days, then outbreaks occur 
and there is a raw weeping as a consequence. The face and 
scalp of infants, the neck, and surface of the hands and 
fingers are usually afflicted by this form. It is usually 
chronic and sooner or later becomes a form of eczema 
rubrum. 

The pustular variety is not so common as the other 
types, but is found oftenest on the head, and is usually met 
with in poorly nourished types. As in the vesicular type 
there is a tendency to the rupture of these pustules. Crust- 
ing usually follows this condition. 

The squamous type is very frequently found and is 
usually red as well as scaly sometimes, when found upon 
the joints, being accompanied by fissures. The itching may 
be very slight and at times extremely painful. This form 
is usually a development from other types. 

Eczema rubrum, or oozing type of eczema, usually 
results from pustular or vesicular forms. It usually occurs 
in a red, weeping, raw-looking surface, sometimes accom- 
panied by crusts. It is most frequently found on the face 
and scalp of infants and the legs of adults, and is always a 
chronic form. 

The fissured type of eczema is that in which a cracking 
or Assuring of the skin is the most conspicuous feature. It 



220 THE SKIN 

is common upon the joints, more especially upon the fingers, 
and is accompanied by an attack of erythematous eczema. 
Fissures may also occur with any type of this disease. This 
trouble often disappears entirely in warm weather only to 
return in cold. 

Regional eczema is a name that is given to a form of 
eczema that appears in certain parts of the body only. For 
instance, only the hands may be affected. They feel hot, 
burn, itch intolerably and soon a patch develops that is 
perhaps limited to the palms. Other times just the crown 
of the head will be afflicted or perhaps a spot on the cheek. 

Frequently these eczemas are of a nervous type and are 
so accompanied by intense itching that the person is nearly 
wild with pain. 

Symptoms of Eczema — Itching, burning and a sensation 
of heat are usually experienced, either separately or 
together. As a rule no constitutional symptoms accompany 
these subjective indications. 

Causes — The greatest number of authorities agree in 
declaring both external and constitutional causes results in 
this disease. Parasites are also present and undoubtedly 
have an effect in prolonging the trouble, but as yet no 
specific parasite has been selected as prime factor. 

The largest number of cases may be said to depend 
upon constitutional causes. A certain number are inherited. 
Over-work, errors in diet, tendency to alcoholic stimulants 
will often provoke an attack. 

External Causes Are — Sharp, biting winds, too liberal 
use of certain soa£>s, chemical irritants, vaccination, exposure 
to poisonous plants, keeping hands in water too much, use 
of antiseptics on hands very frequently during the day, 
handling sugar and flour. These last named causes often 



THE SKIN 221 

produce conditions known as "washerwoman's itch," baker's 
itch, grocer's itch and surgeon's eczema. 

Treatment — The best treatments will be a combination 
of constitutional and general treatment. 

The diet must be plain and nutritious. All fancy 
dishes, indigestible foods and meats must be avoided. The 
patient should not eat cucumbers or asparagus, should 
diminish the quantity of tea and coffee and better still dis- 
pense with it entirely and absolutely refuse all fermented 
drinks, and all acid fruits. 

Eggs, milk and other light articles of diet such as 
crushed wheat, Pettijohn's breakfast food, etc., may be 
eaten. 

The physician in charge will always recommend any 
internal treatment. 

Local treatments are most difficult because although 
it is necessary to remove all crusts before any good may 
be accomplished, the use of soap and water usually cause 
more irritations. 

On the face, the use of the acne cream and prolonged 
exposure to the blue light followed by the application of 
the flat electrode of the prismatic ray, several days in suc- 
cession, will usually produce a clearing up of the spots. 
Then the flat electrode and the antiseptic oil may be used 
with the yellow ointment applied each night. In this treat- 
ment, lettuce cream should be used exclusively for cleans- 
ing and the cream must be removed by soft bits of cotton 
and gauze, no lavender lotion applied. Powder may be 
applied liberally after a treatment. 

For the scalp, the follicle lotion may be used for the 
first cleaning the surface, then scalp ointment applied and 
forced in with the blue light and then the prismatic ray 



222 THE SKIN 

used, or in some instances, the antiseptic oil may be used 
instead of the scalp food. After six days, a shampoo must 
be given in order to remove accumulated dirt, and more 
oily applications may then be applied. 



CHAPTER XXIII 

TREATMENT OF CHLOASMA, SALLOW OR MUDDY SKINS AND 

FRECKLES 

The presence of a dark, mask-like tint on the forehead, 
nose, cheeks and occasionally the sides of the neck is 
known as chloasma or moth-patch. 

This discoloration may result from the extreme use of 
an irritant but generally comes from an internal cause. 
Among the most common causes may be mentioned, use of 
certain drugs, diseases of the uterus, pregnancy, obstinate 
constipation, and also liver trouble. It is in fact, from the 
fact that a disordered liver bears so importantly on the 
appearance of the skin that another name is given to the 
appearance of these pigmentations is "liver-spots." 

Notwithstanding the fact that chloasma comes from 
internal causes, it often does not disappear when that cause 
has been removed. Hence the necessity for some form of 
treatment. 

Remedies that produce an active desquamation of the 
skin are regarded favorably, but must be used cautiously, 
as otherwise a deeper and really permanent pigmentation 
will result. 

Oftentimes, the effect of a treatment will be really 
brilliant, but unless it is continued the discolorations 
reappear, hence the necessity for constant care in difficult 
cases. 

Another condition sometimes confused with chloasma 
is that known as vitiligo, or leucoderma. 

223 



224 THE SKIN 

Here there are spots exceedingly white, surrounded 
by very much darker looking skin. 

Many operators do not notice the absence of coloring 
in the light spots, but seeing only the darker skin, think 
of this case as chloasma and proceed to give treatments 
with but little result. 

Vitiligo is in reality a condition in which there is an 
absence of pigment. It usually begins as a circular white 
spot around the margins of which there is a marked increase 
of pigment. It may occur on the hands, face, neck or 
body. It often looks worse in summer. No treatment can 
restore color to the white portion, though bleaching will 
make the darker portions less evident. 

The cause is usually of nervous origin. 

A congenital absence of pigment results in an albino. 

An acquired absence results in vitiligo or leucoderma. 

In the treatment of chloasma, sallow and muddy skins 
may also be included a$ far as internal treatment is con- 
cerned, though externally of course, not quite such vigorous 
measures will be necessary. 

In all external treatment, of course, the object is to have 
the material employed absorbed as quickly as possible and 
to have it so well prepared that the work shall be directed 
particularly to the affected portions. To assist in this 
process of absorption it is necessary that the skin should be 
in the most cleanly condition and this is only possible when 
baths are taken frequently and the pores are kept free from 
obstructions. The average person has about fourteen square 
feet of skin to keep clean, and in this surface are approxi- 
mately 2,000,000 sweat glands and 500,000 oil or sebaceous 
glands to assist in throwing off the waste matter. The 
daily bath will thus be seen to be a common necessity if 
the skin is to be kept as it should be. 



THE SKIN 225 

In addition to this daily bath, it will also be necessary 
to prescribe some method of aiding the patient to thoroughly 
cleanse the system of all impurities, and for this purpose 
it is well to advise the use of copious draughts of water 
between the meals. Eight and ten glasses are none too 
many to be taken during the day, with more at night and in 
the morning before breakfast a good mineral water may 
also be taken with excellent effect. In connection with this 
work it will also be well to flush the colon at least twice 
a week by means of injections of hot water, for in addi- 
tion to the cleansing of this important reservoir, the use of 
the water stimulates the functions and nerve centers of all 
the organs in contact with the colon. 

In even* case in which the subject admits the presence 
of constipation, this procedure is a necessity, while in the 
cases in which no such admission is made the treatment will 
at least do no harm and should therefore be advocated 
wherever chloasma is found. In fact, the mere statement 
that no constipation exists is no sign at all that impacted 
feces may not be found, for in some of the most obstinate 
cases of costiveness such statements are not uncommon. 

It must be remembered that the colon is nor only a 
reservoir but is also largely endowed with absorbent glands, 
and that these glands are capable of taking up and carry- 
ing through the circulation the poisons contained in it. 
These properties of the colon can also be used for nourish- 
ing the system and so it is often called the "second stomach." 
as in cases in which people with cancer of this organ have 
been unable to take any food by way of the mouth, some- 
times not being able even to swallow a drop of water, 
they may be kept alive for days and even weeks by food 
properly prepared and injected into the colon. 

So, when one finds a subject with dull eyes, yellow 



226 THE SKIN 

skin and furred tongue, this cleansing treatment of the 
colon must be insisted upon, for in this way atone can one 
avoid having poison from the fecal matter absorbed from 
the colon and carried to the skin, lungs and in fact every 
organ of the body. 

Flushing the colon, however, differs from the ordinary 
injection, inasmuch as the object is to carry the heated 
water far up into this reservoir and have it retained as long 
as possible in order to thoroughly soften any of the hardened 
fecal masses and thus cause a cleansing of the whole canal. 
When this result cannot be accomplished by the means of 
the ordinary rectal tube, the long flexible tubes should be 
obtained and in this manner the water may be carried 
directly into the sigmoid flexure. Several trials may be 
necessary before this process can be done successfully, but 
as the results will show a marked improvement almost 
immediately after such treatments in both health and appear- 
ance, the subject is usually sufficiently stimulated to continue 
her efforts until she understands the best method of 
performing this task. 

For local treatments of the skin not only the ordinary 
massage but also the instantaneous bleaching process and 
the ecorchement system may be used. 

Most important in this bleaching process is the use of 
the antiseptic lotion with the negative galvanic electrode 
and a current of galvanism strong enough to do the work 
thoroughly. 

The ordinary f ourteen-cell battery is not strong enough, 
so either a twenty-seven cell battery or the wall plate should 
be used. The current should be applied as strong as it 
can be borne with comfort and used until the skin is 
distinctly reddened. 



THE SKIN 227 

Home care is especially necessary and the liberal use 
of powder should be advocated as a protecting agency. 

For very obstinate cases of chloasma the ecorchement 
process may be used. This process is also excellent in the 
treatment of eczema and obstinate patches will disappear 
with the mask, leaving the skin soft and smooth. It cannot, 
however, be performed by any one but a person trained 
in the work. 

ECORCHEMENT PROCESS 

The process is performed as follows: Each day for 
from five to seven days, a searching, antiseptic ointment is 
rubbed onto the skin and forced in with the blue light. 
The applications are made with cotton to prevent staining 
the finger-tips of the operator. After a few days the skin 
begins to assume a parchment-like appearance and becomes 
dry and leathery. As soon as this appearance is uniform, a 
number of coats of a liquid preparation must be painted on 
and allowed to dry until it forms a complete mask. After 
a number of days this mask begins to crack and then the 
old skin and the mask may be peeled off, leaving a per- 
fectly formed new skin beneath. Neither the peeling 
process, nor the application of the ointment, nor the wear- 
ing of the mask, will be found at all painful, but the results 
will certainly be all that one could desire. Hence, as the 
only disagreeable feature is the enforced seclusion for a 
matter of a week or ten days, the process does not 
possess many terrors for the truly ambitious soul who is 
determined to look her best. 

SALLOW AND MUDDY SKINS 

Why people in perfect health should have complexions 
that resemble russet leather is one of the puzzling problems 
that, all of us meet occasionally. Yet there is rarely a day 



228 



THE SKIN 



that one cannot see a woman who might make a fine appear- 
ance were it not for the sallow hues that make almost 
any color absolutely impossible. Cases of this kind may be 
wonderfully benefited by systematic work, but to be effective 
it must be impressed upon the mind of the patient that- as 
the skin seems to have this tendency naturally, the daily 
effort will therefore need to be systematic and persistent 
if the skin is to be kept in good condition. 

Complexions of this kind do not need a skin food. It 
is not powerful enough to bleach the skin and will therefore 
be superfluous, unless there are lines to rub out, in which 
instance, of course, it may be used in connection with the 
whitening and bleaching creme. The masseuse generally 
has a difficult customer to meet in the person of the woman 
with a complexion that has been obdurate to treatment. 
Discouraged and disheartened by past failures, she demands 
a positive improvement immediately, or she will not attempt 
the work. The first treatment is therefore a matter of 
much importance, both to the masseuse and to the patient. 

If the skin appears not only sallow but muddy and even 
at a hasty glance as though it needed a good washing, 
instead of using the lettuce creme as a preliminary to the 
treatment it is well to wash the face thoroughly with soap 
and water and then rinse it off with water to which a little 
borax has been added. Then the undiluted peroxide of 
hydrogen may be mixed with the refining powder until a 
paste is made and this paste spread over the skin and 
allowed to dry. This may then be washed off with luke- 
warm water and the whitening creme used for massage 
after forcing it in with the red light of the radio bell. 

The antiseptic lotion forced in with the negative elec- 
trode is also of great assistance in the treatment of all of 
these cases. In fact, in many instances the regular bleach- 



THE SKIN 229 

ing process needs to be taken at least once or twice a week 
for some time in order to produce the desired effect. 

Whitening cream, antiseptic lotion and powder must 
be used daily in connection with the regular treatments. 

FRECKLES 

People with unusually fine skins are often afflicted by 
freckles or, as they are sometimes called, "lentigo/' 

These spots are caused by exposure to the sun and 
in some instances become so pronounced as to be very dis- 
figuring. Ordinarily the protection afforded by a wide- 
rimmed hat and use of powder will be of avail in keeping 
them from becoming strongly evident, but often in extremely 
sensitive skins the skin will become freckled even through 
thicknesses of cloth. 

Chloasma is often, in fact is generally, a result of 
internal trouble. Freckles are always an external cosmetic 
defect. Some deep-seated freckles cannot be dislodged 
excepting by processes too dangerous for the operator to use. 

Fox advocates touching each freckle with a minute 
drop of carbolic acid. He declares though the immediate 
effect will be to whiten the spots, that in a few days they 
will be darker than ever from the epidermis forming into 
a brown crust. After this has fallen off, however, the bkin 
will be of a pink hue, gradually fading to normal. 

Hardaway recommends touching each spot with the 
electric needle and in many instances this plan has been 
successful. 

Bleaching with the carbon electrode wrapped about 
with cotton saturated in the bleaching lotion and attached 
to the negative current will have a marked effect on freckles, 
while, of course, the instantaneous bleaching process will be 
of especial aid. 



230 THE SKIN 

Home work consists in the use of the lettuce cream for 
cleansing, the whitening cream at night, bleaching lotion 
in the morning and an application of powder several times 
during the day and always before venturing into the air. 

No matter how dark the freckles, treatment will make 
them less noticeable. 

Of course, severe or dark freckles require much more 
work and it is because of them that so many women insist 
upon undergoing the "peeling process" each year. Jt is 
not necessary to remove the cuticle, as so many declare, 
though to thoroughly bleach the skin may, of course, irri- 
tate it to some extent. Those who wish to attempt it may 
use the articles advised and the galvanic treatment as well, 
discontinuing the use of the lotion when the face becomes 
decidedly red. No freckles can be kept in subjection with- 
out work. Those who have them must remember that 
this tendency is inborn and must be watched and guarded 
against the same as other blemishes of this kind. In some 
instances, as people grow older, this inclination or tendency 
seems less marked, and frequently the skin becomes free 
from spots, from no particular reason. The majority of 
sufferers, however, need to use constant care to prevent 
acquiring more freckles as well as to aid in getting rid of the 
old ones. In all of this work the habit of protecting the 
skin is the most important and care should be taken to 
avoid washing the face either just before or just after 
exposure to the air. The best manner to use a powder is 
to apply it after a skin food has been rubbed in well, and 
in order to make it effective care must be taken to see that 
the powder is one that will cling to the skin well. No ambi- 
tious woman will be deterred from this work by the fact 
that she must be constant in her attentions, for she knows 
all good results require much and untiring application. 



CHAPTER XXIV 

TREATMENT OF OILY AND STIPPLED SKINS, SCALY, AND DRY 
AND FLABBY SKINS, TAN AND SUNBURN 

Frequently the afflictions that cause the most grief are 
apparently of such innocent origin that little is done to 
relieve them and as a consequence women suffer for years 
from oily skins, feeling that nothing can be done to cure 
this trouble. 

The greased and shining appearance is so marked that 
nothing can conceal it. Drops of oil stand out in place 
of the ordinary perspiration and the victim is frequently 
so mortified that she dreads appearing in society, as the 
slightest exertion causes this sebaceous secretion to be 
poured out like an oily coating on the face and scalp and 
in some instances upon the entire body. 

The ducts of the sebaceous glands are generally 
plugged with comedones and the surface of the skin fre- 
quently appears pallid and poorly nourished. The treatment 
should be directed not only to the care of the face and 
scalp but also to the proper care of the entire body, and 
the diet as well as daily bath must be made matters of 
much importance. 

The lettuce cream may be applied most liberally before 
using this massage treatment in these instances, as the 
unguent possesses great cleansing qualities. When, after a 
few moments it is rubbed ofif, the amount of dirt that is 
found on the towel will be found to be surprisingly great, 
for the oily skin will naturally attract much soot and dust 
from the air. In some instances it is even advisable to 

231 



232 THE SKIN 

repeat the application and thus cleanse .the skin as thor- 
oughly as possible before using the massage. In this event 
the solution of soda may be used in just twice the proportion 
and hence to every bag of water, one cup of this mixture 
may be added as the alkaline mixture possesses the same 
cleansing qualities exhibited by a mild soap. The water 
may be applied as warm as possible and if the face is 
extremely oily the first treatment may be prolonged to some 
extent. 

The work has much better results where the treatments 
may be taken at least two or three times a week, for the 
first two weeks. After this time once a week will be suffi- 
cient. It is especially necessary to restore tone to the skin 
and for this purpose the manipulation is extremely beneficial. 

The diet should be limited to simple nourishing foods 
and all oily articles resolutely cut out. No sweets or fats 
or pastries should be eaten, but the fresh vegetables, broiled 
or roasted meats, and fruits may be eaten in abundance. 
The warm bath should be taken daily, and if the entire body 
has this oily appearance it is well to add to the bath one 
cup of soda and one of salt, allowing the entire body to be 
immersed in the water for some few moments and then 
using the shower with clear water. 

Treatment of the face at home will consist in washing 
it with warm water and a mild soap each night, the olive 
soap being particularly fine in such instances. Then acne 
cream may be rubbed in well until every particle has been 
absorbed. In the morning cold water with no soap should 
be used on the face and the lotion applied immediately 
afterward, then applying powder. 

The results of this treatment generally become mani- 
fest in a very short time and improvement will not only 
become more marked each day but a cure will result if 



THE SKIN 233 

sufficient patience is exercised. Of course, where this ten- 
dency exists it is always well to watch the diet carefully 
and in all cases bathing daily will naturally be a part of 
the life. 

Stippled skins looking as though the faces had been 
used formerly for the purpose of a pin-cushion, are also 
usually found in connection with an oily condition of the 
skin. In some instances these large pores have been caused 
by long neglected or chronic cases of blackheads and pim- 
ples and in such instances the insertion of the negative 
needle for a time will do much toward helping cleanse the 
cavity and stimulate the skin. Sometimes this alone will 
make the opening smaller. When, however, such is not 
the case, then the positive current, attached to a pure gold 
needle or platinum (thus leaving no sign of oxidation) can 
be used with most excellent effect. 

For generally improving the condition and making the 
skin look more refined the same mask described in the 
chapter on chloasma, made by mixing refining powder with 
bleaching lotion, can be used to great advantage. 

SCALY AND DRY SKINS 

Fortunately for the majority of womankind, there are 
comparatively few who are troubled with abnormally dry 
or rough skins. In a few instances, this trouble has appeared 
in every member of a family, and from infancy, upon any 
exposure to the air, the skin would immediately look as 
though some strong irritant had been applied. Tiny scales 
would flake off in great profusion and the skin appear 
tight and drawn, with hundreds of tiny lines covering 
the surface as though acting the part of forerunners for 
wrinkles. A number of people have acquired this tendency 



234 T H E S K I N 

after a severe nervous strain or upon recovering from an 
illness. 

The face frequently burns and smarts and when washed 
becomes red and inflamed, any application of soap making 
the condition much worse. No powder can be applied to 
protect the face, and even the slightest exposure always 
means an increased amount of trouble; the cases seem 
hopeless indeed. 

The use of the electrolytic massage is in many instances 
absolutely impossible, while in others it may in time so 
harden the skin that the trouble becomes much less than 
before. 

When the skin is abnormally sensitive the following 
method will be found extremely beneficial. The face and 
neck may be coated well with lettuce cream, and then warm 
cloths applied, using them as warm as can be borne with 
comfort. This process may be continued until the flesh 
becomes uniformly pink, when the superfluous cream may 
be removed by drawing the softest towels gently over the 
surface. Then an application of tissue food can be used 
and the regular finger massage may be given. 

Occasionally one finds a case in which the use of water 
at any time is actually impossible, as it produces a rough- 
ness immediately. In every instance such as this an oil 
must be used for cleansing the skin, instead of soap and 
water, and to get the best results it should be used as warm 
as possible. 

Complexions of this description need constant care to 
keep them in good condition, and women who are so afflicted 
should make up their minds to submit cheerfully to the 
inevitable in the shape of constant and frequent applications 
of oils and skin foods in order to keep the skin smooth. 
The fact that other people use an application of this kind 



THE SKIN 235 

once a day or once in two days should be no guide to the 
work, for every woman must study her own needs and 
fulfil them according to the peculiarities of her complexion, 
regardless of what other people advise. 

FLABBY AND WITHERED SKINS 

On many occasions young women have presented them- 
selves for treatment with skins that looked as though they 
belonged to women of seventy. In nearly every instance 
the beginning of the trouble could be traced to some severe 
illness or protracted strain or nervous occupation. Return- 
ing health seemingly does not affect the appearance of the 
skin in such instances, and hence much work is necessary, 
especially in the line of tonic treatments. 

The use of the electrolytic massage is exceedingly 
valuable in these instances, as it gives the necessary stimu- 
lation. 

The salt solution may be added to the warm water 
and the negative current used as in other treatments. 

Then prolonged finger manipulation should follow and 
application of the tissue food. The use of the red light, of 
course, precedes the finger manipulation and it should be 
continued for at least twenty minutes, gently kneading the 
skin in the meantime until more and more of the cream 
is absorbed. The amount that will be taken into the tissue 
in this manner is really astonishingly great. 

Following the application of tissue food and use of 
the red light, the faradic current may be used with finger 
manipulation. 

Last of all, the bag should be filled with cold water 
to which the alum solution has been added and the positive 
galvanic current used until the water is exhausted. 

Then the carbon electrode attached to the positive 



236 T H E S K I N 

current and wound about with cotton saturated with the 
alum solution may be used to close the treatment. 

The patient is inevitably delighted with the exhilarating 
effect of this treatment. 

Home work consists in the use of the lettuce cream for 
cleansing the tissue food for application at night. In the 
morning cold water should be dashed over the skin (unless 
it is too dry to admit of use of water) ; more tissue food 
may then be rubbed in and powder dusted on. 

Treatments should be given several times a week and 
should always include the prolonged use of the light and 
the tissue food. 

If the skin is inclined to be yellow, the whitening cream 
may be used toward the close of the treatment, but tissue 
food must be the one forced in by the light. 

The use of the cold water and alum solution is par- 
ticularly beneficial and should never be omitted. 

In the meantime the diet and manner of living must be 
considered also. Cold sponge baths should be taken each 
morning; a regular course of exercise should be adopted 
and practiced and all manner of nourishing foods eaten, 
while pastry, sweets and other indigestible condiments must 
be strictly prohibited. 

Where one is compelled to do this work at home the 
same general rules may be followed with great success, and 
as nothing but sufficient practice is needed to make the use 
of the cup possible, no one need feel that her case is hope- 
less because she is debarred from the privilege of employ- 
ing an expert in this line. 

The use of the galvanic current may be alternated with 
that of the faradic if the patient desires, or it may be con- 
tinued to the close of the period. Although this treatment 
is mentioned particularly for younger people, it also does 



THE SKIN 237 

great things for those who are older and as a consequence 
many of the elderly women who have pride in their appear- 
ance take these treatments regularly, as the effect is so 
beneficial. 

TAN 

The bronze coloring that is so attractive on the face of 
the American Indian is not especially becoming to the 
average young woman. Not only does the color produce 
a leathery effect but continued exposure to the air will in 
time so coarsen the skin that it will take a very prolonged 
course of treatments to cause any marked improvement. 

When one desires to remove tan, nothing can be better 
than the use of the instantaneous bleaching process, remem- 
bering always that after the use of this method the skin 
is more sensitive and that hence it will be necessary to use 
a thorough coating of powder in order to protect the com- 
plexion from adding to the already deep coloring. 

In addition to the bleaching process the whitening 
cream must be used at home each night, and a little tissue 
food used in the morning before applying the protecting 
coat of powder. No water should be used for cleansing 
but instead the lettuce cream used, and one should not go 
about hatless. 

This same treatment will also prevent tan and when 
followed will enable one to enjoy all the pleasures of an 
outing without suffering any of the discomforts. 

SUN-BURN 

As the name indicates, this condition is really a burn 
of the skin caused by the too ardent attention of the sun's 
rays. It is frequently very painful and any application will 
usually cause a smarting sensation. 



238 THE SKIN 

After cleansing the surface with lettuce cream, the 
tissue food may be applied and used with the red light, 
then a little acne may be used and after the smarting has 
been subdued the cream may be removed and the surface 
powdered. 

The home treatment will consist in the use of lettuce 
cream for cleansing, tissue food at night and before using 
the powder each day. 

The use of water in any case of sun-burn will posi- 
tively produce an increased irritation and it should there- 
fore never be used. Sun-burned faces cannot tolerate the 
bleaching treatment until the surface has been thoroughly 
healed. 

By proper care and protection and the generous use 
of powder, it is never necessary to become burned, no matter 
how great the exposure may be. 

The rule to be thoroughly impressed on every person 
who wishes to avoid this affliction is to use plenty of cream 
always and on every occasion avoid the use of water. No 
matter how cool it may seem or how great the temptation 
to use it, just don't, and half the trouble will be avoided. 



■f 



CHAPTER XXV 



FACIAL TREATMENTS 



In order to make the work of giving the ordinary facial 
treatment easier, it has been thought best to arrange the 
treatments for which there is the most demand in a chapter 
by themselves. 

By following these directions, using the remedies sug- 
gested, and working with the proper apparatus, but little 
difficulty should be experienced in attaining the desired 
results. 

ACNE TREATMENT WITH HIGH FREQUENCY RAY 

This treatment is excellent for bringing quick results 
in the treatment of Acne Vulgaris and all chronic, pustular, 
papular, acne conditions. 

Cleanse with lettuce cream and then go over the surface 
with follicle lotion, express comedone and the contents of 
pustules, by use of the comedone extractor. 

If the pustules are painful, or there are very hard 
papules, use the flat electrode wrapped in cotton and gauze 
and immersed in antiseptic oil on these affected portions 
first. Apply this electrode to the portion treated before 
turning on the current. Then gradually add it and press 
gently and firmly on flesh for about five or ten minutes until 
entire portion has been treated. 

Then with the spark electrode, shoot sparks into each 
papule or pustule. 

Remove antiseptic oil with gauze or cotton, wash sur- 

239 



240 THE SKIN 

face with follicle lotion and open obstinate places with the 
extractor, pressing gently to remove pus. 

Then apply acne cream on flat electrode without cotton 
for about ten minutes. 

Give finger manipulation with faradic current. 

Remove, and use lavender lotion. 

Then apply positive galvanism and finish the treatment 
with powder. 

In difficult cases it is well to alternate by using the 
antiseptic oil for one treatment and the stronger acne for 
the other. 

As both of these substances are inclined to make the 
skin a yellow tinge, a bleaching treatment given in between 
and the use of the refining powder and bleaching lotion at 
home will make the results much more effective. 

N. B. The process of shooting sparks into affected 
portions is not difficult if the special electrode is used, plac- 
ing the glass tip over the skin and then turning on the cur- 
rent. In many instances the use of the current in this 
manner will actually abort the formation of a larger pustule. 

ASTRINGENT MASK TREATMENT 

Cleanse the skin by the use of lettuce cream. If there 
is an oily condition and pores are large use the electrolytic 
cup, otherwise apply acne cream and blue light, giving 
the manipulation with or without the current, depending 
upon the degree of stimulation desired. 

Remove the cream with soda solution so that all oil 
will be absent. 

Apply astringent lotion with positive galvanic current 
from twelve to fifteen minutes. 

Then paint on the white of an egg until entire surface 
is covered. As soon as this is dry, apply the yolk of the 



THE SKIN 241 

egg, and dry with a fan. Even before the last coat is dry, 
the drawing power of this simple mask will manifest itself 
in a manner unmistakable. 

In a very few moments the patient will feel as though 
her face were in a vise. This mask may be allowed to 
remain on for five minutes and should then be removed by 
the astringent wash, which is made in this manner : 

Add one tablespoonful of astringent powder to one pint 
of water and bring it to a boil. Then dilute to make a quart 
of water. Use this freely until every particle of the mask 
has been removed, making two applications if necessary. 

Use astringent lotion and positive galvanism over the 
entire surface to close the treatment. 

Finish by applying powder. Lavender lotion may be 
used if desired before the powder is applied. 

DIRECTIONS FOR WRINKLE TREATMENT 

Cleanse the surface of the skin thoroughly with lettuce 
cream. 

Apply acne cream for the astringent effect, or if the 
skin is too dry, use the tissue food and massage well, using 
the faradic current. 

Remove all traces of oil with the soda solution. 

Then apply mask made by diluting wrinkle paste with 
either distilled water or witch hazel, using a brush for this 
purpose. 

Allow the mask to remain on for some ten or fifteen 
minutes, until a decided drawing sensation is experienced, 
then remove it by the use of tepid water. 

If the skin is very dry, use a little cream before apply- 
ing the powder and finishing the treatment, otherwise sim- 
ply apply the powder. 

Ordinarily there is no unpleasant sensation whatever 



242 THE SKIN 

connected with a treatment of this kind, but occasionally 
some one with a very sensitive skin will complain of a prick- 
ing sensation which vanishes after a few moments. 

In removing the cream from the face, care should be 
taken to draw the gauze gently over the surface in order to 
avoid irritation. 

Powder should be used liberally as a protection from 
the air. 

Treatments of this kind may be alternated with the 
regular massage work and will produce a marked effect for 
the better on the average person. 

THE TIRED-EYE TREATMENT 

The use of the eye cup and finger manipulation in con- 
junction with the bandlette for tired or inflamed eyes brings 
great relief. 

The treatment may be given as an eye treatment or 
after the regular facial movements and the eye cup used 
before the face is rouged and powdered. It is essential that 
the patron sit up for this treatment or else the solution from 
the cup will be spilt. 

In the usual eye treatment the cup is used first. The 
solution being boric acid, if the eye is badly inflamed, one 
or two drops of witch hazel may be added to the solution. 
The faradic current is used and it is necessary for the 
patient to hold the cup and the electrode. The solution is 
not so apt to be spilt then, and it is impossible for the 
operator to hold the cup. The sensation is drawing, but 
soothing, and each eye should have the cup used about three 
minutes. Then arrange the chair as for a facial. A head 
band may be applied. Enough tissue food is used to allow 
the fingers to slip easily. 



THE SKIN 



243 



The first movement is shown in the illustration. The 
patron holds the electrode, and the operator, by means of 
the wrist electrode, completes the faradic circuit. The 
movement at the corner of the eyes is a firm pressure up 
and down, with as strong a current as can be borne, contin- 
uing for about four minutes. The sensation will be drawing 




and may occasion some pain but it is obtaining the desired 
result. Then slide to the temple and give a light rotary 
movement for a minute or two. The movement on the tem- 
ple rests all the tired nerves that control the eyes. The 
bandlette, saturated with witch hazel, is then placed over 
the eyes. With the fingers together, as shown in the illus- 
tration, a gentle rotary movement is given on the bandlette 
over the eye and at the end of each a pause is made of the 
superorbital nerves. 

The bandlette treatment requires from three to five 
minutes. Leaving it over the eyes, the fingers slip to the 



244 



THE SKIN 



posterior aricular, pause and rotate, then slip to the cranial 
nerve. A firm, rotary movement is given here, alternating 
with a rotary movement on each vertebra of the spine, 
working up, this to continue from two to four minutes. 




Remove any cream that may be around the eyes, cleanse 
with lavender lotion, and powder. The treatment may be 
given in from twenty to twenty-five minutes. 



CHAPTER XXVI 

THE HAIR 

Before attempting to treat the hair, something should 
be known of what it is, how it grows, and why cert 
things may be accomplished. "Wonderful hair took 
"marvelous hair grow . rtling dandruff cures" fl 

the market and are even extolled by women in business who 
should know better. True, many of tl remedk 
some point c -ilence. They are antiseptic or stimulat- 

ing, or a combination of both, but as for the cures they can 
bring about — of course the claims are absurd. 

Under natural conditions the hair acts only as a body 
covering. People much i A to the cold often develop 

a growth of hair over the entire body. Trappers and 
men are rarely if ever bald. In the warmer climate, 
where all people live out of dc magnificent hair is the 

rule, not the exception. Xo care is given to the hair by 
people who are blessed by an abundance. Shampoos are 
infrequent, brushing is only used because it imparts a 
smooth appearance, and yet this luxuriance persists -im- 
ply because nature is always gracious to those who obey her 

rules. 

The more civilized we become, the less hair we have. 
Heavy hats, rats, pompadours, braids, certainly tend to make 
the scalp unhealthy. Late hours, undue exertion or worry, 
indigestible foods and the strain of modern life produce 
disordered nerves and consequently far from healthy bodies. 
With this combination it is small wonder that people lose 
their hair early in life. 

245 



246 THE SKIN 

In order to have an intelligent idea of the hair, we 
must think of it as a plant whose growth will be limited 
by the quality of the soil, the air and sunlight given to it. 

Hair is called a columnar epithelian formation, the 
lower part of which is embedded in the corium or subcutis, 
while the upper portion projects upward through the epi- 
dermis and above the level of the skin. 




Showing Hair Bulb Resting on Papilla. 

By imagining that a plot of grass resembles a head of 
hair, and by pulling some of the grass from the plot and 
noting the difference in the way the roots of grass extend 
down into the earth, one can readily see why some of the 
hair is planted in the corium or true skin, while some extends 
down in the deepest layer of the skin — the subcutis. 



THE SKIN 247 

Whether the downy or lanugo, or the true hair, the 
method of growth is the same and the same organs, though 
on a smaller scale, will be found, the only difference being 
in the point of size. 

These columnar epithelial cells of the hair are arranged 
very much like the shingles on the roof. This fact is taken 
advantage of by the woman who wants to stimulate luxu- 
riant hair, when she draws the comb the opposite way and 
"roughs" the hair. The artist in hair dyeing also realizes 
this point, so when the hair seems to refuse to absorb the 
dye that is applied in the ordinary way, she simply holds 
the end of the strand in her hand and draws the brush back 
again, forcing the dye under the tiny projections of these 
epithelial cells. 

The shaft of the hair is the portion projecting about 
the surface of the skin. 

The outer layer of the hair consists of the flat epithe- 
lial columnar shaped cells overlapping one another. Then 
comes the cortical substance and finally in the center the 
medulla or marrow, in which the coloring matter of the hair 
is found. 

The hair beneath the epidermis or the root of the hair 
is contained in a tiny sac called the follicle, which is nothing 
but an inversion of the corium. Imagine the corium turned 
downward at various points in the shape of a letter "U" 
that is narrower at the top than at the base, and you will 
have an idea of the shape of the hair follicle. 

Projecting up from the base of the follicle is the 
papilla, a round or cone-shaped affair which contains the 
nerve, and the blood supply, and the elements necessary for 
the growth of the hair. Fitting down over the papilla 
comes the club-shaped depression in the root of the hair 
known as the hair bulb. 



248 THE SKIN 

The sebaceous or oil glands open into the follicle just 
a little below the level of the corium where the imaginary 
letter "U" becomes a little narrower. 

The health and the strength of the hair, therefore, it 
will be seen, must depend upon the conditions existing in 
the hair follicle and the elements contained in the hair 
papilla. 

Germ diseases that destroy the follicle must also destroy 
the hair. The process of electrolysis is nothing but the 
introduction of a needle into the follicle by the side of the 
hair. The follicle is dissolved, the hair loosened and re- 
moved, and no new hair can grow because the process of 
destruction is complete. 

The length of the hair depends upon different individ- 
uals in different climates. Under ordinary conditions the 
rate of growth is about one-half inch a month. 

The life of the hair varies from two to five years, while 
the hair in the eyelash lasts about 150 days. 

Warmth and frequent cutting promote the growth. 

The pigment of the hair depends upon the color of the 
cortical substance and the air contained by the medulla. 
Soaps, alkalis and peroxide of hydrogen will destroy the 
color of the hair shaft, though of course the new hair of 
the natural color will continue to appear. 

Gray hair is said to be caused by the presence of air 
in the cortical substance. Cases are on record in which the 
hair has turned gray in a single night owing to sudden nerv- 
ous strain or fright. Many people are prematurely gray, 
the hair beginning to turn at the age of 12 and 14. 

There has been as yet no process discovered that could 
retard the approach of grayness. Scalp treatment will keep 
the hair but will not prevent the appearance of the unwel- 
come visitors. 



T H E S K I N 249 

Hair may be extended until it is one-third longer, 
owing to its elastic properties. Upon recoiling it is still 1-18 
of an inch longer than before. 

Although hair is indissoluble in water, nitric acid turns 
it yellow, and may be dissolved in hydrochloric and sul- 
phuric acids. Other substances turn it to different shades, 
a fact that is taken advantage of by the manufacturer of 
hair dyes. 

The number of hairs to the inch depends greatly on 
the color. Witkof has found that the blonde hair is always 
finer, numbering approximately [82 to the square inch, 
the brown will be 162 and the black 147. 

Oken, another scientist who has devoted much thought 
to the subject, concludes that "the hair formation is the 
connective link between vegetable and animal tissue," and 
states his opinion as follows : 

"As the plant required air and light, so in the animal 
kingdom the hair appears where it is most exposed to these 
elements — viz., on the surface. It is not a little remarkable 
that those mammals which stand nearest man (the apes) 
are distinguished by their great development of the capillary 
jtem." 

To the earnest student these words will give much 
food for thought, for from it the following deductions may 
be drawn : 

1st — The natural being living the normal life with free 
exposure to the sun and air will just as naturally be blessed 
with liberal allowance of hair. 

2nd — When human beings deliberately neglect to fol- 
low the ordinary rules governing these matters, when they 
persist in living the artificial life, made imperative by the 
demands of civilization, as a logical consequence — loss of 
hair must follow. 



250 



THE SKIN 



That care will do much for hair no one can doubt, but 
that it is real care that is needed must be forcibly impressed 
upon every one who seeks to be improved. 

"Care" does not mean a haphazard, slap-dash appli- 
cation of some tonic or other at irregular intervals, but a 
consistent course of treatment given in a systematic manner. 




A very desirable Germ-proof Hairbrush. 

As an aid to the treatment nothing can be better or 
more effective than the adoption of sensible rules for diet, 
rational methods of living and just as much exercise as 
possible. 

The cleansing of the hair is an important preliminary 
to the work of treatment and hence that subject will be 
considered next. 



CHAPTER XXVII 

SHAMPOOING THE HAIR 

Ferhaps no question is more discussed or argued at 
greater length than that of the shampoo. One authority 
will say ''shampoo at least once in ten days." Another will 
declare, "once in four weeks is quite often enough;" while 
occasionally some one will be found to assert that "once a 
year is enough for anybody." 

As a consequence, the operator who wishes to do con- 
scientious work will have to judge, not by the expression 
of the extremists, but instead by results in the majority of 
cases, and whenever she can do so, impress upon her patients 
that hair should be shampooed at least once in two weeks. 

Having decided upon the intervals at which the sham- 
poo may be given, it now becomes necessary to know how 
to give it, for though it sounds very simple indeed, and looks 
very easy, it is not really one-half as easy as it might appear. 

Be not deluded, oh, searcher for knowledge, but one 
person in ten gives a really thorough and beneficial treat- 
ment in this line. 

As a rule, a shampoo should be always given before 
a new case is taken for scalp treatment, unless there is an 
inflamed condition as in eczema that demands the applica- 
tion of ointments for some little time previous to the use of 
water. 

The use of the mixture for shampoo depends upon 
the condition of the scalp. Where it is very tender and 
sensitive the egg shampoo should be given, occasionally a 

251 



252 THE SKIN 

tar mixture may be advisable, for very oily scalps the green 
soap should be used, while for ordinary conditions the prac- 
tical shampoo is best. 

Many operators experiment until they get a shampoo 
that seems to be really desirable, and then continue to -use 
it exclusively. 

After the shampoo has been applied, brisk friction 
with the finger tips will soon assist in forming a lather. 
This does not mean scratching the head with the finger 
tips, but a vigorous rubbing over each inch of the surface 
with the balls of the fingers about the forehead, sides of 
the neck and the back. A small brush can be used to great 
advantage. 

A choice of shampoo mixture is necessary according to 
the condition to be treated. For ordinary cases the follow- 
ing will be found excellent. It is called: 

PLAIN SHAMPOO 

Castile soap 12 oz. 

Ivory soap 12 oz. 

Borax 2 oz. 

Oil of lavender and mace . . 2 dr. 

Antiseptic oil 1 oz. 

It is made by boiling together the castile and ivory 
soap, add water until a thick syrupy mixture results, then 
the borax, which has been previously dissolved in water, 
may be added and, when nearly cool, the antiseptic oil 
stirred in well. When quite cool, the oils of lavender and 
mace may be added to two ounces of alcohol and stirred in. 
The result is an excellent shampoo that will leave the scalp 
in good condition, thus creating the reputation for good 
work on the part of the operator. 



THE SKIN 253 

Too much emphasis can hardly be placed upon the 
necessity for care in this direction. No matter if some one 
else does charge less for shampoo. Explain to your callers 
what you are doing, why you get better results and you 
can arrange your prices accordingly. 

When the scalp has been covered with the scalp food 
or some oil for any length of time, a stronger shampoo is 
sometimes needed or one that will take out the grease more 
readily, though it will not necessarily inflame the scalp. 

STRONG SHAMPOO 

Green soap 12 oz. 

Ivory soap 6 oz. 

Soda y 2 oz. 

Oil wintergreen 2 dr. 

Antiseptic oil 1 oz. 

Alcohol 6 oz. 

Boil the soap thoroughly and then add soda that has 
previously been dissolved in water. Next mix in the anti- 
septic oil and when cool add the alcohol into which has 
been poured the oil of wintergreen. 

TAR SHAMPOO 

Castile soap 1 lb. 

Tar 4 oz. 

Alcohol 4 oz. 

This mixture is made by shaving the soap into small 
pieces and dissolving in water. Then the tar is added and 
the mixture boiled until it is the consistency of molasses. 
It may then be taken from the stove, cooled and the alcohol 
added. 



254 THE SKIN 

SOAPLESS SHAMPOO LIQUID 

This mixture has been recommended for very oily 
scalps. It is not practical for a general shampoo, but may 
be used with very good results in some cases, and is very 
easily prepared : 

Rum 2 qts. 

Alcohol i qt. 

Water i qt. 

Tincture cantharides i oz. 

Carbonate ammonium / 2 oz. 

Carbonate potassium i oz. 

Dissolve the ingredients in the water and add the solu- 
tion to the other ingredients mixed together and shake well. 
Moisten the scalp with this mixture by rubbing well so as to 
form a lather and then wash with cold water. 

There is a demand for an egg shampoo and this is given 
in a number of different ways. Some operators use only 
the yolks of the eggs, others use both. Ordinarily as the 
albumen of the white part coagulates so rapidly it is better to 
use just the yolks and proceed as follows : 

EGG SHAMPOO 

Yolks 6 eggs. 

Water i pint. 

Beat the eggs up thoroughly and add them to the pint 
of water, warm, not hot, pour over the head and rub thor- 
oughly, repeating the process until the scalp seems clean. 
Always be careful not to rinse with hot water, and on 
finishing be sure to rinse for the last time with water to 
which the juice of one lemon has been added. 



THE SKIN 255 

For practical purposes egg shampoos are not to be 
recommended, as they do not cleanse thoroughly, neither can 
there be any chance of destroying the germs that are always 
lodged in the hair. Excepting after the use of a hair dye 
one would hardly care to advise them. If, however, they 
must be used, remember the use of a lemon is a powerful 
aid in leaving the hair in good condition. 

Occasionally when too warm water has been used in 
an egg shampoo, the hair becomes sticky and covered with 
a gummy substance. 

Sometimes with other shampoos, and especially when 
the water is hard, the soap and water seem to form in a 
white substance that clings to the hair, making it matted 
and unmanageable. 

For this reason it is necessary to have on hand some 
sort of preparation that may be poured over the entire 
head and used freely until the hair is once more pliable 
and silky. 

The following will be found excellent: 

AID TO SHAMPOO 

Water 2 qts. 

Alcohol 6 oz. 

Acetic acid 6 oz. 

Shake well and pour over head and hair, then pour on 
gradually a little water and rinse as after a shampoo. Usu- 
ally not more than two applications will be necessary. 




Electric Singer 



THE SKIN 257 



SINGEING THE HAIR 



Authorities now unite in declaring that the hair thrives 
better when the broken or split ends are removed. 

Naturally the best time of ail to do this is before the 
shampoo. For this reason, every operator should as a mat- 
ter of course, examine the ends of the hair, and if they 
seem dry, broken or split, proceed to give the singe. 

By means of a new electrical device — a patent hair 
singer — the heaviest growth of hair can be taken care of in 
not to exceed ten minutes of time, and done in a way far 
more satisfactory than by the old clipping method. 

Singes can be given every time before a shampoo, but 
at the least should be given once in four weeks. 

HOW TO GIVE A SHAMPOO 

Seat the patient comfortably before the mirror, remove 
the hair-pins, place all extra hair and pins in pan sterilizer, 
and brush the hair free from all dust. 

Pour follicle lotion in a small dish, and use a pledget 
of gauze moistened in this lotion for rubbing over the 
scalp, being careful to cover the entire portion. 

Then rub finger tips over the scalp briskly for a few 
moments. 

Next, adjust the shampoo board to the desired height. 
Place a small towel over the neck of the board and arrange 
other about the neck of the patient so that the cold metal 
will not touch the flesh. 

Add the shampoo mixture to half a cup of very warm 
water and pour this warm mixture over the patient's head 
very slowly. Always see that the mixture is warm in order 
to avoid the slimy effect produced by the cold shampoo. 

Use the brush to rub about the sides of the face and 



258 THE SKIN 

the forehead, and rub the tips of the fingers briskly over the 
head, adding warm water until a good lather has been 
formed. Rinse off the soap and apply the second appli- 
cation of shampoo in the same way, rubbing and rinsing 
thoroughly. If the scalp is entirely cleansed and the hair 
not sticky, continue the rinsing process with a little cooler 
water. 

Wring the water out of the hair. Place a bath towel 
over the head and press out all the dampness possible. Rub 
the fingers briskly over the scalp, and then turn the warm 
air from the dryer on the head. Be sure the air is warm, 
as otherwise a serious cold may result. 

When the hair is practically dry, apply more follicle 
lotion over the entire scalp and rub briskly with the finger 
tips for a few moments until a tingling sensation is expe- 
rienced. 

The object in using the follicle lotion is two-fold. In 
the first place it cleanses the scalp thoroughly and prepares 
for the shampoo mixture. Used at the last it is a mild 
antiseptic and leaves the scalp and hair in excellent condi- 
tion, free from the appearances of excessive dryness so 
invariably seen when strongly alkaline substances are used. 

Giving a good shampoo means being thorough in every 
detail and inevitably builds up a reputation for the one who 
can do the work well. 

SHAMPOOING BEFORE A HAIR DYE 

No matter what the dye may be, the real object of a 
shampoo before a hair dye is to remove all traces of oil. 
So whether one is to have a henna or other dye, in addition 
to the use of the regular shampoo mixture, about a quarter 
of a box of baking soda should be emptied into the basin of 



THE SKIN 259 

water and poured over the head in connection with the use 
of the shampoo itself. 

Continue to rub and rinse until the hair is free from 
every trace of oil. Then, after also being certain that all 
the soda has been removed by rinsing process, the hair may 
be dried and the dye applied. 

SHAMPOOING STICKY OR MATTED HAIR 

Occasionally one finds patients who have used peroxide 
on their hair. In cases of this kind it is almost impossible 
to give a satisfactory shampoo. The hair feels gummy and 
sticks to the comb. Inexperienced operators are apt to blame 
the shampoo mixture, while the patient declares her head is 
not clean. 

Here, too, a little soda in the water helps matters (recol- 
lect, common home baking soda, not washing soda). 

Several applications of the shampoo mixture must be 
made and the hair very thoroughly rinsed in water and 
finished by having a finishing rinse of the juice of one lemon 
added to a pint of water, or half an ounce of acetic acid 
used in the same manner. 

SHAMPOOING AFTER A HOT OIL TREATMENT 

When the hair has been saturated with oil, it naturallv 
follows that more shampoo must be used to get the scalp 
free from any such appearance. 

Hence, often it will be necessary to use the soda in the 
water and repeat the applications of shampoo mixture sev- 
eral times until every particle of oil has disappeared. 

An easy way for the novice to test this fact is to hold 
up a lock of hair. Then if the bubbles of water seem to 
separate and cling to the hair it denotes an oily condition. 
Otherwise there will be a uniform appearance. 



260 THE SKIN 

THINGS TO REMEMBER 

Before commencing the shampoo see that the gown 
is thoroughly protected and the lady seated in a comfortable 
position. 

Use a small brush about the sides of the head, front 
and back in order to thoroughly cleanse. 

If there is a thick coating of grease on the scalp use 
a little alcohol on cotton before applying the shampoo. 

Be careful to have the shampoo mixture warm before 
pouring it on the head. Nothing is more disagreeable than 
the cold, slimy feeling from the unheated mixture. 

Rub the scalp with the finger tips. Don't scratch. 

If the hair is long, pour the shampoo over different 
sections and rub thoroughly. 

Use plenty of water for rinsing, beginning always with 
warm and ending with cool. 

Never be persuaded to rub the hair dry. You use too 
much friction to be good for the scalp and do not produce 
as good a result as with the mild heat of a good dryer. 

Do not confound a sunbath with drying the hair in the 
sun. The former is excellent, the latter makes it streaked. 

Never direct a current of cold air, even in summer, 
against the patient's head. It is dangerous and may pro- 
duce a number of bad results. 

In winter be sure that the shampoo room is warm 
and be very particular that the hair is perfectly dry before 
your patient leaves the shop. In fact at no season of the 
year should there be any carelessness in this respect. 

In treatment of all scalp diseases add the antiseptic oil 
to the shampoo for the germicidal effect. 

Always apply follicle lotion after the shampoo, as it 
leaves the scalp in excellent condition. 



THE SKIN 261 

Be sure to use a fresh comb and brush both before and 
after the shampoo. Never use the same articles twice. 

Cleanse the shampoo board with soap and water first, 
then use a four per cent solution of formalin after each 
shampoo. 

Don't forget to cleanse the under as well as the upper 
part of the shampoo board. 

Bear in mind that the more pleasing the shampoo, the 
oftener will your patron return. 



CHAPTER XXVIII 



CARE OF THE SCALP 



One of the greatest drawbacks to the successful giving 
of scalp treatments is the fact that the great majority of 
people never consider the necessity for frequent and sys- 
tematic exercise of the scalp until a marked hair loss has 
commenced. 

Sometimes the person so afflicted waits for months 
before consulting the specialist and then is only willing to 
come at irregular intervals, objects to the use of oily sub- 
stances, thinks electricity harmful and has a hundred and 
one other fanciful objections to offer to the woman who is 
trying to do good work. 

It is small wonder then, that with all sorts of things 
working against her efforts and with but little knowledge of 
the subject, the great majority of people w T ho are engaged 
in this line of work have but little faith in the real efficiency 
of scalp treatments. 

It is for this reason there exists the positive necessity 
for a real understanding of what the hair is, how it grows 
and what may be done toward keeping it in a healthy 
condition. 

Added to this knowledge must be personality so posi- 
tive that the patient will be perfectly willing to promise 
obedience in following directions and in taking treatments 
as frequently as the case demands. 

With these requisites and a sufficient stock of patience, 
any operator can be reasonably sure of acquiring more 
than a local reputation for her skill in caring for the 
scalp. 

262 



THE SKIN 263 

The care of the hair forms a more important part of 
our daily lives than most people realize. 

Among savages, or those who expose the uncovered 
head to the light and air, disease is seldom encountered, 
while long, luxuriant locks are the rule. Trappers, hunters, 
sailors, and in fact all men who live a normal out-of-door 
life and are not addicted to dissipation prove this rule. 

Civilization on the other hand tends to weaken this 
growth. Heavy hats, quantities of extra hair, hairpins kept 
firmly in place, warm rooms, late hours, indigestible foods, 
all tend to reduce the quantity as well as the quality of the 
hair. 

When in normal condition the hair is glossy, flexible 
and full of life. Ill or indifferent health at once shows its 
effects by the dull lustreless appearance that results. Any 
serious alteration in the blood is sure to tell sooner or later 
upon the hair. Increasing experience will convince any one 
that the hair is often an index to the general health and 
that in obstinate cases of falling hair systematic as well 
as local treatment is needed. 

Among the disorders that play an important part in 
hair loss are found anemia, indigestion, constipation, rheu- 
matism, nervous disorders and any form of dissipation. 

Specialists are also now convinced that practically every 
case of hair loss, dandruff, premature greyness, excessive 
dryness or oiliness, in short, all ordinary troubles are greatly 
assisted by the presence of germs. 

The hair being a very good trap for dust and germs 
is of course constantly covered with these tiny micro- 
organisms. In good health they may be almost harmless, 
but as soon as the physical condition is less vigorous and 
the resistance lowered, they find the watched for oppor- 



264 T H E S K I N 

tunity and commence at once to lend their aid to the process 
of destruction. 

Modern treatment must then be based on the use of 
antiseptics that will at least render these germs harmless. 
In addition, manipulation, electrical treatments and certain 
applications are indicated for the purpose of increasing the 
blood supply to the scalp and making the surface flexible 
and healthy. 

Before taking any case of treatment the operator should, 
however, be thoroughly informed on the necessity of sterili- 
zation. 

ADVICE TO THE PATIENT 

The patient should be advised that it is absolutely neces- 
sary to pay strict attention to her own combs and brushes 
at home, that they must not only be washed and cleansed, 
but also sterilized with the formalin solution at least once 
a week in order to keep them in good condition. 

When the patient applies for treatment, she should 
have a careful explanation of the germ theory and the 
operator should insist upon sterilizing all of the extra hair 
and giving a shampoo before a treatment. The patient must 
also promise to have her own brush and comb cleansed and 
sterilized immediately upon returning home. 

In this way alone can one combat germ troubles suc- 
cessfully, as otherwise treatment would only help tempo- 
rarily. 

The cleansing of the superfluous hair is easily accom- 
plished by rinsing it in gasoline to which a little formalin 
has been added and then placing in a sterilizer exposed to 
the fumes of the formalin while the treatment is given. 

Unless this precaution is taken, the operator is posi- 
tively avoiding her duty and should be severely reprimanded. 




Ijvenient. C 1 Fingers in Rotary Motion 



266 THE SKIN 

Many cases of scalp treatment owe their retarded re- 
covery to the operator who is not strong enough to insist 
upon her directions being carried out. 

In addition to the sterilization of brushes and extra 
hair, there should be a positive rule that a shampoo be 
given at least every two weeks and that the treatments 
themselves are taken whenever they are necessary, and not 
when it happens to suit the convenience of the patient. 

With scalp treatments as with many great enterprises 
we do not meet results, except by reiterated efforts and 
often the first proof of success comes at the instant when 
we had almost despaired of success. 

In the directions for the treatment that will follow, the 
only requisite for success is patience and conscientious 
adherence to the suggestions. Success is sure to follow. 

The most important requisites for a really fine condition 
of both hair and scalp apart from the very necessary cleanli- 
ness are ventilation and the proper amount of friction. In 
many instances where delicate children have the trouble of 
scanty locks as well, the systematic care after weekly sham- 
poos has done wonders. No matter whether the hair is 
extremely oily, or exceptionally dry, long or short, the foun- 
dation of all good work is based on the adoption of cer- 
tain sensible rules, and it may be confidently asserted that 
if more people would understand and practice these instruc- 
tions there would be few cases of bald heads. 

The process of giving scalp massage is daily gaining 
a wider recognition on account of the immense benefit de- 
rived wherever this practice has been faithfully carried out. 

It is given for the purpose of causing a healthy con- 
dition of the scalp, and always follows the application of 
something like the follicle cleanser, a mild antiseptic much 
used for cleansing the surface of the face or scalp. 




Scalp Movement. Holding Fingers Firmly and Pressing 
in Alternate Directions 



268 THE SKIN 

Naturally in very much diseased conditions, the scalp 
massage cannot be given, but instead local application may 
be made and the use of the flat electrode in the prismatic 
ray treatment made to replace the fingers. 

Otherwise, however, after the scalp is. thoroughly 
cleansed with the follicle cleanser, the faradic current may 
be procured and the operator will fasten the electrode to 
her own wrist. The patient will hold the other electrode, 
the scalp will be thoroughly moistened with the tonic indi- 
cated by conditions found, and the treatment will proceed as 
follows : 

First, hair should be parted in straight lines from the 
forehead to the back of the neck. Then commence from 
the forehead and use the first two fingers of each hand in 
a rotary movement that affects the entire scalp, moving 
toward the crown of the head. Continue this from all parts 
of the head, back and front toward the crown. 

Next, with the thumbs kept stationary, and fingers 
spread out under the hair, a general circular movement 
should be given that will move the scalp, first in one direc- 
tion and then in another as shown in illustration. 

By these movements continued over entire scalp a very 
thorough treatment may be given. The operator must re- 
member not to draw her fingers over the hair in a brisk 
rubbing but to move the scalp under her fingers in a deep 
rotary movement. 

The scalp must be kept very moist as the hair is a non- 
conductor of electricity and unless it is dampened, the cur- 
rent will have no appreciable effect. 

Following the manipulation will usually come the use 
of the sanitary hair brush with the galvanic current that is 
indicated, or the prismatic ray may be used. 

In the use of the brush it must be dragged slowly over 



THE SKIN 269 

the scalp so that each portion is affected by the electric 
current, always remembering that the scalp must be kept 
moist. A brisk rubbing makes the treatment absolutely use- 
less as no particular sensation can be felt. 

The sanitary hair bush is much used because it can 
be cleansed so thoroughly and will last a lifetime no matter 
how often it is sterilized, whereas those with the rubber 
backs are not only uncleanly but are short-lived affairs. 

In ordinary treatments, the following rules are ob- 
served : 

First, the scalp is cleansed with the follicle lotion. 

The hair is parted and tonic indicated applied. 

Next, faradic current is used with finger manipulation. 

Last, more tonic and use of the galvanic current indi- 
cated by means of the sanitary hair brush electrode. 

Blue lights may also be used last of all to aid in dry- 
ing the tonic from the hair and also for the antiseptic effect 
of the light. 



CHAPTER XXIX 

COMMON DISEASES OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 

Usually the first thing an operator is asked is, "Can 
you help me from losing all my hair?" 

There may be a dozen reasons for this condition, but 
none of them count with the patient. What she wants is 
relief and that as quickly as possible. 

The operator, on the other hand, before making any 
promise at all, must examine the scalp, note whether it is 
anemic or irritated, examine the hair and see whether it 
feels full of life, soft and silky, or harsh and brittle. An 
observation should also be made of the general appearance 
of the patient to see whether she appears in good or bad 
health. Then and then only, can an intelligent answer be 
given. 

Naturally a well trained operator will be able to recog- 
nize all of the ordinary scalp diseases and call them by their 
proper names. She may not, in fact she usually will not, 
consider any attempt at treating difficult cases, but she 
should be able to recognize them. 

In the study of scalp diseases, the term Alopecia is 
very frequently encountered. It always means a falling of 
the hair. The word associated with it simply indicating 
what one of the various forms of hair loss is indicated. 

Alopecia Areata means a falling in patches or areas 
as shown in illustration (page 271). The trouble may come 
on suddenly, within twenty-four hours in fact. The hair 
may be most luxuriant and apparently healthy and yet 
suddenly perfectly bald and shiny white patches will appear 
without one spear of hair. 

270 





1 * If! ^ 



Use of High Frequency for Alopecia Areata 



272 



THE SKIN 



Specialists differ as to trie causes. Some declare the 
trouble to be of germ and others saying it is of nervous 
origin. As it usually comes after a nervous shock or strain, 
there are more who favor the theory of nervous origin, but 
at any rate, in order to be on the safe side, treatment should 
be so planned that both conditions may be considered. 




Alopecia Areata 



First of all, a thorough sterilization of extra hair, 
combs, brushes and even the inside of hat linings should 
be given and the patient instructed to carry out the same 
process at home. 

A shampoo must be given before treatments and then 
the entire surface carefully treated by the follicle lotion. 
If the scalp is very dry, hair tonic for dry scalp may then 
be used, and if oily the other tonic should be applied and 



THE SKIN 273 

faradic current with finger manipulation given. Then the 
negative current should be used as strong as it can be borne, 
devoting especial attention to the affected portions and 
continuing the stimulation as long as the patient will allow 
it. Last of all, a little of the scalp ointment may be rubbed 
in and the blue lights used over the entire surface, or the 
prismatic ray used in conjunction with the scalp food. 

When possible electricity and application of the scalp 
food and prismatic ray treatment should be given for six 
days in succession and then a shampoo given. 

Then the same treatment may be repeated and the scalp 
food applied two or three times a week for at least two 
months. The patient in the meantime of course using the 
tonic indicated at home. 

As a result of this treatment, a fine growth of hair will 
soon be seen. Oftentimes this new growth comes in per- 
fectly white, but many times the use of electricity and 
proper remedies seems to aid in bringing it back to the 
natural color. 

Alopecia Congenita — A natural absence of the hair 
— is rarely amenable to treatment. There are cases in 
which this condition has been found generation after genera- 
tion in the same family. Occasionally people are born who 
are totally bald. With others there is a thinness of the 
hair in certain sections, for instance on the back of the 
head or on the crown. At other times, there is merely a 
generally thin condition. 

In cases of this kind, just the stimulating scalp treat- 
ment may be given and the patient told that nothing can 
be promised in he way of producing an abundant growth, 
thus the scalp and hair can be kept in a healthful condition 
by proper attention. 



274 



THE SKIN 



Alopecia Pityrodes — also called Pityriasis and some- 
times considered as Seborrhoea Sicca, is a form of hair 
loss in which the scalp is covered with fine or bran-like 
scales, and is usually accompanied by intense itching, the 
scalp itself feels dry and parchment-like and hair is hars'h 
and lustreless. This condition is frequently a result of 
constitutional trouble and is often difficult to treat. 




Pityriasis 



First, of course, the shampoo must be given and then 
the follicle lotion used. If the scalp is extremely sensi- 
tive, the finger manipulation with the faradic current may 
be omitted and the scalp food applied with prismatic ray 
or blue light. The reason for the use of the scalp food 
in this case is especially for the germicidal effect and also 



THE SKIN 



275 



because of its action on the oil glands. The follicle lotion 
should be used once a day and the scalp food applied 
with the blue light until after the sixth day, the shampoo 
may be given and this may be followed by a stimulating 




Alopecia Senilis 

treatment and use of the antiseptic oil instead of the scalp 
food. 

These remedies may then be alternated and for some 
two or three months giving treatments at least three times 
a week and shampoos once a week until condition has 
improved. 

Great care must of course be taken in sterilization of 
hair brushes and hat linings. 

Alopecia Senilis is the natural loss of hair occurring 
in old age. Hair becomes lustreless, shining and gray. If 



276 THE SKIN 

the scalp appears shining and tense, little can be promised. 
Otherwise repeated effort may bring out a fresh growth of 
hair. The treatment will be stimulating, using tonic indi- 
cated by condition of the scalp and much blue light and 
antiseptic oil should be used occasionally also. 

Alopecia Symptomatica is the name given to a fall- 
ing of hair that is caused by some general disturbance. The 
treatment here must be entirely stimulating and should be 
continued for an indefinite period. Much stimulation, a 
great deal of the faradic current, use of the blue light and 
prismatic ray will all be of benefit in these cases. 

Brittleness of the Hair — This condition is usually 
found in cases of disturbed nutrition. It may be due to 
nervous strain, to a fever or to some local disease. Split 
ends frequently appear and the hair breaks off so that it 
never gets beyond a certain length. 

In addition to a general tonic, much attention should 
be paid to the most stimulating form of scalp treatment with 
the use of the follicle lotion alternated with the tonic, each 
night at home and much rubbing with the fingers. 

Office Treatment will consist of first cleansing with 
the follicle lotion, then manipulation with the faradic cur- 
rent, then use of either the negative galvanic current or the 
prismatic ray. The blue light will be used at the last to 
remove superfluous moisture and also because of the effect 
on the scalp. In all these cases, the split ends should be 
clipped off and not singed. 

Canities, also called grayness of the hair or whiteness 
of the hair. This condition is said to be brought about by 
the absence of the pigment and the appearance of air spaces 
in the cortical substance of the hair. When the grayness 
is due to loss of pigment there is observed a slight or some- 




Use of Ideal Scalp Electrode with High Frequency for Scalp 

Treatments 



278 THE SKIN 

times a pronounced yellow tint. When due to presence of 
air spaces, it appears gray or snow-white. 

Canities is of two forms — congenital and acquired. 

In the congenital kind, we find the albinos, who are 
also afflicted by an absence of pigment in the rest of the 
skin. 

Frequently, too, there are found people who have been 
born with a white streak or tuft of hair which has been 
handed down for generations. 

Acquired canities may be premature, senile or acci- 
dental. 

In the premature form, children of fourteen have been 
known to have perfectly white hair, while it is quite com- 
mon to see cases that have turned white at eighteen and 
twenty. In these instances, no treatment has any effect 
whatever. 

Senile canities is the natural accompaniment of old age 
and cannot be helped by treatment. The only remedy is 
a dye. 

Accidental canities in the form occasionally encoun- 
tered in which a patch of hair will come in perfectly white 
as in after a case of alopecia areata, and perhaps this streak 
will occur after a severe attack of neuralgia. 

Treatment is seldom productive of good results in 
restoring color in either the premature or senile canities. 
Though cases are on record where the prolonged use of the 
electric current has brought back the natural color. 

Often in cases of accidental canities, treatment has 
made the hair a uniform color. This of course was the 
ordinary scalp treatment. 

Eberhart reports cases in which the use of high fre- 
quency currents was productive of the desired results. 
This, however, only occurred after months of treatment. 



THE SKI X 

Consequently when one desires to conceal the appear- 
ance of grayness, there is only one immediate remedy and 
that is the use of a dye. 

Ordinary scalp treatments must be conducted with 
great care, because of the tendency to make the hair yellow. 
Shampoos should be given very cautiously, only the special 
hair tonic indicated should be used and at no time should a 
very hot iron be used. Stimulation by electricity, the use 
of the blue light and brushing imparts a brilliance to pure 
white hair that is very beautiful. 

Dandruff, see Seborrhoea. 

Eczema, as described in the chapter devoted to that 
subject, is frequently found on the scalp. It is many times 
associated with seborrhoea and sometimes confused with 
psoriasis. The distinguishing point between eczema and 
seborrhoea is that one is a greasy but not inflamed surface, 
while with eczema there is frequently inflammation and 
often an oozing of serum. 

Eczema may also be told from psoriasis because of 
the difference in way of forming, eczema usually appearing 
in confluent patches, while in psoriasis there is a tendency 
to a circular shape. 

The scales in eczema are usually yellow, while those 
in psoriasis are silvery white. Lifting the scales or crusts 
in eczema leaves an inflamed surface with serum, while in 
psoriasis a tiny bleeding portion is disclosed. 

Pediculosis, use of hair dyes, scratching the head are 
all causes for the appearance of this trouble, aside from the 
original constitutional tendenck 

Treatment coi> n the cleansing off of the patch 

This can usually only be accomplished by the application of 
the scalp ointment or the antiseptic oil for several days in 
succession, until crusts are softened. Then a shampoo may 



280 



THE SKIN 



be given. The follicle lotion may also be used for cleans- 
ing the surface before use of the scalp food. The blue 
light should always be used for forcing in the scalp food. 
Prismatic ray is of especial benefit in all of these cases. 

























. 






•■ 


ES1K 






























•" - 




lit '<$*"- '„ ' 


-- ." 





Favus 



Favus is not commonly seen in America. It is due 
to a fungus that invades the hair follicle and tends to grow 
up and out in the shape of a tiny cup. Beginning as a small 
red spot, it gradually turns yellow, forming a cup-shaped 
orifice. The hair in affected areas always fall out, rarely 
to return. 

It is a disease said to be communicated by cats and 
may attack other sections of the body, including the nails. 
It is extremely objectionable and can always be told from 



THE SKIN 



281 



the mouse-like odor emanating from the affected portions. 
Treatment should not be attempted at the office. 

Treatment consists in removing with epilation forceps 
every affected hair. Surface may then be swabbed with 
antiseptic oil and the scalp food forced in with the blue 
light, continuing this treatment for a week, when shampoo 
may be given and treatment continued until the scalp is 
clear. The affected hair must be in the meantime removed. 
Operator should wear rubber gloves and everything should 
be scrupulously sterilized, that is in or about the patient. 

Gray xess of Hair, see Canities. 






Body Lous 



Louse 



Nit 



Pediculosis Capitis is the term used to describe the 
ordinary head-louse. These parasites are found as a rule 
among uncleanly people but are often seen among those of 
the wealthy classes and may be easily communicated in street 
cars, berths on the sleeping cars, or in toilet shops where 
extreme caution is not maintained. 

Although harmless in themselves, these pediculi cause 
an irritation that induces an intense scratching and from 
this many forms of disease may result, such as eczema. 

The pediculi themselves are easily killed but their eggs 
in the shape of "nits" frequently resist ordinary measures 



282 THE SKIN 

and hatch out in a few days, producing fresh crops of these 
pests much to the mortification of the victim. 

Any one of the well known antiseptics, such as formalin, 
carbolic acid or a mercury preparation will kill the pediculi 
but these preparations will not affect the nits or eggs. 
These are fastened to the hair by a gummy substance ap- 
pearing like little white or grayish lumps. Many times 
when the scalp has been neglected the hair is covered with 
these nits for a distance of an inch or so. 

Cheap hair is frequently sold just because of the pres- 
ence of nits. The purchaser buys it ignorantly and in a 
few days finds her head swarming with the pests that have 
been hatched out by the warmth of the scalp. 

Treatment of course consists in an application that 
will at once destroy the parasites and will also aid in dis- 
solving the nits. 

For this purpose nothing is better, less harmful to the 
hair and less dangerous to the patient than the use of tinc- 
ture of larkspur. The hair should be saturated with it and 
the patient made to sit for an hour or so before the shampoo 
is given. Then the scalp food (also excellent for destruc- 
tion of the pediculi) may be rubbed in. 

The next day more larkspur should be applied the 
length of the hair ; and the following day another shampoo 
given. Repeat the application of the scalp food again. The 
hair should then be examined for "nits," and if more are 
present more larkspur should be used and this treatment 
continued until every trace has been destroyed. In this 
connection, too, one must be careful to see that hat linings 
be treated also, as occasionally stray pediculi are found 
there. 

When the hair is much infested, treatment should be 
given at the patient's home and not at the office. It is 



T H E S K I N 283 

customary to make a reasonably large charge for this atten- 
tion. 

Psoriasis though not as common as eczema is still very 
frequently found and is usually accompanied by intense 
itching. 




Psoriasis 

It is found over the entire body as well as on the scalp 
and is told from eczema by the following points of differ- 
ence. 

It tends to form in circumscribed patches, not in con- 
fluent masses. 

It is formed of silvery or at least white looking scales 
that are found in eczema. 

When scales or patches are lifted, tiny bleeding points 
are seen beneath, whereas in eczema an inflamed and usually 
oozing surface is disclosed. 



284 



THE SKIN 



No authorities promise a cure for this condition, though 
marked relief can certainly be obtained through persisting 
and never ending attention. 

Treatment is as follows : First, cleanse the scalp with 
the follicle lotion, then apply the scalp ointment and force 




Ringworm 

in with the blue light or glass electrode of prismatic ray. 
If latter treatment is used, the electrode may be moved 
about sections affected until surrounding skin looks pink. 
The application of scalp food should be continued until 
patches are dryer and may be lifted off when an application 
directly over the affected surface should oe made. Shampoo 
may not be given until scalp is covered with dry patches. 

The negative ball electrode may also be used over 
surface after patches have been removed, though prismatic 
ray will be found the cleanest and most effective treatment. 



THE SKIN 285 

Ringworm or Trycophytosis is an inflammatory dis- 
ease resulting from a parasitic growth. This disease is 
found both upon the body and the scalp and is manifested 
by small round patches in which the hair appears as broken 
off all about the edges while the center is often clear or 
covered with fine scales. Sometimes half spheres filled with, 
semi-fluid, very painful to the touch, are found. 

This disease is extremely contagious and one would 
not care to have the average person touch it, hence it should 
always be referred to the physician. The operator runs 
too great chances of infecting herself and other patients 
to treat it. If in a small town where no physician will 
attempt it, the antiseptic oil alternated with scalp food may 
be applied, all affected hair must be removed with epilation 
forceps and applications continued daily until conditions are 
improved. 

Ringed Hair — Quite frequently persons will apply for 
treatment, stating that the hair is changing in color. Some- 
times it will be of a uniform shade to a certain distance and 
then all of a sudden an abrupt and decidedly artificial look- 
ing change of color will be presented. 

Occasionally, the entire length of the hair will have 
a banded appearance, looking as though white rings had 
been alternated with the original color. This condition may 
affect the entire head or just single clumps. It is often 
found in connection with the white spots of the nails and 
is usually associated with some nervous disturbance. Noth- 
ing in the way of treatment can be said to be of positive 
benefit, though of course manipulation and electricity with a 
stimulating tonic will be of use in improving the condition 
of the scalp and in time this will affect the hair. 

Seborrhoea, commonly called dandruff, is a functional 
disease of the sebaceous glands characterized by an exces- 



286 THE SKIN 

sive deposit of sebum. It is the commonest cause of bald- 
ness and it is very frequently found in connection with 
anaemia, dyspepsia, constipation, rheumatic troubles and 
after convalescence of severe illness. 

Although no separate germ has been selected as being 
the chief factor in seborrhoea, the majority of specialists 
now declare that is is of an infective nature by watching 
whole families in which there is a tendency to this scurvy 
condition. 

Seborrhoea may take on several different forms from 
the yellow cradle crust of the infant, which if neglected 
often causes thin hair for the rest of life, to the drops of 
oil exuding about the nose, forehead and cheeks of the 
colored people, and also from some of the white races. 

Occasionally one will find cases in which there has 
been an excessive deposit of seborrhoea that has persisted 
for years and yet both hair and scalp are otherwise healthy. 
These cases of course form such a marked exception that 
they should not be taken as guides, for sooner or later, 
trouble is sure to ensue. 

Aggravated cases of seborrhoea are sometimes mistaken 
for eczema and are occasionally confounded with psoriasis, 
but as mentioned before, can usually be told because of the 
fact that a removal of the crusts or plaques leaves no in- 
flammatory condition. 

- When persons are in good general health, there is every 
chance of arresting this process and restoring the scalp 
to a healthy condition, though of course after fifty, one can- 
not expect as good results as from those of fewer years. 
Still there are cases on record in which people of seventy 
years, have under the constant use of electricity and manip- 
ulation been rewarded by a fine growth of hair. Patience 



T H E S K I N 287 

and perseverance will no doubt work most wonderful effects 
but treatments must begin at regular intervals. 

Seborrhoea is manifested in two forms. 

Seborrhoea Sicca is the dry, powdery form in which 
the scalp itself feels dry, and is covered with fine, white 
scales that dust off, powdering the clothes and causing a 
generally untidy appearance. The hair is usually dry and 
lustreless. 

Seborrhoea Oleosa denotes an extremely oily condi- 
tion characterized by the exudation of drops of oil found on 
the face as well as the scalp and making the hair greasy 
and unpleasant to touch. Often in these conditions, the 
scalp appears anaemic. Another form of seborrhoea oleosa 
is that in which the head is covered with plaques of greasy 
deposit, requiring quite a bit of effort to remove. 

Seborrhoea oleosa requires the use of oily substances 
at first because the oil glands themselves must be reached 
by the various medication in order to really remedy the 
trouble. Just a plain shampoo will not sufficiently cleanse 
the scalp, so when the condition is extremely obstinate the 
follicle cleanser should be first used, then the scalp food 
forced in with the blue light and after this the stronger 
shampoo should be given with the faradic current after a 
liberal application of the tonic for oily scalps. 

Following this, if the condition has been very obstinate, 
the positive galvanic current may be used and then more 
scalp food forced in with the blue light or the scalp food 
may be rubbed into the scalp well and the prismatic ray 
used for forcing it in and also for stimulation. The patient 
should apply the oily hair tonic each morning, rubbing the 
scalp briskly for at least ten minutes. The scalp food should 
be used every night and at least three scalp treatments 
given the first week. On the sixth day, another shampoo 



288 T H E S K I N 

may be given and then the use of the tonic for oily scalp 
resumed, using it at night instead of the morning. The 
scalp ointment may be applied twice the second week and 
once the week after and continue the same until a decided 
improvement is manifested. 

Seborrhoea Sicca — Dry dandruff requires rather a 
different treatment. In this, after the scalp has been 
cleansed with the follicle lotion, the manipulation may be 
given with the faradic current and then use the hair tonic 
for dry scalp followed by the use of the negative galvanic 
current. Then the antiseptic oil may be applied, using the 
blue light or the prismatic ray. The patient should have 
three treatments a week and use the antiseptic oil at night 
and the tonic in the morning for six days, when a shampoo 
may be given and the antiseptic oil discontinued for three 
days when it should be applied at night and the tonic used 
in the morning. In three days this oil should be applied 
again and after that only the use of the tonic will be neces- 
sary at home if the office treatments are continued. Of 
course the oil is always applied before a shampoo. 

HINTS TO OPERATORS 

Impress upon your patients the importance of the 
sterilization of their own combs and brushes at least once a 
week. 

Never take a case for scalp treatment without first 
giving a thorough shampoo and also sterilizing the extra 
hair. When in doubt about an infectious disease, add more 
antiseptic oil to the shampoo. 

Remember that greasiness, irritation and dandruff indi- 
cate a diseased condition of the scalp even when no other 
symptoms are present. 



T H E S K I N 289 

Never attempt the treatment of a badly diseased scalp 
when it is possible to avoid it. When in certain emergencies 
such attention is necessary, do your work only at the 
patient's home, remembering always the danger of infection 
to yourself and to other patients. 

Do not lose sight of the fact that in the earlier stages 
of disease all ordinary forms of scalp trouble are curable. 
Tn more advanced cases hair loss may be checked or a 
healthy growth induced, though former luxuriance cannot 
be promised. 

The blue light not only has a germicidal effect, but is 
valuable in increasing the glossy appearance of the hair. 

Do not neglect to inform your patient that nearly all 
cases of falling hair can be traced directly to neglected 
dandruff or an irritable condition that has sometimes per- 
sisted for years. Be firm in your insistence regarding the 
scalp food. It is one of the most valuable assistants you 
have because of its marked germicidal effect. By using 
care, the hair will not appear so oily and the results will 
be excellent. 

In talking to your patient do not promise wonders. 
Insist upon at least three months' work IN ANY CASE. 
Reflect that the average healthy growth of hair is only about 
six inches a year. Therefore, if stimulation does bring 
about a new growth it can hardly be perceived inside of 
three or four months, while a year's treatment is none too 
long for difficult cases. 

Don't worry if the first few treatments seem to increase 
the hair loss. Often the manipulation will aid the old hair 
in dropping out, but by the same token it will also aid the 
new hair in coming quickly. 

Always refer difficult cases to a physician and then if 
he so decides you may work under his direction. 



290 THE SKIN 

Ringworm, itch, favus, and sycosis will be frequently 
encountered, but one should never be anxious to treat such 
cases as there is always danger of infection not only for 
yourself, but also a chance that you may infect your other 
patients. 

In acute scalp diseases, where there is a complaint of 
much irritation, examine carefully to see if this trouble may 
not be caused by the presence of pediculosis. 

Remember that it is rarely necessary to cut the hair in 
order to successfully treat obstinate scalp diseases. 

Avoid any unnecessary responsibility. The more you 
know, the less you will think you know. Limit your work 
to just the cases you feel you can care for successfully and 
always refer anything of a doubtful character to a physician. 

Don't criticize. Remember the other operator may be 
just as sincere as you are. The woman who is absolutely 
and always and without any shadow of a doubt successful 
would be too wonderful to be true. 

Above all, in every treatment of any kind of trouble 
be scrupulously clean and thus limit the chances for an 
infection. 



CHAPTER XXX 

SCALP TREATMENTS HOW TO GIVE THEM FOR RESULTS 

Although various treatments have been suggested after 
each form of scalp trouble mentioned, but little stress has 
been placed on the best method of giving the every day work. 

Many times people suffering from hair loss positively 
refuse to consult a physician and insist on having scalp 
treatments with their shampoos, hence a system of using 
certain antiseptics, some form of stimulation, and a general 
method of procedure is really a necessity. 

It has been agreed that most scalp trouble originates 
from germs, and these invaders continue to make trouble 
unless they are dislodged by some vigorous action. 

Oily substances penetrate the follicles easily and with 
them carry the medications necessary to discourage further 
trouble. 

Many times where scalps are unusually tender very mild 
antiseptics are necessary and for this reason the antiseptic 
oil has been selected. 

It penetrates, heals, stimulates, and yet rarely if ever 
irritates. It may be used absolutely pure with no injury, 
but in the majority of cases it is better to add it to four 
parts of pure castor oil. 

The idea in using the castor oil is to select an oil with 
some curative properties, as well as one that is decidedly 
softening to the hair — for in many scalp troubles, the hair 
becomes harsh and dry. 

Therefore, if you would obtain the best results always 
mix the antiseptic oil with the castor oil and do not try 

291 



292 THE SKIN 

something "just as good," recommended by some one who 
knows nothing of the subject. 

The oils may be mixed ready for use, but should not 
be heated and then poured back. Hence, only pour from 
the bottle enough for each treatment, and keep tightly corked 
the rest of the time. 

HOT OIL TREATMENT 

This treatment is given for the relief of itching scalps, 
seborrhoea sicca and hair loss. When the hair is very dry 
the application should be made down the entire length. 

For the scalp alone, about two tablespoonsful are neces- 
sary. 

In aggravated cases, the pure oil is used. 

As conditions improve, the mixture may be made less 
until finally the original proportion of one to four is em- 
ployed. 

Any scalp is benefited by an occasional treatment. 

The procedure is as follows : 

First, go over the entire scalp with a pledget made by 
wrapping gauze around cotton saturated with follicle lotion. 

Next, pour two tablespoonsful of the mixed oils into a 
small enamel dish and heat. Apply this to the scalp as hot 
as it can be borne. If the hair is very dry, use more oil and 
apply down the entire length. 

For ordinary cases bear in mind the mixture is made 
by adding one part of antiseptic oil to four of castor oil. 

For stubborn cases equal parts should be applied. 

For extreme cases the pure oil may be used. 

As soon as the application has been made, a treatment 
with the prismatic ray, lasting for about fifteen minutes, 
should be given, using for this purpose the special scalp 
electrode. 



nmBsua 



THE SKIN 293 

If the patient cannot allow the oil to remain on over 
night, the head is then enveloped in a towel for from thirty 
minutes to an hour and then a shampoo is given. 

In very difficult cases it is well to allow the mixture 
to remain on over night. 

Hot oil treatments should be given once a week in bad 
cases, and once in two weeks for ordinary conditions. 

TREATMENT FOR DRY SCALPS AND SEBORRHOEA 

Begin the course of treatments with hot oil treatment, 
continuing the use of the oil down the entire length of the 
hair, and leaving it on all night. 

Next day cleanse with follicle lotion, give manipula- 
tion with faradism for about fifteen minutes and then use 
tonic for dry scalp with negative galvanic current for the 
same length of time. 

If the scalp is also covered with small scaly deposit, 
apply scalp food next, and force in with blue light. 

If hair is dry and brittle, and there is much hair loss, 
use tar tonic and the blue light. 

For home treatment, alternate the use of the tonic 
for dry scalp and tar tonic, using the scalp pomade for 
office treatments or vice versa. 

Sometimes work is necessary for more than six months 
before a radical improvement is noticed — and of course the 
bodily condition will also have a bearing on this question. 

Where there is a wasting disease, or where the patient 
is extremely nervous, a longer time will be necessary. 

PRISMATIC RAY TREATMENTS FOR DRY SCALP 

The same procedure is followed, only using the pris- 
matic ray in place of the faradic current and applying the 
sedative current in the beginning of the treatments. 



294 THE SKIN 

In any case it must be remembered the use of the tar 
tonic should follow the use of the prismatic ray, and should 
not be used with the current at any time, owing to the 
danger of causing a conflagration. 

The heat generated from the electrode and the tiny 
sparks that sometimes fly make it impossible to use any 
substance in which there is alcohol without some danger 
of igniting it and thus scorching the hair. 

ECZEMATOUS SCALPS 

Very often, especially in the smaller cities, physicians 
will send to the cosmeticians patients who are suffering 
from an eczematous condition of the scalp in which a 
shampoo is absolutely prohibited, until the scalp is better. 

The following treatment will absolutely help almost 
any condition : 

Cleanse the scalp by applying follicle lotion on gauze 
pledgets, by pressing gently over each section. 

If there are spots, exuding serum, after this cleansing 
process, hold the flat electrode of the prismatic ray some 
distance from the spots and gently spark the surface for 
about five minutes. 

Then apply pure antiseptic oil to the parts affected, 
using the flat electrode over entire surface with a very low 
current. 

Repeat this treatment every other day until surface 
is healed, and then shampoo with eggs and bran water, 
applying the oil immediately afterwards. 

In some instances, it is necessary to use nothing but 
this mild shampoo, for some months, continuing with the 
antiseptic oil until condition is entirely relieved. 



THE SKIN 295 

FALLING HAIR 

Where there is an excessive hair loss, without any 
apparent physical cause, nothing has given quicker results 
than the use of the tar tonic. 

After cleansing the scalp as usual with follicle lotion, 
and giving finger manipulation with the faradic current, the 
stimulating current of the prismatic should be used for 
fully fifteen minutes and after this the tar tonic applied. 

In order to avoid getting it all over the hair, it may 
be applied with cotton fastened to the end of the orange 
wood stick, or by means of a special applicator. 

The tonic should also be used at home and a shampoo 
taken once a week until conditions are much better. 

Where excessive dandruff accompanies this loss of 
hair, the scalp pomade and tar tonic may be alternated. 

The remarkable results attendant on the use of this 
antiseptic, not only in checking hair loss, but also in pro- 
moting a new growth of hair, have been so remarkable that 
it is not at all difficult to persuade patients to overlook the 
odor and persist in frequent applications. 

ITCHING SCALPS 

Very frequently one finds instances in which there is 
such an intolerable itching of the scalp that the patient is 
nearly wild. 

Oftentimes this condition is an accompaniment of 
psoriasis, and the victims are really beside themselves for 
want of relief. 

For this purpose nothing has been found better than 
the application of the scalp pomade and the use of the 
prismatic ray. 

In very severe instances where there is an excessive 



296 T H E S K I N 

deposit, it is not well to apply the finger tips to the scalp 
at all. Hence the advantage of this treatment : 

Cleanse the scalp with follicle lotion applied by means 
of gauze, being careful to "dab" and not "rub" it on to the 
surface. 

Then apply scalp pomade in the same manner. Use 
the blue light for forcing it in and then use the prismatic 
ray, sedative current. 

If possible give these treatments daily for six days 
and then shampoo, applying the scalp pomade again and 
always insisting that itching spots be coated with this 
substance once a day until conditions are better. 

While a cure cannot be promised, relief has in every 
instance followed this treatment. 

TREATMENT FOR OILY SCALPS AND SEBORRHOEA 

The trouble is so obstinate that it requires much time 
and patience to produce results. Hence the idea of giving 
treatments at least twice a week, and alternating with the 
preparations used. 

Begin with the hot oil treatment, to which one-half 
spoonful of scalp pomade has been added. 

The next treatment will require the following pro- 
cedure : 

Cleanse with follicle lotion and manipulate with the 
finger tips, using faradic current. 

Then apply tonic for oily scalp and use negative gal- 
vanic current for about fifteen minutes. 

Use tar tonic and force it in with the radio bell. If the 
patient can not allow this mixture to remain on over night, 
shampoo and instruct her to use the oily hair tonic one 
night and the tar tonic the next night, rubbing well with the 
finger tips. 



T H E S K I N 297 

For the third treatment, give manipulations as usual, 
use negative current with tonic, use positive galvanic cur- 
rent, then apply scalp pomade and blue light. 

Fourth treatment, give hot oil with scalp food as before 
and continue in the same method till the condition has so 
improved that it will be only necessary to use the tonic for 
oily scalps at home. 

Naturally the patient objects to the oily condition and 
the use of antiseptics of so decided an odor, but results soon 
quiet these objections, so on this point be firm. 

The use of shampooline at home after the use of any 
of the oils will entirely remove the sticky appearance and 
thus do away with much trouble. 

PRISMATIC RAN' TREATMENT FOR OILY SCALPS 

When this form of electricity is used as an adjunct to 
the treatment, and in fact in nearly every case it is neces- 
sary, the use of the faradic current should be omitted. 

After the scalp pomade has been applied the stimulat- 
ing current may also be used with the flat or, better, the 
special scalp electrode for about ten minutes until the scalp 
tingles. 

Should any irritation result from the use of this stimu- 
lation and the antiseptics, omit the use of any preparations 
but the follicle lotion until the scalp is normal, and then use 
the tonic for oily scalps and positive galvanism, followed by 
the antiseptic oil alone, full strength, next two treatments. 

Where the tar tonic is to be used, the prismatic ray 
must be applied first, and the tonic afterward. 

REMOVING SNARLS FROM HAIR 

After a protracted illness, frequently the hair becomes 
so snarled that nothing but the scissors seems to afiford any 
way of again using a comb. 



298 THE SKIN 

Many women dread the loss of hair in this manner, so 
usually the cosmetician is sought in the hope of avoiding 
such a calamity. 

Two remedies have proved efficacious, but both entail 
hours of work. 

The one is the use of a powder obtained from any drug 
store, called Lycopodium. This is sprinkled over the hair 
very lavishly. Then beginning at the ends and combing up 
gradually, with a coarse comb, the work is commenced and 
continued until finally the hair is in normal condition. 

If the patient seems too weak to stand all the treatment 
in one day, the process may be continued for several days 
until the work is finished. 

Another method is to soak the scalp and hair with olive 
oil and attempt the same thing, using the comb from the 
ends of the hair and always attempting to avoid any undue 
pulling. 



CHAPTER XXXI 

HOW TO FURNISH THE TREATMENT ROOMS 

One very decided rule that may be applied to the fur- 
nishing of all treatment rooms is that nothing but the really 
necessary articles should ever be included in the list. 

Each room or booth should be equipped completely so 
that there may be no necessity for the operator to rush 
wildly about in search of the necessary electrode or indis- 
pensable something else that is always in the "other booth." 

Tiled floors, or at least linoleum, should be used for 
sanitary reasons, and either sanitas or painted walls. No 
decorations of any kind should be found in the operating 
department. 

While the careful operator, especially if she treats 
people of both sexes, will avoid the appearance of having 
too much privacy, still it is absolutely necessary for the 
success of any business that each booth be screened or cur- 
tained from observation. 

Xo matter how intimate two friends may be, they often 
will avoid going to the same person for treatment simply 
because they feel there is not enough privacy and one does 
not wish the other person to know just what her treatment 
may be. 

Whether it is in facial treatments, scalp work, hair 
dressing or shampooing, this rule prevails, for in any of 
this work there is always more or less of a chance to see 
whether there is much of the natural woman or whether 
most of her is due to art. 

299 



300 T H E S K I N 

The only part of the work about which there is abso- 
lutely no timidity is manicuring. Therefore, when the space 
is at all crowded the reception room may easily and wisely 
be used for the manicure tables, thus arranging for more 
privacy in the other departments. 

One of the most successful and popular women in 
business of whom I know never loses a patron, because 
even from the first day that she started her shop she never 
addressed anyone by name when they entered the reception 
room. 

She would say, "How do you do ?" and assign the per- 
son to a booth. The operator, also equally well trained, did 
not converse, and as a consequence the next neighbor could 
not know who the newcomer might be. 

This desire for privacy is so widespread and universal 
that no one can possibly make a mistake by arranging to 
gratify the wishes of the people in this respect. 

Many places of business have not been prosperous 
simply because the owners did not realize this fact, and as 
a consequence never secured the same patron twice. 

The cost of the equipment is a matter of taste and 
judgment. Prices vary so that it would be unsafe for any- 
one to give, as I did some years ago, a list of the prices 
then in vogue. In the meantime, the manufacturer changed 
his prices, and as a consequence I was subjected to so many 
different kinds of grief in trying to explain why the dif- 
ference existed that I then and there resolved never again 
to give even an approximate estimate, but, on the other 
hand, to adhere to generalities, for they are much safer. 

For a small shop, at least six dozen each of the three 
sized towels should be used — the Turkish, second size, and 
the small hand towels used for the manicure table. 



THE SKIN 301 

A dozen at least of the cloths to protect the clothes from 
the hair should be made and as many for the facial 
department. 

Three dozen head bands will be sufficient because they 
may be laundered each day and so one does not run out of 
this supply. 

Two rubber shampoo capes will be invaluable to prevent 
the shoulders of the patient from becoming damp. 

Aprons should be supplied liberally, as there is always 
some trouble in getting them from the laundry. By using 
a little care in this respect and securing at least nine for 
each operator, one should always be presentable. 

In giving the suggestions for fitting the various rooms, 
my idea is not to frighten the prospective woman in business 
but to give her a definite plan from which to work. 

If the young woman who reads this has only one small 
room in which she manages a reception portion, with all 
other departments in the various corners behind screens, 
she should not be discouraged but work away with an idea 
of some time getting things as she wants them and :is they 
should be. 

From the smallest beginnings often spring the greatest 
undertakings. 

No matter what the difficulties may seem to be, I am 
positive that with ability to do and faith to keep on, no 
impediment will be found too great to be overcome. 

To become strong the individual needs something to 
fight, something to overcome. Muscle was never developed 
from idleness. 

So, whether the hindrances are financial, mental or 
social, resolution will make them vanish if the effort is made 
persistently. 



302 THE SKIN 

In the fitting up of the room for facial work, elec- 
trolysis will of course be considered as a part of that 
department. 

The massage chair and stool, whenever possible, should 
be of the kind that will allow the operator to sit while she 
does her work. The back of the chair should be so planned 
that she can get at the back of the head and neck of the 
patient as a part of every facial treatment. 

The ordinary Morris chair does not make this pro- 
cedure possible. 

The battery may vary in cost from $15.75 to $5°> de- 
pending upon the desires of the operator and the voltage of 
the current. 

Whenever it is possible the wall battery will be found 
excellent, as it is always ready for work. 

In general this equipment will be found all that is 
required. 

FOR FACIAL ROOM 

1 massage chair and stool. 

1 small white table for jars of cotton and gauze, cream, 
instruments, etc. This table must have a glass top with 
railing, and glass shelves. It should also be arranged so 
irrigating apparatus can be attached, thus saving floor 
space. 

1 cabinet sterilizer for instruments when not in use. 

1 small sterilizer for instruments when in use (contain- 
ing formalin solution). 

1 battery. 

1 prismatic ray. 

1 apparatus for colored lights. 

1 irrigating apparatus for use with electrolytic cup. 

1 mirror. 



THE SKIN 303 

In addition to the large pieces will be found the small 
electrodes, including carbon handles, articles for cataphore- 
sis, needle holder, electric needles and all the small items. 

If one wishes to equip two facial booths, this list will 
only need to be doubled. 

FOR SHAMPOO ROOM 

If the bowl is not already installed, of course it will 
be necessary to have one placed. In addition to this hot and 
cold water will be necessities. If the city water is not 
heated by the building, a tank for this purpose may be 
procured and placed by the side of the bowl. In addition 
there will be necessary : 

i hair dryer (standard always preferable with good 
motor). 

i shampoo board or one chair and board. 

I tank for holding liquid shampoo. 

I cabinet sterilizer for holding brushes. 

I small sterilizer (holding formalin solution). 

I mirror. 

i dressing table with gas stove for* heating curling 
iron, etc. 

A few small brushes for use on the hair. Aside from 
this nothing else will be necessary. 

Care should be taken to secure the best dryer. Small, 
cheap portable ones are not only far from practical but 
they take the operator's time and make it impossible to 
manipulate the head while hair is being dried. 

FOR THE HAIR DRESSING ROOM 

As this room will also be used for scalp treatments, the 
battery and prismatic ray with necessary electrodes should 




A Practical Facial and Shampoo Booth Combined 



THE SKIN 305 

be a part of the equipment, also the colored lights. In 
addition, nothing more is necessary excepting the dressing 
table with arrangements for curling iron and gas heater. 
Of course, if the electric iron is used, no gas connection 
will be necessary. 

When one is a bit limited for space it is well to arrange 
a dressing table in the shampoo room as mentioned. The 
first person that is shampooed can ha ^e her hair dried and 
be taken right to the hair-dressing room. The next one can 
remain in the shampoo room after the shampoo and have 
the same work done there. 

HAIR WEAVING DEPARTMENT 

No part of this work should ever be visible to the 
patrons. It is always disagreeable in appearance and it is 
almost impossible to keep the hair from flying about. 
Hence, it should always be done in a partitioned space 
adapted particularly to this purpose. 

CHIROPODY ROOM 

Whenever it can be arranged, this work should be done 
in a booth especially arranged for it. A small platform is 
necessary. On this will be placed a comfortable arm chair, 
thus allowing the patient to be comfortable while undergoing 
treatment. 

A high stool of peculiar pattern will be furnished, upon 
which the patient's feet will rest. The operator will be 
seated on another low stool so that she can work easily. 

In addition to the regulation instruments, there will be 
special apparatus for sterilizing by heat, with a wall cabinet 
for holding the various medicines necessary, and a sta- 
tionary cabinet for the instruments when not in use. 



306 THE SKIN 

MANICURE DEPARTMENT 

As mentioned before, this department of work can be 
carried on in the reception room if necessary. 

Either good light from the windows or plenty of artifi- 
cial light will be necessary, so plans should be made 
accordingly. Aside from the regular instruments nothing 
but manicure tables, chairs and stools and the glass dishes 
for containing soap and water will be requisite. 

Sterilizers have been mentioned frequently because they 
are a necessity in each booth. One can hardly have too 
many, although it is very easy not to have enough. 

Before furnishing rooms or planning for booths the 
floor space should be planned carefully so that water, gas 
and electric connections may be made economically and 
wisely. 

When it is possible to have running water in each booth 
it is very desirable, but it is not necessary. However, in 
all of this work an effort should be made to avoid running 
through another department to get water, so at least one 
small tank for general supply should be arranged in addition 
to that obtained in shampoo room. 

The reception room will, of course, be furnished 
according to the individual taste. 

Here, too, it is well to have nothing unnecessary in the 
way of drapings, though, of course, window hangings are 
always allowable. 

A writing desk for the convenience of patrons, table 
covered with books or magazines for those who are obliged 
to wait, and several comfortable chairs will be considered 
necessities. 

Display cabinets containing articles for sale should also 
be added to this room. 



THE SKIN 307 

The cost of furnishing varies exactly with the kind of 
an outfit purchased and the ideas of the person who is 
buying it. 

It is said, and truthfully, that in no other business is 
there so great an income in proportion to the first 
investment. 

There is never an utterly dead season in this work, for 
at all times of tlje year someone needs something done. 

There is never an old stock to be considered worthless 
or at least very greatly reduced in value unless it is sold at 
once or during the season. 

In fact, an entire business can be started, including 
even the cost of tuition, for very little more than it costs to 
buy the elaborate fittings in some of the large millinery 
shops. 

Many women who have been suddenly thrown on their 
own resources have entered this work, as a last resort, only 
to find" that in a few years they were able to replace the 
original capital, had paid all living expenses, and had a nice 
bank balance running up into the thousands besides. 

The demand today is for the trained operator who has 
been willing to spend the time and money to secure the 
proper foundation. Given the necessary instruction and the 
proper equipment in the town where there is a reasonable 
demand for the work, success is not a possibility but a 
positive certainty. 

N. B. — It has been the aim of the author to make this 
book a practical system of instruction for all women who 
wish to use the newest and most approved methods. Any 
points that are not clearly understood will be cheerfully 
explained to all who will enclose a stamped and addressed 
envelope, sending to EMILY LLOYD, 

1404 Mailers Bldg., Chicago, III. 



INDEX 

PAGE 

Acne 198 

Acne, Causes of 203 

Acne, Rosacea 208 

Acne, The Serum Treatment of 205 

Acne, Treatment of 204 

Acne, Varieties of 199 

Advice to Patient 264 

After the Massage 151 

After Treatment 109 

Aid to Shampoo 255 

Amperage 66 

Anaesthetic, A Good Local 126 

Anaesthetic, Blue Light as an 54 

Andirosis 40 

Antiseptic, Most Practical 27 

Antiseptics that May Be Used 24 

Applying the Powder 160 

Astringent Mask Treatment 240 

Bathing . . , . 211 

Battery 61 

Battery, Galvanic and Faradic 62-72 

Battery, How to Select 68 

Battery, Making a Galvanic 91 

Battery, Simplest Forms of 60 

Binding Posts 63 

Bi-Polar Method 120 

Blackheads or Comedones 39 

Bleaching, Face, Instantaneous 130 

Bleaching the Skin 128 

Blue Light as an Anaesthetic 54 

Bromidrosis . 41 

Brow, Scarred 114 

Care of the Scalp 262 

Cataphoresis 125 

Causes of Acne 203 

Chiropody Room 305 

Chloasma, Treatment of 223 

Chromidrosis 41 

Circuit, The ^ 

Circuit, Manner of Completing I0 5 

309 



310 INDEX 

PAGE 

Cleansing of the Hands 31 

Colored Lights, Use of '. 48 

Combined Current , 88 

Comedones or Blackheads 39 

Conductors 64 

Constipation 213 

-Contents, Table of io-n-12-13 

Controlling the Current, Manner of 67 

Corium, The 36 

Cosmetics, The Proper Use of 157 

Current, Combined 88 

Current, Faradic 81 

Current, Faradic, in Scalp Treatment 87 

Current, Faradic, Not Indicated in Some Cases 87 

Current for Destruction of Moles 118 

Current, Galvanic 90 

Current, How to Detect Galvanic 92 

Current, Manner of Controlling 67 

Current, Manner of Measuring 66 

Current, Strength of 106 

Danger of Infection 123 

Dedication 6 

Depilatory, Proper Use of ill 

Destruction of Moles 118 

Diet 211 

Dimple, Formation of 181 

Diseases of Hair and Scalp 270 

Do the Hairs Return 109 

Ear, Excessively Large 179 

Ear, Micotia or Undeveloped 180 

Ear, Reconstruction of 179 

Ear, Repair of Clefts in External 180 

Ears, Outstanding 177 

Ecorchement Process '. 227 

Eczema 217 

Eczema, Varieties of 218 

Eczematous Scalps 294 

Effects Produced by Faradization 84 

Egg Shampoo 254 

Electricity 57 

Electricity, Forms of 60 

Electric Needle, Use of « 97 

Electrodes 64-89 

Electrolysis, Principle of 100 

Electrolysis, Single and Multiple Needle 99 

Electrolyptic Cup, Solutions Used with 136 

Electrolyptic Cup, Use of 137 



INDEX 311 

PAGE 

Epidermis, The 34 

Equipment 100 

Ether 59 

Exceptions to the Rule 108 

Excising a Scar 181 

Exercise 213 

Extremely Large Mouth 188 

Eace Bleaching Instantaneous 130 

Facial Massage 141 

Facial Room 302 

Facial Treatments 239 

Falling Hair 295 

Earache Current, The 81 

Faradic Current in Ma-sage Treatments 86 

Faradic Current in Scalp Treatment 87 

Earache Current Not Indicated in Some Cases 87 

Faradic and Galvanic Battery 62-72 

Faradization, Effects Produced by General 84 

Finishing the Treatment 161 

Flabby Skins 173 

Flabby and Withered Skins 235 

Folds, Bags and Wrinkles of the Skin about the Eyes 172 

Forcing Into the Tissues an Anaesthetic 126 

Formation of Dimple 181 

Forms of Electricity 60 

Freckles 229 

Galvanic Battery, Making a 91 

Galvanic Current 90 

Galvanic Current. to Delect 92 

Galvanic and Faradic Battery 62-72 

Galvanism, Negative, Properties of 95 

Galvanism. Positive, Properties of 94 

Gland-, Skin and Their Diseases 38 

Glands, Sudoriparous 39 

Hair-Dressing Room 303 

Hair, Falling 295 

Hair, Singeing the 257 

Hair-Weaving Department 305 

Hands. Cleansing of the 31 

Hemadrosis 42 

Hints to Operators 288 

Home Treatment 207 

Hot Oil Treatment 292 

How to Detect Polarity 93 

How to Detect the Galvanic Current 92 

How to Furnish Treatment Rooms 299 



312 INDEX 

PAGE 

How to Give Massage Movements „ 147 

How to Give a Shampoo 257 

How to Secure Confidence 106 

How to Select a Battery • 68 

Hyperdrosis ' 40 

Ideal Woman in Business 15 

Illustrations, List of 14 

Itching Scalps . 295 

Instantaneous Face Bleaching 130 

Insulators 64 

Introduction 7-8-9 

Lavender Lotion 153 

Length of Treatment no 

Lesions of the Skin 44 

Lesions, Secondary 45 

Light, Blue, As an Anaesthetic 54 

Lights, Colored, Use of 48 

Lips, Thick 186 

Lips, Thin 187 

Lobule, Adherent and Undeveloped 180 

Lobule, Reduction of Size of 179 

Local Treatments 205 

Lotion, Lavender 153 

Making a Galvanic Battery 91 

Manicure Department 306 

Manner of Completing Circuit 105 

Manner of Controlling Current 67 

Manner of Measuring Current 66 

Massage, After the 151 

Massage, Face, Preparation of 133 

Massage,. Facial 141 

Massage Movements, How to Give 147 

Massage Produces These Results 143 

Mcintosh Galvanic and Faradic Battery 62-72 

Measuring the Current, Manner of 66 

Methine, Using 128 

Method, Bi-Polar 120 

Method of Procedure 104 

Milia 38 

Milia, Treatment of 196 

Miliaria or Sudaminia 42 

Miliaria Papulosa or Prickly Heat 42 

Moles, Removal of 116 

Mouth, The 185 

Mouth, Extremely Large 188 

Multiple Needle Electrolysis 99 



INDEX 313 

PAGE 

Naevi and Treatment, Varieties of 120 

Needle, Electric, Use of 97-1 12 

Needle, Selection of the 101 

Negative Galvanism, Properties of 95 

Nose Operations 185 

Nose, Reduction of Hump or Roman 183 

Nose, Tip-Tilted 183 

Nose with Bulbous Tip 184 

Ohm 65 

Oily and Stippled Skins 231 

Operations, Nose 185 

Operators, Hints to 288 

Operators, Painless 119 

Painless Operators 119 

Plain Shampoo 252 

Polarity 83-92 

Polarity, How to Detect 93 

Poles 63 

Port Wine Marks, Removal of 1 16 

Positive Galvanism, Properties of 94 

Posts, Binding 63 

Powder, Applying the 160 

Practical Antiseptic, The Most 27 

Practical Application of Rules Governing Galvanism 96 

Preparation of Face for Massage 133 

Prickly Heat or Miliaria Papulosa 42 

Principle of Electrolysis 100 

Prismatic Ray Treatments for Dry Scalp 293 

Procedure, Method of 104 

Properties of Negative Galvanism 95 

Properties of Positive Galvanism 94 

Proper Use of a Depilatory, The 1 1 1 

Reconstruction of the Ear 179 

Reduction of the Hump or Roman Nose 183 

Reduction of Size of Lobule 179 

Relief of Neuralgic Pain 128 

Removal of Moles, Port Wine Marks, Warts and Wens 116 

Removing the Fold Above the Eye 172 

Removing Snarls from Hair 297 

Repair of Clefts or Fissures in External Ear. 180 

Rouge, Selecting a 159 

Rules for the Operator no 

Rules Governing Galvanism, Practical Application of 96 

Sallow or Muddy Skins 227 

Scalp, Care of the 262 



314 INDEX 

PAGE 

Scalp, Common Diseases of 270 

Scalp Treatments 291 

Scalp Treatment, Faradic Current in ,. 87 

Scalps, Itching 295 

Scaly or Dry Skins 233 

Scar, Excising 181 

Scarred Brow, The 114 

Seborrhoea 38 

Secondary Lesions 45 

Selecting a Rouge 159 

Selection of the Needle, The 101 

Serum Treatment for Acne, The 205 

Shampoo, Aid to 255 

Shampoo, Egg 254 

Shampoo, How to Give 257 

Shampoo, Liquid, Soapless 254 

Shampoo, Plain 252 

Shampoo Room 303 

Shampoo, Strong 253 

Shampoo, Tar 253 

Shampooing After a Hot Oil Treatment 259 

Shampooing Before a Hair Dye 258 

Shampooing Sticky or Matted Hair 259 

Shampooing the Hair , 251 

Simplest Form of Battery 60 

Singeing the Hair 257 

Single Needle Electrolysis 99 

Skin, Bleaching the 128 

Skin and Its Divisions, The '. 33 

Skin Glands and Their Diseases , 38 

Skin Grafting 181 

Skin, Lesions of the , 44 

Skin, Sallow and Muddy , , 227 

Skins, Flabby 173 

Skins, Flabby and Withered 235 

Skins, Oily and Stippled 231 

Skins, Scaly and Dry 233 

Small Pox Pittings 173 

Soapless Shampoo Liquid 254 

Solutions Used with Electrolyptic Cup 136 

Sterilization 22-101 

Strength of Current 106 

Strong Shampoo 253 

Subcutis, The 37 

Sudaminia or Miliaria 42 

Sudoriparous Glands, The 39 

Summary 55 

Sunburn 237 



INDEX 315 

PAGE 

Tan 237 

Tar Shampoo 253 

Tattooing and the Electric Needle 112 

Tattooing 113 

Tattooing to Aid Apparent Width of Month 188 

Thick Lips 186 

Thin Lips 187 

Things to Remember 260 

Tip-Tilted Nose, The 183 

Tired-Eye Treatment 242 

Tissue Builders, Use of 170 

Treatment, Astringent Mask 240 

Treatment, Finishing the 161 

Treatment for Dry Scalps and Seborrhoea 293 

Treatment, Hot Oil 292 

Treatment, Length of no 

Treatment of Acne 239 

Treatment of Blackheads and Milia 190 

Treatment of Chloasma 223 

Treatment Rooms, How to Furnish 299 

Treatment, The Tired-Eye 242 

Treatment, Wrinkle 241 

Treatments, Facial 239 

Treatments, Local 205 

Treatments, Scalp 291 

Uridrosis 42 

Use of Colored Lights 48 

Use of Electric Needle 97 

Use of Electrolyptic Cup 133 

Use of Tissue Builders 170 

Using Methine 128 

Varieties of Acne 199 

Varieties of Eczema 218 

Varieties of Naevi and Treatment 120 

Voltage 65 

Warts and Wens, Removal of 116 

When the Disease is Fully Developed 206 

Wrinkles, Cause and Treatment 163 

Wrinkles, Deep 168 



McINTOSH NO. 5 VIOLET 
= — =RAY OUTFIT 

Success in Scalp Treatment 

The violet ray is the best and surest means of invigorating the 
scalp^ by increasing the flow of blood, as well as its germicidal 
effect in destroying the parasite which causes baldness. A healthy 
glow is experienced as soon as the electrode comes in contact with 
the scalp and all irritation is at once relieved. 




Price, complete, as shown, including facial and scalp electrode, cataphoresis 
electrode, fuiguration point electrode, metal 
and our new non-sparking electrode handle 



electrode, fulguration point electrode, metal handle, two cords <fcC2C f\f\ 



Skin Eruptions Relieved 

These unsightly eruptions and discolorations known as acne 
rosacea and acne vulgaris are quickly relieved by the stimulating 
properties of the violet ray, which induces a healthy circulation 
and hastens elimination of waste products. 



Moles and Warts Permanently Destroyed 

By the application of a tiny spark by means of the fulguration point 
electrode these blemishes can be quickly and permanently eradi- 
cated. This method is quicker and less painful than electrolysis, 
as one or two sittings usually suffice. 



Complete Set of Attachments 

Each outfit includes the facial and scalp electrode, a cataphoresis 
electrode for forcing in oils, the fulguration point electrode with 
three points, a metal handie, two cords and our new non-sparking 
electrode handle, the only handle that will protect operator and 
patient from an accidental spark during treatment. 



Perfect Regulation 

A special switch enables one to select "High Frequency ,, for scalp 
and other work where a strong current is required; or "Low Fre- 
quency" where a soft, sedative current is required in work over 
sensitive parts. The strength of either current may be graduated 
perfectly by adjusting the discharging rod to permit a short or 
long spark as desired. 



Durable Construction 

The outfit is constructed of the best materials by skilled labor and 
is given a severe test in the factory, thus enabling us to guarantee 
it against defect for one year, after which a long period of service 
may be relied upon. 



Handsome Finish 

The metal parts, all brightly polished and lacquered, are mounted 
on a polished base and enclosed in a fine karatol covered case 
10xl5x6J/2 inches, containing a compartment for accessories 
at one end. 

Mcintosh Battery & Optical Co. 

322 W. Washington St. Chicago, 111. 



Stop That Leak in Your Profits 

Reduce Your Electrical Expense By Installing 

THE McINTOSH PORTABLE 
WALL PLATE 

The proprietor of every beauty parlor will appreciate an ap- 
paratus which will do away with the expense of renewing dry bat- 
teries and at the same time combine the advantages of a wall plate 
with an apparatus which is portable and can instantly be made use 
of in any part of the establishment. 




Price Complete, $60.00 

GIVES BETTER FACIAL AND SCALP WORK THAN A BAT- 
TERY. The strength of current being constant, you are assured 
of more uniform results. The voltage is perfectly controlled by 
the MacLagan Wire Rheostat and the current is measured by Mil- 
liamperemeter, insuring accurate results. 



WILL SAVE YOUR OPERATOR'S TIME. Instead of a lot of 
complicated switches it contains our Dial Current Selector, which 
shows the names of the various currents engraved on a dial. Simply 
turn the knob to the current desired and it is ready for use. 

USE IT IN ANY BOOTH AND THUS TRIPLE ITS EFFICIENCY. 
Instead of having a wall plate placed permanently in one booth 
you can use this in any booth and thus greatly increase your 
receipts. 

THE IDEAL RESIDENTIAL OUTFIT. The most convenient ar- 
rangement ever designed for outside work, as it can be used in 
any home having lighting current, either direct or alternating, 
and in places where no current is found you can fall back on 
the cells. 

WORKS ON THE ALTERNATING CURRENT AS WELL AS 
ON DIRECT. This is something entirely new. A very simple 
device contained in the case changes the alternating current into 
direct so that you get a perfect galvanic current. The Dial 
Selector automatically switches this device in circuit when used 
with alternating current; and turns it off when connected with 
direct current where it is not needed. 

IF YOU HAVE DIRECT CURRENT, you can get a perfectly 
graduated galvanic current as mild as you wish it or as strong as 
you desire and a faradic current perfectly controlled. 

IF YOU HAVE ALTERNATING CURRENT, there is a surprise 
in store for you. You can not only get the above but you can get 
THE SINUSOIDAL CURRENT, the most pleasant and agreeable 
massage current ever devised, which the most advanced physicians 
are employing and which has created a great sensation in medical 
circles. When once you have tried the sinusoidal current for 
facial and scalp massages, you will use no other. Make it as mild 
as you wish it, no shocks and NO SOUND WHATSOEVER. 

IF YOU HAVE NO ELECTRIC CURRENT, there are six No. 4 
dry cells in the case, giving you ample strength for faradic cur- 
rent; also sufficient galvanic current for electrolysis. 

NO ELECTRICIAN NEEDED TO INSTALL. Simply screw the 
plug in the lamp socket and follow the simple directions for test- 
ing accompanying outfit and you will know in five seconds whether 
you have got direct current or alternating. Then just turn your 
Dial Selector to the proper point on dial and you get the results. 
Could anything be more simple? 

MOST COMPACT. The entire apparatus is put up in a neat 
leather finished case 9^x14^4x10 inches, weighing 25 lbs., with 
a substantial handle and a large compartment for accessories, con- 
taining sufficient room for cremes and lotions, and includes con- 
ducting cords, handles and sponge discs. 

Our catalog of Beauty Parlor Equipment will be sent upon request 

MciNTOSH BATTERY & OPTICAL CO. 

322 W. Washington St. Chicago, 111. 



Preparations Sold Exclusively 



by 



Marinello Shops 



Whitening Cream — Whitens. 
Tissue Builder — Nourishes. 
Lettuce Brand Cream — Cleanses. 
Acne Cream — Heals Eruptions. 
Motor Cream — Protects from Sun 

and Air. 
Scalp Pomade — Heals. 
Refining Powder — Used with Lotion. 
Wrinkle Paste — Used with Massage 

Treatment. 
Talcum Powder — Delicately Tinged 

and Perfumed. 
Acacia Balm — Liquid Powder — 

Whitens Instantly. 
Antiseptic and Bleaching Lotion — 

Whitens. 
Follicle Lotion — Soothes. 
Dry Hair Tonic — Stimulates. 
Oily Hair Tonic — Corrects. 
Tar Hair Tonic. 
Grey Hair Tonic. 
Face Powder — Protects. 
Methine Ointment — Bad Case of 

Acne. 
Geranium Jelly — Keeps Hands 

Smooth. 
Lily White Cream — For Hands. 
Rose Leaf Cream — For Hands. 
Nail Bleach — Removes Discolora- 

tions. 
Nail Cream — Softens. 
Nail Polish — Keeps Nails Bright. 
Foot Cream — Removes Burning Sen- 
sation. 
Foot Powder — Dust on Feet and 

into Shoes. 
Dry Rouge — Called Daylight. 
Liquid Rouge — Does not wash off. 
Stick Rouge — Raisin Vermeil. 
Depilatory — Removes Hair. 
Hair Restorer — Produces Natural 

Color. 



Marinello Soap — No Irritation. 

Tooth Paste — Cleansing the Teeth. 

Permanent Sachets — Perfuming Lin- 
ens. 

Hair Sachets — Perfuming Hair. 

Antiseptic Oil — For Oily Scalps. 

Methine Tincture — Reduces Inflam- 
mation. 

Eye Brow Pencils — Darkens Eye- 
brows. 

Water Cosmetique — Touches up Hair 
Fringing Face. 

Jeans Brilliantine — Imparts Gloss 
to Hair. 

Marcels Brilliantine — Imparts Gloss 
to Hair. 

Marcels Shampooline — Dry Sham- 
poo. 

Hair Whitener — Keeps Grey Hair 
free from Yellow tinges. 

Marinello Girl Perfume — 1 oz. Bottle. 

Vic Perfume — 1 oz. Bottle. 

Violet de Maurer Perfume — 1 oz. 
Bottle. 

Albertus Rose Perfume — 1 oz. Bot- 
tle. 

La Crosse Lilac Perfume — 1 oz. Bot- 
tle. 

Old English Lavender Perfume — 1 
oz. Bottle. 

Marinello Toilet Waters — Same 
Odors as Perfumes. 

Perspiration Powder — Prevents Odor. 

Phantom Cream — For Neck and 
Arms — Perspiration Proof. 

Paste Rouge — Dark; flat package; 
convenient for purse. 

Astringent Lotion — Used in giving 
the Astringent Mask. 

Astringent Powder — Used with As- 
tringent Lotion. 



THE WHITENING CREAM AND ACNE CREAM come in two 
strengths — Ordinary and Strong. 

FACE POWDER comes in seven shades — White, Cream, Light 
Pink, Flesh, Deep Pink, Brunette, and Blended. 

ACACIA BALM comes in three shades — White, Brunette and 
Flesh. 

PERMANENT SACHETS come in seven odors — La Trefle, Lotus, 
Tea Rose, Oriental, Lily-of-the-Valley, Lavender, and Marinello. 

HAIR SACHETS come in same odors as permanent sachets. Each 
odor in three shades for Blonde, Brunette and Grey Hair. 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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